Also hope they've put the on/off button in a more sensible place 🙄all their marketing bull about extensive lab testing and they've missed the obvious 😔
On / off button is on the Shimano remote no?
I’m genuinely interested in the cable thing. I’ve got it on my Wild and Occam LT. The only thing that is harder is changing the brakes over from UK to EU the first time, (after that you leave some extra length so you don’t have to change the sides of the cable exit). After that most things are easier. Changing an outer is much, much easier since you only need it to poke out through the head tube, rather that the horrible old system of finding the hole in the side tube. Also it’s so much quieter without cables rattling. I’m sure there are genuine reasons people hate them but I personally don’t see it.
There is some info about the new bike on the mailing list. New Rise?
Edit: just clicked and you need to sign up to see.
hi Doug (Simon S - see you in a week or so). I've not got a headset routed bike but internal routing is shit for everything except aesthetics. Pretty much every job is longer (ie more expensive if you're paying someone) and more faff. Changing the inner cable on a road bike this week took two of us with Katie lying on the floor under the bike with a pair of tweezers. Fully routed internals (like my Mega and I think most Spec now) are a bit different - anything else is objectively worse than external.
Removing the dropper on the Rise requires dropping the motor. The loops over the motor to get to the main pivot bearing make that job difficult.
Headset routing (as I understand it) means replacing a headset bearing requires disconnecting all your cables (time/hassle/workshop labour). There are videos online showing serious scoring of carbon steerers on Road bikes from the split race (or spacer) needed by headset routed cables.
I've no issues with the original power button position on the Rise. It's close to the motor so short run!
Basically internal routing looks good in photos and catalogues and everyone needs to do it or their bikes won't looks as slick. But anyone who works on a bike hates it and it's bad for customers as it makes simple jobs expensive.
As internally routed bikes get older, or lower end models get fitted with internal cabling, there are going to be loads of bikes that aren't economic to repair because of the labour cost of dealing with internal routing. That's not good for customers or the bike industry.
Not many years ago you could fit a new, pre-bled, rear brake to a bike in a car park if you needed to (accepting a big loop of hose out front). I think on my old Nicolai I needed to remove the shock briefly (two bolts).
How long does that take on a Rise or a Rallon? (rant over - nothing against Orbea specifically)
But here you are talking about internal routing. Totally agree, it's a PITA for many things. What I'm questioning are the "Headset Routing" rants. I think that Headset Routing actually gets rid of, or minimises, some of the pains of internal routing by giving more space to fish the cables. External routing is definitely simpler but has it's own issues... it's also not something I see very often anymore. The steerer scoring I've heard people saying, but I have never seen it on any of our bikes and we ride a lot!
And for a non-internally routed dropper... who would go back to the external cables for the dropper? We saw so many of those damaged on our trips back in the day. Even with fully-routed internal cables, the dropper is a PITA because of the forced curves, especially with the motors and batteries on emtbs.
Headset bearing is true. Usually only the upper, change requires disconnecting all the cables. I'd estimate that job would take me two to three times as long as with non-headset routing. The stainless steel upper bearings on my bikes means that I hopefully won't have to do it though.
I was just genuinely curious about the hate for headset routing. Internally routing I can understand, but when I see people on pinkbike complaining about headset routing but saying nothing about internally routed it makes me wonder.
Fitting a brake? I would remove caliper and lever from the hose, fit new ones, and bleed. I'd be riding again in 15 minutes. (Done it loads!) If the cable was damaged it would take longer. On my Occam and Rise I think that it is fully routed front to rear, in theory I should be able to push the hose through from back to front, drop the fork a bit and pass it through. I only have to get it to the headtube and it's easy to reach. I´d definitely do that on my Occam, but probably wouldn't try with the Rise at the trailhead, I'd just ziptie a brake on the outside of the bike until I got to the garage.
But my question is, how long would it take with a standard "out the side" internal routing? AGES! I have done it a couple of times, using the correct parktool magnetic routing kit, and it is a nightmare.
Internal routing is a doddle with the right kit. I uses to dread it but now wouldnt be phased at all by it.
Built up my Dolan Commuter expecting internal routing to be a PITA. But bought a magneic kit off Amazon for less than £10 It actually took less than 10mins to route cables and hoses. Was amazed how simple it actual was . However, had i tried to do it without the kit theres no way i’ have been able to do it.
internal routing isn’t going to render old bikes obsolete. Plenty of other things like 26” wheels or rim brakes will do that way before internal routing does.
what i do wonder about internal headset routing is damage if its not done right. I’ve seen bodged internal routing cut theough a cank axle as the outer was resting on whilst axle was spinning.
The Rise is a pig though as the cables outers are trapped under little carbon ‘hoops’ in the downtube, so nothing slides through easily. I got the dropper cable out by tugging and wiggling, but feeding new brake lines through required a motor drop and battery removal.
You’re not dropping your motor with your Dolan though, are you? Or having to bleed the brakes.
nope to the motor but yep to the brakes. Discs both ends. And stupidly small routing holes too
New one is apparently a full power Bosch motor with ~625wH battery and 10mm extra travel either end.
So basically, a completely different bike.
The reduced power RS thing was one of the main reason I bought mine so a new one isntall that appealing to me but I'll bet that sort of thing is going to be pretty popular.
On the cable thing, I'd give anything for external routing. Need to bleed your brakes? Easy, just take the whole lot off. Need anew dropper cable? Easy, w minutes work. Internal does look better but it's so much worse,
First issue that i've had, a knackered charger. Sent it back to the shop and hopefully they're going to ship me out a new one, got ~70% battery left so going to play bettery roulette out with the lads this week!
Don't suppose anyone in South Manchester has a 2022 charger I could borrow for an hour or two 😀
bensFree Member
New one is apparently a full power Bosch motor with ~625wH battery and 10mm extra travel either end.So basically, a completely different bike.
That pretty much describes the Wild
I'd say the lower powered Bosch motor is more likely
Yeah, I did think that the lower power (SX?) would make more sense.
Some bloke I don't know told me all about the new one because his mates cousins brother works in shop that once sold something that looked like an Orbea. Something along those line anyway.
He was sure it was full power 😂
The reduced power RS thing
Is just in the software. Full power Shimano motor “turned down” is why the Rise works so well. You could do this with any bike with a full fat motor but smaller capacity battery.
@Scaled
"Don’t suppose anyone in South Manchester has a 2022 charger I could borrow for an hour or two"
Not S Manchester but a bit further afield (nr Whaley Bridge) if you're desperate?
Si
@scc999 thanks mate, if a new one doesn't turn up next week I might take you up on the offer. They're just too much fun to have em out of commission for too long.
That and the fact the only other (mountain) bike in the house is my large Rallon, and that has been stolen by my lanky 13 year old!
Full report on the new Rise.
Options look sorted.
Sborter seat tube at last, the old one was 508 or so in XL.
Yeah, looks like they've addressed some of the annoying things about the old one. Seat tube length and a lack of stiffness in the frame being my main problems.
Be interesting to see the weight of the lower spec models.
Not a fan of the frame brace on the 2025 model, will stick with my gen 1 with mullet set up and longer travel front and rear. Just need to get the badger to power up!
Just had an email from Leisure Lakes about the new Rise. Cheapest one seems to be £7200!
That’s another one off the ‘affordable’ list 😳
Carbon ones weee always a bit pricier, alu ones notbout tet
I'm with @hugoagogo
That frame brace is minging 😳is it there for a structural reason ? Makes keeping mine minus the brace and headset routed cables a no brainer 👍
@oldfart RobrideseMTB quotes the brace as increasing stiffness 22%. So probably removing 1mm of flex to make getting the bottle out a faff. Made me chuckle that Spesh left the brace off the newer Levo SLs and Orbea have added one in! 😆
Cheapest one seems to be £7200!
That’s another one off the ‘affordable’ list 😳
Yep it’s crazy. No one in the bike industry appears to realise bikes are stupidly expensive, maybe they all get paid too much ? Rob Rides called an £8.5k bike vfm/cheap. Wtf
They are getting heavier too which I find odd. The larger battery size is only just lighter than their full fat bike
An ‘affordable’ one is going to weigh more than there full fat Wild offering or very similar
Is more power also what’s needed on a light emtb ? My view on wanting a light emtb is that I still have to work a bit, but at least I can lift the bloody thing up over rocks / stiles etc.
Got to be sub 20kg for me
Its addressed some of the issues of the old Rise except for keeping the Shitmano motor
They'll be discounted soon enough, give it 6 months.
Rob Rides called an £8.5k bike vfm/cheap. Wtf
He is a bit out of touch with many peoples reality, and also makes a living from promoting ebikes, so hardly likely to be an impartial voice.
@johnnystorm so in other words marketing mumbo jumbo 🙄good job all that time in their Lab wasn't wasted 🙄
If the brace means that the seat tube is shorter and you can fit a longer dropper than I'm all for it.
I'm on a medium alloy frame and managed to fit a 180mm OneUp dropper. It's technically too long for the frame according to the blue paper and i can see why. The wiring for the charge socket is in the way. It still went in but it's not ideal.
With the 180 post, I've got probably 3 inches of post showing to get the right height for pedalling. Theoretically, I should be able to get a 210 post in but there isn't enough clearance so I'm stuck with a compromise.
I dislike compromise on a bike that cost £5k 😂
Sounds like the new one has added that brace but at the same time shortened the seat tube and kept the 'lectrics out the way for a decent seatpost insertion which i think is good.
The article up there only discusses the Ltd, M Team and M10 but other sites are suggesting there's a M20 version waiting in the wings with SLX level kit so there is a cheap(er) version. Also, the alloy version should be cheaper still at the expense of some weight.
I guess on price, it's Levo SL money and you can bet the Levo will be far lighter than the alloy rise.
I actually quite like the sound of the smaller battery version. 400ish wH battery and limited to 54nM in the RS profile would probably be perfect for 90% of my rides.
It looks like they've added proper sealing to the bearings too which is a definite plus. I won't be queuing up to swap my 22 model with a new one but I kinda like what they've done with it.
Bikes are crazy expensive. But people keep wanting the latest stuff! The cost of a suspension fork is amazing.
Having ridden the new one, the stiffness is instantly noticeable. The brace also lets them tune the stiffness for each size, probably an industry first, which means smaller people aren’t riding too stiff bikes and larger people aren’t on more flexible ones.
lots of people will go for the 420wh battery, it has decent range, and if they want add a range extender for longer rides. I’m heavier so prefer the bigger battery.
The new bike is the same weight as the old one. Mine is high 18kgs with DD rear and EXO+ front with the bigger battery. There is always going to be a decent separation in weight between Rise and a similarly priced Wild.
It definitely narrows the gap to the Wild tbough, not sure why you'd want the big battery version over the Wild with a better motor
It definitely narrows the gap. It always seems to do that with each launch, trail bikes get more capable and then the enduro bikes do the same!
Ive been riding them both back to back a lot. They are different beasts. And I don’t agree that Bosch is the best motor any more, last year I’d have agreed but the new tune on the Rise feels really natural, it suits the bike really well. The Bosch is more intrusive, it’s obviously there and pushing all the time. Which can be good if that is what you want!
Downhill the bikes are totally, totally different. Rise is more agile and playful. Wild is more about speed. It’s the difference between a very capable trail bike and a full on enduro bike. There is a reason there is a Wild competing at Fort William this weekend and not the Rise.
I think Rise LT is my bike. Big days on the mountains and fun on local enduro trails. But I’ll miss having a Wild, those days trying to push harder on the local DH tracks.
Yeah, obviously not eidsen the new Rise, but the Wild is prettty sleek and light for a full fat bike. As to Shimano over Bosch, its more the relia ility/serviceability side I'd be foxused on. I wouldnt buy aShimano bike.
So still waiting to see some real reviews ie not just people invited to the Orbea launch or in bed with Orbea
I Like the idea of the M10 LT with bigger battery but can’t see it being less than 20.5kg given I’ve read the weight of the Ltd is 19.5kg.
Has anyone seen real world weights published yet, Orbea appear keen for people not to share the weights
I have the current Rise and while I do not need longer travel than it has anymore, I would like a lighter coil shock - only because I prefer the way coil shocks ride.
Just had the dealer confirm my gen 1 Rise battery failure, it's taken 6 weeks to get a diagnosis and will be a further 2 - 3 weeks until the replacement turns up. Despite the bike being out of warranty i'm a bit disappointed (understatement)/ surprised there was no support offered. My expectations clearly need recalibrating, afterall it was only a £7k bike that hasn't had that much use, original owner etc... I'm not surprised at the failure, I've been waiting for something expensive to happen, I just thought the treatment might be more supportive instead of the not so comforting "tough luck mate, that'll be £528".
Was intending to upgrade to a Wild but don't feel like giving Orbea any more money after that. I doubt it will be much different from another manufacturer...
This ^ is why I planned to sell mine when it came out of warranty. The second hand market tanked pretty hard though and the bike isn't worth much now (relatively speaking). I figured I'd keep the bike and hope for the best. I'd lose more selling it now than I would having to pay out for a battery or a motor.
It's pretty poor that a £5k (£7k...£10k...) bike is only designed to last 2 years.
I was considering a Specialized as a replacement but it looks like they're down to 2 years warranty now.
@hugoagogo - that is a bit disappointing.
The Shimano (e8000) motor started playing up on my GF's Merida eOneSixty recently (slipping internally under load) - 3 years old so well out of warranty. The (mail order) dealer was helpful in liaising with Madison/Shimano - we were bracing for the full £1K cost or maybe 50% if lucky but Shimano gave 100% assistance so FOC.
It seems stange they won't publicise any guarantee of a 50% discount for new motor cost outside warranty when you purchase the bike. Seems to be a lottery whether you get a 1000, 500, or 0 bill when the motor breaks.
@vmgscot - it's left a sour taste, dealer says Shimano/ Madison don't want to know as its a battery issue, not the motor, and Orbea aren't prepared to do anything. I was braced for spending but feel a bit let down that there's no reduction on the battery given the experience of others with a first failure on an eeb and a battery should last longer than 2.5 years. Certainly won't be recommending Orbea to anyone in a hurry.
does sound very poor. As a contrast, I needed to get the motor replaced in my Spesh Levo SL last summer, a few months outside the 2 yr warranty. Local dealer bent over backwards to help, and the replacement was discounted buy about 40% by Spesh. From first speaking to them to motor being fitted and bike back with me was about a week.
LBS has got a 2022 M20 Rise with the Shimano EP8 RS 360Wh battery in at a decent price which I’m going to have a look at this week. Never had an Ebike before but these really appeal to me, so I was wondering what sort of mileage/ time will I get out of the battery. I’m 60kg and it’s mostly going to be NY Moors / Dales riding if that make any difference. Tia
At 60 kilos you'll be getting very good range compared to most. It's the biggest factor!
That’s good to hear! Sometimes being a little un has its advantages!
