For me, the stem, bar and seat post always have to match and be from the Manufacturer otherwise it just niggles at me and I find it quite frankly annoying.

Anyone else?

seatpost difficult with the preponderance of droppers on MTBs, but my bar, stem and post match on the road bike. Bar and stem currently DON’T match on the P+J MTB which is brings me out in hives.

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/do-you-match-up

Nothing like that. But I’m super careful about setup, making tiny adjustments to seat height or bar rotation angle. However, because I ride a variety of bikes, if I ride one for long enough the other feels weird so I adjust it, then make more micro adjustments, and then the others feel weird again, and so on. Vicious circle of adjustments.

Valve/logo.

For me it’s cable length. I always have my cables absolutely as short as possible with out interfering with my steering.

Valve/logo, yep, but that can be useful. (I just built a new set of wheels and I’m quite annoyed that the hub logos, both DT Big Rides, are reversed)

I’m a riding position obsessive, I tweak and tweak and when it’s right that’s it. Also not sure if it applies for the thread but I’m a total tyre nerd, always out for the best rubber.

Valve/logo and tyres must match too. And no crap tyres either though that’s not OCD.
No mixing SRAM and Shimano, the odd bit of RaceFace or Hope is fine but pick either one of the big S’s.
Post, stem and bars, a minimum of 2 must match, ideally 3.
Saddle height and distance behind the BB I know to the milimetre and it’s the same for all bikes, road or MTB.
Bar tape on the road bikes must be exactly the same distance on either side from the stem.
Kit wise, socks are always on the longer side and must match the jersey.

There’s loads more but that’s a start point.

No mixing SRAM and Shimano, the odd bit of RaceFace or Hope is fine but pick either one of the big S’s.

My Zero AM would distress you! 😉 SRAM dropper, mostly Shimano drivetrain (a mix of Saint, XT & Zee with a KMC chain and Works oval ring), Specialized bars and Hope everything else. It is all black though!

My Spitfire has Raceface bars and stem which I think is the first time I’ve had them both from the same brand – they’re that weird 35mm standard. No SRAM at all now I think about it, same drivetrain as the other bike but a Gravity Dropper post and loads of Hope bits. Black. Black! BLACK!!!

Quite a lot of tweaking on the riding/controls position. Valves lined up with tyre logos.

The tyres are all Maxxis 2.3 but I often have a so-called rear tyre on the front. Aarghhh!

I presume you all have matching wheels?

I presume you all have matching wheels?

I assumed this was a given.
Brakes need to match too, again, I assumed this was a given.
I’m also assuming that those who ride road bikes have matching bottle cages and will use the same bottle in each cage too? It can’t just be me who has to buy bottles in 2’s.

You would all hate me! Sometimes run miss matched brakes, wheels and even crank arms once.

I presume you all have matching wheels?

Yes, that is deliberate (I shall not be buying one!)

Tyre manufacturer has to match front and rear. Also it really annoys me when tyres still have those moulding hair-things left on them, but I don’t allow myself to cheat and pick them all off, they have to be worn off by riding. There’s a few left on my front tyre at the moment that are just refusing to die even after several hundred pretty rocky and rough miles, it’s driving me nuts.

Once I’ve seen the bastardly thing cartwheeling down a rocky slope a few times, I’m happy if the wheels still go round.
🙂

You lot are weird.