I have decided I need a 28t front ring for the Alps in a few weeks, and as luck would have it I have a 28t Superstar non-boost jobbie, currently running a 30t boost one, both oval direct-mount. The cranks are the cheap and creaky Sram carbon GXP ones from a few years back, the frame is a 2017 model with the asymmetric lower shock mount and carbon back end (? 9.8). Trek say boost only and things are for sure quite bulky around the bottom bracket area.

Anyhow, it all seems to fit! A 30t non-boost oval would probably get a bit close for comfort, but in all gears, throughout the travel range (shock off), at least 4mm clearance I would say (but that is on the workstand). What is more, the cassette is in non-boost position as it is in a non-boos wheel centrally spaced, so chainline-wise it ought to be better. Of course, there is the possibility of gaps of just the wrong size for a chain to get jammed in, but it it difficult to predict that.

Anyone else done non-boost on a Slash? I may get to test it out at the weekend, and let you know if I died.

Well this is obviously too niche but I can now confirm that it all works fine and I haven’t died. The gap between the chain and the mounting plate for my bashguard (I think it is a Superstar one) is in the “big enough for the chain to get in, small enough for it to get jammed there” zone, I am dithering over whether to bodge its top bit to make it a more effective chain-catcher.

Not a Slash but my last Bird was non boost stuff on boost frame. It’ll be fine.

Re: the gap, i cant honestly remember the last time I dropped a 1x chain so would live with it.

If you want a wuick and easy mod, you could try Sugru and mould something to close it up. 2mins of a job with sugru.

Not sure about longevity but given the chain drops rarely (or should do) it should be an option.

Mould a fin that’d guide the chain or stop it getting into the cap.

Sugru

Can do all-sorts with it and tis really durable, sticks like a limpet and harder to get off than that dog 💩💩 you accidentally trod in!’