New Oneup hubs

Had an email today from Oneup about their new hubs. If they turn out to be reliable they could be a really decent option.

They seem really light, 44t ratchet mechanism, double seals on the end caps and come with enduro bearings. All 3 types of freehub available and they come in loads of different colours if that’s your thing.

Price wise I think they’re similar to Hope / DT Swiss. Shame I don’t need any hubs anytime soon (although they’re showing as out of stock which seems daft when they’ve just launched them and presumably sent loads of people an email).

Hubs

The front is unexplainably porky but otherwise looks nice. Looks.like a screw in bearing cap on the nds at the rear.

Pricing seems very competitive for the weight. A DT 240 rear is £300+ at retail and even discounted your looking at £240

Selling the freehub separately from the rear hub is a bit cheeky

Missed that. Not really, it’s no different than listing 3 different products with different freehubs them 3 extra products for the spares.

The thing that would concern me is long, long term parts availability. Yes dropper parts are available and V3 parts can be fitted to V2 droppers but the switch rings got quietly discontinued (not great if you had invested in carriers for them).

The twin pack gets the freehub

1x Front hub (assembled)
2x Standard End Caps
2x Torque Caps
1x Rear hub (assembled)
1x Grease Packet (Dumonde™ Tech Pro X Freehub Grease)
2x 44T Ratchets
1x Ratchet Spring
1x Non-drive side end cap
1x Drive side dust cover (disposable)
1x Freehub (assembled)
1x Drive side end cap

Selling the freehub separately from the rear hub is a bit cheeky

It’s better than being forced to buy the one that you don’t need and then having to buy the one that you do.

Selling the freehub separately from the rear hub is a bit cheeky
It’s better than being forced to buy the one that you don’t need and then having to buy the one that you do.

And at least they aren’t £80+

joebristolFull

they’re showing as out of stock which seems daft when they’ve just launched them and presumably sent loads of people an email).

They’re in stock on the US site, just not in stock for the UK/Euro sites yet

I’d give them a go if they were on on of their daft 30% off deals every year or so but otherwise just go for whatever I can find cheeper between DT or Hope. I do like One Up stuff though, after sale is decent as well if you have an issue, even a few years later.

Yeah, good company, they make consistently good products, loads of clever ideas, and good service.

I’ve had since great products and brilliant aftersales from OneUp. Great company to deal with. These are definitely on my radar.

Can’t see what they add tbh, either tech, price or, I suppose, weight-wise. Given that their droppers use generic internals I suppose it’s a good bet that the freehub & ratchet at least is generic, so just a case of finding their origin if/when they stop supporting the spares.

Their droppers have been good but hubs are more annoying to sort out if anything goes wrong.
These are ‘just’ new design variation from expired DT patent for ratchet so chances are they’ll work well. Although I am suspicious of machined aluminium hub shell used as part of ratchet drive.

Might consider them in a couple of years when others have tested them thoroughly.

But in reality, it’s gonna be hard to pry me away from Hope’s reliability & support without them being significantly cheaper.

I like OneUp, everything I’ve had from them has been good.  But they are promoting these as notably lighter than other hubs so I think I will let others test them, especially the decision to machine the ratchet fitting into the aluminium hub shell rather than use a steel insert.  Probably fine but…

Also, do they come in bronze? 😀

Oh bugger.

Have been looking at new hubs and they have purple…..

Should’ve called the rear hub IKEA if you have to assemble it yourself, for god sake just put the ruddy freehub on like every other brand does then customer just orders the option they want. Utter nonsense.

Rubber_Buccaneer
Full Member

especially the decision to machine the ratchet fitting into the aluminium hub shell rather than use a steel insert.

I wondered about that but then I remembere that on a 240 the hub side is teh steel insert but the freebub side is machined aluminium,and there’s no wear issues there. PLus these seem to be single springed so the hub side of the star ratchet won’t move much.

The hub side ratchet ring can be alloy or steel on a DT hub. The 240 I’m servicing currently is alloy.

Going with a machined ratchet ring, rather than a steel insert, just to save a smidge of weight, is definitely questionable.

Also, no non-boost sizes (that I can see), so the gravel world is excluded, which seems odd given how big gravel is these days, particularly in the US.

I imagine they’ll want to see how these go in their core market of MTBers before they add a load more SKUs.

Does it save weight though (Vs an alloy ratchet ring). Maybe it’s less complex for them to machine it directly into the hub then it is to machine a thread and then a separate part with the same ring and an outer thread.

definitely saves weight, and the machining has to be done either way – doing it their way means it’s part of the machining of the hub, so just a bit of extra CNC work on a part that’s already being machined

Steel ring means a but less machining on the hub, but requires machining the steel part separately, then threading the hub and steel part, plus extra assembly.

So it’s lighter, but likely cheaper to make too

But does mean if it’s damaged it’s new hub shell time.

I’m also trying to work out how drive side bearing replacement will work as you can’t remove the ring nut to access it.

Step 5: Drive side bearing removal

Remove the non drive side bearing from the axle and recycle it. Take the axle and push it through the drive side bearing until the lip on the axle bottoms out on the inner race of the bearing. Place the axle drift (part 4/4) into the end of the axle. Keeping the axle centered and straight, punch the drive side bearing out of the hub shell with your hammer.

IMPORTANT: Both bearings push out through the non drive side.

I don’t love the sound of that, seems there’s no edge that the non drive bearing sits against, so depends on the axle to position it

can’t quite work out if that’s good or bad

IMPORTANT: Both bearings push out through the non drive side.

Well that’s at least partially answered my question.

Looks like the drive side bearing needs to be unseated and then also pushed through the non-dive side bearing seat in order to extract it.

Which is.. novel.

The hub cutaway seems to show two parts of the ratchets, the freehub and hub shell and both appear to be inserts, just splined, not threaded.  But another image seems to show the ratchet machined into the hubshell directly.  The desciption (to me) isn’t clear.  It says that they’re not having a threaded insert, which is fine, but are they machining splines for a ratchet insert or machining the ratchet into the shell?  From the pics of the 42t ratchet, I’d say it’s a splined insert.

No torque caps.

Comment on PB on supposedly official OneUp account:

Unlike pawl hub designs, ratchet teeth do not spin in the drive ring or cause wear. The drive ring is a static interface. Machining the drive ring directly into the hub shell makes the hub lighter with a wider bearing stance and easier to replace bearings. OneUp hubs are machined from 7000 series aluminium which is strong enough for an integrated drive ring. 6000 series hub shell bodies are not strong enough for an integrated drive ring. No plans for Silver hubs, yet…

No torque caps.

The product page states that the front comex with both torque and proper end caps.

So having had a quick look at the website yesterday, and being the owner of a couple of sets of DT hubs, I was intrigued to see they claim the ratchet ring (44T) is cross-compatible with DT hubs ‘with a spacer’.

Given that DT ratchet rings are £90 a set and come in either 36 or 54 teeth, a cheaper, 44 tooth ring could be the perfect sweet spot, particularly for the MTB as DT themselves say the 54 tooth is more fragile and not necessarily recommended for heavier riders or use.

Does anyone know what the specs of this ‘spacer’ that’s required is.?  It’s not even clear from the FAQ entry if it’s a spacer that is already in the DT hubs or something extra that needs to be added.?

Also, not sure how I feel about the removal process for the drive side bearing.  What’s the plan if the bearing has collapsed and driving it out via the inner race breaks it apart, leaving the outer race still in the shell.? That’s going to take some clever bodging to get out.!

It’s odd. Older Newmen hubs had a similar design, but there was enough room to get the bearing out as the machined part was larger

Can’t say I’m too bothered about the machined hubshell for the ratchet ring – it’s little different to e.g. the spline on a dreaded centerlock or Shimano crank.

Pushing the bearing out of the other side does seem a potential PITA though.

Also, no non-boost sizes (that I can see), so the gravel world is excluded, which seems odd given how big gravel is these days, particularly in the US.

have you not heard that gravel is gong boost for 2025?

only kidding. Aren’t One Up a mountain bike component company?

reggiegasket
Free Member

Going with a machined ratchet ring, rather than a steel insert, just to save a smidge of weight, is definitely questionable.

repeating myself here but, once I realised that DT freehubs are machined alu and have the same (actually more) movement of the ratchet ring I realised it’s a nonissue. It looks like it might be a wear part, but it’s not, so being nonreplacable just should never matter, it’s basically been tested in the wild by DT for a couple of decades. Interesting too that Nixie mentions some DT inserts are alu not steel, I’ve never seen that. Being able to replace a part that never needs replaced isn’t an advantage.

TBF I think you’re probably more likely to have an issue with the threading on a 240 than with this design? Like was seen on some Raceface wheels using the DT240 design where they managed to assemble some of them in a way that makes them almost impossible to remove, somehow (I suspect Raceface made the shells and DT made the internals?). Anyway. Both should be absolutely fine.

H1ghland3r
Free Member

Also, not sure how I feel about the removal process for the drive side bearing. What’s the plan if the bearing has collapsed and driving it out via the inner race breaks it apart

Get it out with a race puller. Most people don’t have those of course but it’s easy enough if you’ve got one. Should never happen, of course. A wee recommend here for bearingprotools.com who have a brilliant range of inexpensive pullers for blind bearings, broken bearings etc.

(is it not also a theoretical risk with the inner 240 bearing? I’m not sure but I suspect you can’t get a tool behind the outer race there either. But then with bearings of this type it’s seriously rare to actually break them up, I’ve always just tonked them out on the centre race without issues using my official bearing remover tool, the rear axle out of a ’00 Suzuki SV650.

These look good, but I’m deeply suspicious about their durability given their weight.

How come all these well regarded, in the market for years manufacturers aren’t producing anything this light?

Clever design !
I don’t get the need for (what looks like) a lock ring on the none drive side ?
Why not make the end cap but up against the bearing ?

How come all these well regarded, in the market for years manufacturers aren’t producing anything this light?

DT do. 180’s are way under those weights and I have a set of boost 240s on my desk that are 90g for the front and 210g for the rear.

ScienceofficerFree
These look good, but I’m deeply suspicious about their durability given their weight.

How come all these well regarded, in the market for years manufacturers aren’t producing anything this light?

They’re essentially the same design as the DT240s, and their claimed weights are within a couple of grams of the actual weights of the equivalent 240s

Plenty of lighter stuff around too, for more money. That said, look at their V3 dropper – OneUp do light stuff pretty well.