Hi there, I’m struggling with the shimano compatibility charts so would appreciate some real-world advice.

Currently running TRP Hylex brakes so looking to run the R9150 climbing shifters (don’t fancy the R600 hack inside the hood) to an R8050 RD for a 1x setup.

It’s a steel frame with no internal routing so was thinking of running the cable along the downtube with the brake hose then up inside the seat tube to internal battery via a hole drilled in the BB.

Just wondering if/why two junction boxes are needed. I’m not fussed about connectivity to alter the shift settings but not sure if it is necessary for firmware updates.

Any input appreciated (preferably with a shopping list!). Cheers

You can use a single junction box but without either the display or bar end junction box you’ll have no way of charging the battery.

Cheers. So it sounds like a junction is needed at bb and bar/stem. Any preference for bar v stem? Alu bars so happy to drill.

Just thinking aloud – I’m running a junction box a at the front (3 port) and junction b near the bb. That’s needed as I have a front / rear mech and a front / rear shifter, plus the internal battery.

To charge you really need the junction box a that sits under the stem, the mtb one with the digital display or the one that goes in the end of the handlebar. I think for your purposes the mtb one might be a good option.

It has 3 ports – if you’re only using 1 shifter that leaves 2 spare ports which could do the battery and rear mech. Only issue with that is you’d need a hugely long cable for the rear mech to junction box run – I’m not sure if they make them that long.

If they don’t you’ll need a junction b – but I’d want to hide that in the frame ideally.

I’ve no idea about it, but given lack of drilling on the frame for internal routing maybe you could run an external battery and keep it all outside. I’m not sure what that means for the junction box b.

Nice one, cheers JB

Only issue with that is you’d need a hugely long cable for the rear mech to junction box run – I’m not sure if they make them that long.

You can use EW-JC200 to join cables together –

https://www.sjscycles.co.uk/gear-spares/shimano-di2-ewjc200-etube-2-port-junction-ewjc200/

But if you are going to do that, you may as well run a four port junction at the bottom bracket as most set ups have.

This guy did a nice job of keeping the installation as clean as possible. It’s a bit of extra work but could look really good with the sprint shifters.

https://forums.mtbr.com/drivetrain-shifters-derailleurs-cranks/shimano-di2-mtb-asap-stealth-possible-installation-explained-1076219.html

Tidy

Could that method be used with 2×11 ultegra mechs setup to do sequential shifting/auto front changing?

I like the idea of just a couple of sprint switches and not brifter levers…

I don’t see why it wouldn’t work, they’re just switches so nothing particularly fancy about them.

Tidy but I can’t help thinking the sram wireless stuff is way neater and less hassle than all those wires.

Am starting to think the same but mega $$$. This is a bit of an ebay/lockdown project and an exercise in making do with existing equipment.

Following with interest…..got Hylex’s on my Ti Kite with a 1x cx Gevenalle shifter at the moment. Aesthetics aside, it works really well and the brakes are great.

Been tinkering with the TRP climber switch hack and an XT rear mech, hadn’t considered R9150s. The Kite’s got internal routing for Di2 but the carbon bars don’t, so think i’d need the under stem junction box.

BUT, it’s a huge outlay vs something that works perfectly well already!

This is really nice….

I liked the shrink wrapping to the brake hose, that’s very neat and pretty much eliminates any routing issues.

I wonder if you could do something like use the braided outer of a brake hose and the frame to make the circuit? Just need to figure out how to insulate the caliper from the frame (lever would be easy with a wrap of PVC tape).

Following with interest…..got Hylex’s on my Ti Kite with a 1x cx Gevenalle shifter at the moment. Aesthetics aside, it works really well and the brakes are great.

Had the same (used off ebay though) on the gravel bike for a couple of weeks which is why I clicked on this thread.

But it’s actually got me mulling over the idea of a hacked together Di2 setup on the rim braked Road bike, foregoing “brifters” altogether and just using sprint shifters, braking and gears totally separate, like the olden days…

Just as an alternative, I’m using a completely non di2 setup with hylexs on two of my bikes…..

Costs about £200 for the box with shifter and works brilliantly. It’s not pure electronic shifting more of a electronic/cable interface, but I’ve had no issues in over a year on one bike, the other is 4months new and again no issues.
Compatible with any mech any number of gears.

Home page

I think I’ve seen that ‘Cell’ thing before, looks like a good idea/product but only drives a rear mech? I either want to do 2x or maybe an XT based wide range 1x with the option to go ot 2x later…

Plus the one good thing about my road frame, much as I hate internal routing, it’s got all the ports, holes and internal space for Di2 cabling and batteries…

One of the things I’ve just found on fleabay are some DIY “Di2 Membrane Switches” which are apparently intended to be used as sprint/climb switches but thin with an adhesive backing and can be taped over and/or maybe fitted under a non-brifter hood cover?

Those switches hacked together with a SW-R600 (like that linked MTBR forum mod) could make for a very stealthy Di2 setup…

I’ve ordered a pair just to see/play with, it’s only a tenner and I’m probably going to be pissing about looking for cheap Di2 bits for the next 6 months anyway…

Haha, my thoughts exactly. Tbh the only thing holding me back on those homemade jobbies is the awkwardness of taking them to a shop. Guess that’s the point at which your suck up for the real thing (assuming they’ve failed for whatever reason)

It’s professionally made. Comes in a nice box. It’s just not Shimano or SRAM…. & not ‘true’ electronic shifting. Essentially an electronic remote cable shifter. Theres a motor which is controlled by the wireless shifter which actuates a screw shaft with a cable carrier on it, in 0.1mm increments. All of the gear positions are customised through an app on your phone.
The one on my gravel bike is hidden in a tool bag on the frame and you wouldn’t know it’s there… Batteries are removable and replacable, charges from a usb and had around 1000+ shifts per charge. You could buy two and use two, if you want front mech or dropper actuation.

I’ve actually got a pair of Tektro RL340 levers spare which would probably be a good option for use with 2/4/6? of those little “membrane switches” on the drops/flats/under the hoods?

If I’m smart very about it I could try and do a version of that SW-R600 switch mod that allows me to splice in extra switches at a later date if I wanted… Hmmmm.

@monkeyboyjc – TBH I’m kind of sold on Di2 having played with a couple of friends bikes, having a frame already built for it and I’m pretty sure given it’s essentially on it’s 3rd generation now I can score used parts to build a Di2 setup for a similar(ish) price, especially once you virtually eliminate the cost of the levers…

I think I’ve seen that ‘Cell’ thing before,

Never heard of Cell before, but it looks suspiciously like the Archer D1X system, which folk have used with some success.

Look up the 10th anniversary Pinnacle Arkose, it used that set up inc the buttons mod for the Hylex brakes with XT Di2 and a bar display as the junction box.

I run a 1×10 Di2 set up on my TT trike. Has an external battery with one junction box in an extension and a single cable down the down tube to a second junction box for the battery and what would be the FD. Could try bar end TT shifters on the drop bars instead? The second box tucks away under the chainstay and is really not noticeable.

The Shimano Di2 self-adhesive cable cover is not great but as for visibility, I barely notice it on a yellow frame.

Well those membrane switches turned up very fast and yep they are very thin, better crack on with sourcing some other Di2 parts…

Never heard of Cell before, but it looks suspiciously like the Archer D1X system, which folk have used with some success

Seperate companies. Both started on Kickstarter with similar designs a number of years ago, archer is MTB bias the Cell version is Road….

Playing in the garage today those membrane switches fit damn near perfectly under the RL340 hoods on the inside of each lever just the right place to operate with your thumb.

@Cookeaa, i have PM you.

I am assuming that for this to work it will have to be in syncro shift mode where the right button is for upshift and the left for downshift?

Ian

That would be my plan, I can also see it being a useful idea to add one further down on the drop and on the underside of the tops to give shifting options for other hand positions…

It’s a long way off though, I need to gather all the Di2 parts yet.

I’ve played with those membrane switches and spliced them into my road bike as additional sprint shifters. They worked great until a wet ride which killed both. I plan to try again, but use tape to waterproof them somewhat.

@Maltloaf That’s definitely worth knowing, I’ll do my best to waterproof them when I get round to assembling the whole thing, the bike also tend to be used more in dryer weather…