- Magura Rim Brakes mounting issue (1995 Model HS33)
Anyone have any wisdom on these rim brakes from hell Magura 1995ish HS33 (John Tomac Edition)? Would appreciate some advice on the mounts. They have a fixed “Elbow” that presses against the frame, these apparently can be moved but I cant see how, they look to be just a blank rivit with no means of adjustment. Does anyone know how to remove the elbows?
Spent the last 3 nights cleaning, bleeding and now trying to mount the bloody things. They look trick and work great (if you can ever get them adjusted), but if i cant get em sorted tonight I’m switching to Vees.Posted 1 year agoandysmiff1Member
IIRC – you undo the 5mm Allen bolt at the top that threads into the elbow, and if the elbow is really tight you can use a 10mm spanner (on the flats) to move it (you can also use the spanner to hold the elbow in place whilst you re-tighten the 5mm Allen bolt)
The elbow isn’t fixed, it might just be really tight in there! I think they were a pretty tight interference fit to stop them moving when braking.
I had a set of HS33 race lines on my trials bike circa ‘97, and that worked for me!
APosted 1 year ago
I see what you what mean, there is a 5mm bolt that screw into the other end of the elbow which is used to secure the brake booster. But this 5mm borlt doesn’t seem to be used to secure the elbow, the elbow seems to be secured via ridges around the bolt – so there is no way it can be twisted. Should the elbows be loose when not the brakes are not fully mounted?Posted 1 year agomjsmkeMember
The top bolts hold the cylinders in place so should be tightened before the bottom. Bottom bolts then tighten after setting the height. One side is quick release so you can get the wheel off easily.
As said above they are a bit fiddly to set up but once set, you just use the bottom bolts to remove/clean/service and won’t need to re alight the pads again.
Awesome brakes. I miss mine. Off to find my Tricks and Stunts DVD now…Posted 1 year ago
Thanks for the tips fellas, i;m going to have another go at them tonight. I also need to re-bleed the rear (did it the other night and got covered in mineral oil as a syringe popped off when injected new oil – thank god they don’t use DOT fluid).
Things will be much easier if i can set the elbows adjusted to fit the frame, and thanks for the tip on setting the booster bolts first – should help me get them dialed in.
And just to confirm to everyone they are very fiddly to fit. Had a few rage fits trying to set em up!!Posted 1 year agomick_rSubscriber
The spline bit of the elbow / horn also has a taper so that is part of why they are stuck. As mentioned, a good twisting will get them moving. I think the tapered bit might be steel, so removing the brake bits bits and warming the aluminium bracket with a hairdryer might free them (aluminium will expand more).
If you look at the photo up there ^ you can also see that the clamps are offset. The whole clamp can be swapped LH / RH to reverse the offset and move the brakes inboard / outboard by a larger amount. Be warned – swapping the clamps also means starting from scratch with all the elbow / booster settings and probably deciding you preferred it in the original setting anyway 🙂
I really don’t miss using those brakes…….Posted 1 year ago
ok, question: should the elbows be loose(ish) before mounting onto and tightening the booster bolts?
Mine have corrsion as mentioned above and aint budging – I just assumed this was normal as the splines indicated (to me) that they are mounted with some force to keep them in place (not by the bolts)
Twisting has been suggested but wouldn’t this strip out the mount hole?Posted 1 year ago
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