Lockrings for centrelock rotors

I’ve got some SRAM Paceline rotors on the way, and I’ve just realised they don’t come with lockrings. Am I right in thinking any old lockring will do here? They’re going on Mavic wheels if that makes any difference.

Pretty sure Lockrings are a standard fitting. There’s a choice of internal or external splines for fitting/ removal.

I know sometimes certain hubs/ axles can be tricky because they prevent the (internal) tool from fitting but if you’ve already got CL discs on the wheels then you’ll be able to just reuse the ones you already have.

There’s a choice of internal or external splines for fitting/ removal

Whilst we are on the subject,  is there any possible advantage/ reason for the internal ones except to piss people the **** off as they are impossible to use and look like they should take the same tool as a cassette but don’t.

It’ll be a cassette tool for shim internal spines won’t it? , and a bb tool for external splines… Might depend on flavor… Eg Campag bb tool for fulcrum, or shim ht2 for others

As susepic says, every CL lockring I’ve used has worked fine with either a cassette or (crescent rather than socket) bb tool

I’ve got one internal and one external on my shimano discs.

The internal spline does work with a cassette tool but only with a ‘hollow’ one. I have another cassette tool that has the locating pin in the centre, that doesn’t fit.

The external spline works with a HT2 spanner. But not the XT size, has to be the bigger one for Deore BBs.

So I guess while the lockrings are a standard fit, actually fitting them isn’t quite so standard.

Shimano make a tool with a thin centre locating pin, that works fine when things like the Park Tool one with a wide locating pin don’t fit. As above though, centrelock brakes use the same tools as a cassette IME

Don’t you just love bicycle “standards” 🙄

As above though, centrelock brakes use the same tools as a cassette IME

Both my Fulcrum external thread and Shimano internal thread lockrings use a BB tool

Eg Campag bb tool for fulcrum, or shim ht2 for others

Both mine use a Shimano BB tool in the larger size

(crescent rather than socket) bb tool

I use a socket BB tool, BUT you can’t tighten the lockring enough just by hand. A length of M6 studding through the axle, washers and a couple of nuts to put light pressure on the tool axially and you can. Release the pressure on the spanner (not the studding) every 1/4 turn to allow the lockring to settle inside the tool as it moves inward

The cetrelock rings in lovely colours are available on aliexpress / wish…

I had to buy a new cassette locking tool to fit some on a road bike. My existing one wouldn’t clear the end caps on the hub. Icetoolz was the answer. Cheap enough but a faff.

Have external ones also.

Probably prefer the internal ones as it is easier to get a secure grip as the tool goes deeper. But that may be the cheap BB tool I’m using. As my nice one didn’t fit as it had a guide in the middle that fouled the end caps…

The external BB type ones are a work of sadistic genius.

Tell me you haven’t done this:

1/ Rationalise the splines stop it moving so you don’t need it ‘that’ tight – just enough to stop it coming loose, etc.

2/ Think ‘that’s probably enough but a bit more won’t hurt’

3/ Get that thought that says ‘if the tool slips now I’m going to slice the tops off my knuckles on the spokes’ – I should get a towel to wrap around my hand

4/ (One nanosecond later) – see (3)

5/ Make a mental note for next time

6/ Ignore mental note next time. Especially as next time is undoing one that you did up stupidly tight despite knowing that …etc.

7/ Next time use M6 threaded studding, washers and nuts ^^ 🙂

Anyone else HATE CL rotors??!!

I see no reason for them!

Every singe one i’ve had (either a true CL disk, or using a 6bolt adaptor) rocks a few degrees….

Gimmie 6 bolt ANY TIME!

DrP

Every singe one i’ve had (either a true CL disk, or using a 6bolt adaptor) rocks a few degrees….

Can’t say I find them too bad. When they do this it’s usually because the lockring isn’t tight enough – or, admittedly the one ballache with them, I’ve found some SRAM ones seem to need a shim to get them tight enough on some hubs, otherwise the lockring bottoms out before the rotor is held tight.

Eg Campag bb tool for fulcrum, or shim ht2 for others

Nope, I think it’s a standard HT2 on Fulcrum. But it needs to be flat, either a socket type machined flat to take the chamfers off, or a cranked spanner type.

It is different though, DT Swiss CL adapters don’t fit them though.  In general I’m pretty sure the answer is the lock ring should come with the wheels, not the disks, the disks are standard but the wheel’s come in umpteen flavors.

I’ve gone from some bling* Hope ones in the end.

*Well, black so not really that bling I suppose

I bought Shimano rotors because they come with lockrings.

I believe the external bracket ones are to accommodate oversize axles. They don’t fit in some tight aerospace frames.

If your cassette tool has that annoying pin in the middle, you can often smash it out backwards using a hammer…

If your cassette tool has that annoying pin in the middle, don’t you just take the axle out and use it as normal….

or…..

https://www.halfords.com/cycling/bike-maintenance/bike-tools/halfords-cassette-tool-164081.html

“I think it’s a standard HT2 on Fulcrum”

You might be right, I fished around in the tool box to find one that fitted, and the one I could find was a campag one I’d picked up somewhere. There are two HT2 standards tho aren’t there?

There are two HT2 standards tho aren’t there?

It’s the original, larger size for my Fulcrums

And don’t think you can get away with using the lightweight, aluminium, lockrings from Shimano cassettes (Ultegra in my case)… They barely cover the middle of the Sram discs.

Discovered that one last night.

The internally splined ones are preferable to the external ones. Quick and easy with a casssette tool (no pin type). External are a little faffier, but only because my deore HT2 tool is the flat spanner type, so it runs flush against the disk in use. If I had a HT2 bb socket instead then it would be just as easy as the internally splined type.

7/ Next time use M6 threaded studding, washers and nuts ^^ 🙂

Can you draw us a picture as I can’t visualize what you’re saying.

There are two HT2 standards tho aren’t there?

There’s (at least) 4. I’ve got a double ended spanner, which came with an extra insert for the two smaller sizes.

Standards ehhh🤯

Anyone else HATE CL rotors??!!

I see no reason for them!

Every singe one i’ve had (either a true CL disk, or using a 6bolt adaptor) rocks a few degrees….

Gimmie 6 bolt ANY TIME!

Mine don’t rock , but yea.  Like pressfit BB’s they were designed to make the OEM’s life easier by reducing the number of tools / actions needed to build a bike on a production line.  And made everyone else life harder.

They are apparently lighter though which is probably why they’ve persisted. Even so if I was building my own wheels they’d be 6-bolt.

Mine don’t rock

This. Give me Centerlock every time.

Can you draw us a picture as I can’t visualize what you’re saying.

Tighten the lockring by hand initially to avoid cross-threading, but you won’t get more than 10Nm without the BB tool slipping off the lockring

A more basic version of this… https://www.merlincycles.com/hope-pf41-press-fit-bottom-bracket-installation-tool-73126.html

M6 studding through the through-axle and the BB tool (M5 for a 9mm QR, although I haven’t tried it)

Larger-size BB tool to the left of that image ^^ (similar to https://www.merlincycles.com/shimano-tl-fc37-hollowtech-ii-bbr60-bottom-bracket-socket-85886.html and the larger size)

Washer and nut that covers the square hole, without preventing a socket being used on the tool hex head. Washer and nut to cover the other end of the axle. Tighten a nut to push the tool against the disc and hold it there over the lockring, doesn’t need too much torque.

As you tighten the lockring just ease your hand pressure on the torque wrench every 1/4 turn to allow the lock ring to settle as it moves inward. No need to alter the pressure on the studding because the lockring rather than the disc moves

Why bother? I didn’t have the flat spanner tool, but I did have M6 studding, etc. HTH 🙂