Lets see your race CX bikes please (also canti vs disc for racing question)

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  • Lets see your race CX bikes please (also canti vs disc for racing question)
  • Daisy_Duke
    Member

    For racing canti’s are fine. For more extreme days out discs are better. See, you need two cx bikes now!

    Felt F6x for me…


    Muddy Cross by simondbarnes, on Flickr

    FunkyDunc
    Member

    Mine, well I only own 1 CX bike so it’s for racing, commuting and general road riding. I can’t see how the pads would wear any quicker than they would on an MTB race, if anything the discs are further away from the mud than they would be on 26er..

    Ok no good if you want a bike with snob value, but its very nice to ride.

    jonba
    Member

    I’m still on my first set of pads. Done one CX sesason, the 3 peaks and probably a few hundred miles of road and bridleway.

    mrblobby
    Member

    See, you need two cx bikes now!

    N+1 always holds true!

    Thanks all. Loads of nice bikes there. Most likely go cantis based on what I’ve read here and elsewhere. And as it so happens by LBS have a Giant TCX in my size that they are kindly building up for me to “have a look at” but not buy. Most definitely absolutely positively not to buy. Hmm though it would go nicely with my TCR 🙂

    Edit: Nice Crosslights too. High up on my list.

    mrblobby
    Member

    Any Spesh Crux’s out there…? Seems like a nice racey bike.

    natrix
    Member

    This is one of Helen Wymans old bikes so it’s been well raced (she’s currently ranked 4th in the world), see http://www.helenwyman.com/

    Currently in it’s hacking around the woods mode. I find that canti’s are OK if you are mechanically minded enough to set them up properly, otherwise I’d definitely go for disc brakes.

    traildog
    Member

    I can’t see how the pads would wear any quicker than they would on an MTB race

    The theory is that cable discs work differently from hydralic discs. They only move one pad and they don’t self adjust. The pads are also apparently thinner because of this.
    I have no idea of this is true or not.

    DrP
    Member

    Yes, only one pad moves, to press the disc into the other.
    They are, however, the same thickness as hydro (Often the same actual pad)

    DrP

    jonba
    Member

    Pads are the same on bb7 as one of the other avid brakes.

    I have a theory…

    There is now a bit in the 3 peaks about disk brakes and the ability to maintain them on the course. I wonder if people are using them and the pads are wearing and they are trying to adjust them using the barrel adjusters. On bb7s I’ve found this to be insufficient as one side wears much faster. While most of the time it works occasionally you need to wind in one side or both. I thought I’d nearly worn out my pads on the 3 peaks as I was adjusting them with the barrel on the move. Got to the bottom and the finish expecting to be nearly at the metal but there was loads of pad left. Wound them in and they are fine. They don’t self centre like people are used to with hydraulics.

    clubber
    Member

    TBH I suspect that it’s more because CX races are more commonly muddly than mtb races – not so much here because it’s always muddy here but more in the US and Europe. As such, they’re just seeing what we often see in the UK (eg non-sintered pads killed by 1 wet/muddy/sandy ride) but aren’t used to it.

    Premier Icon GrahamS
    Subscriber

    Yes, only one pad moves, to press the disc into the other.

    Anyone know why they work like that? Surely it’d be pretty simple to make a cable-pull calliper where both pads move? Like.. err.. rim brakes for instance?

    Premier Icon davetrave
    Subscriber

    There is now a bit in the 3 peaks about disk brakes and the ability to maintain them on the course. I wonder if people are using them and the pads are wearing and they are trying to adjust them using the barrel adjusters. On bb7s I’ve found this to be insufficient as one side wears much faster. While most of the time it works occasionally you need to wind in one side or both. I thought I’d nearly worn out my pads on the 3 peaks as I was adjusting them with the barrel on the move. Got to the bottom and the finish expecting to be nearly at the metal but there was loads of pad left. Wound them in and they are fine. They don’t self centre like people are used to with hydraulics.

    Which is why I’ll be going for a V-Twin set up on my new bike. Note though, that they never previously said anything about being able to maintain rim brakes and mine were destroyed last year…

    STATO
    Member

    Anyone know why they work like that? Surely it’d be pretty simple to make a cable-pull calliper where both pads move?

    There are a few options out there, but most people wont look beyond BB7’s

    clubber
    Member

    Why is because it’s simpler and in the real world it works well enough. Given that mechanical systems don’t self adjust, there’s less benefit to having two moving pads.

    That said, the new Tektro Spyre is mechanical and has two moving ‘pistons’.

    ChunkyMTB
    Member

    My old disco…

    mrblobby
    Member

    … forget that… probably better to start another thread!

    Premier Icon GrahamS
    Subscriber

    Why is because it’s simpler and in the real world it works well enough.

    Yeah, my BB7s work really well, I like em, but I do get the occasional “skiff” from the rotor brushing the un-retracted pad.

    not enough to make any impact at all on speed – just enough to make me wonder about the design reasoning.

Viewing 18 posts - 46 through 63 (of 63 total)

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