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[Closed] Karate Monkey Middleburn Uno problem build up

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I'm having problems with the BB / Uno combination. It rubs when the crank nut is tightened. I started with a square taper 73 X 110 then replaced it with a 113, but the lock ring on the chainring rubs on the BB. I've dismantled the Uno and that is definately flush. It's 1/8th so I tried a 3/32 ring and that was just as bad.
The chainline looks good, using a wider BB will certainly put it out.
Any ideas?


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 7:27 pm
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What BB are you using? I had problems with hope and crank brothers,

Shimano and royce have been fine.


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 7:35 pm
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Shimano......


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 7:35 pm
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If you assemble it off the bike on the 113 does it rub too?

Is the lock ring tight and the chain ring fitted correctly - there's a ridge inside that mates to a nub on the crank arm?


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 7:37 pm
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Not tried that,
Lock ring tight and chain ring fitted correct, I fited it to the non drive side spun it and it was lovely and true....even noticed the cut out to allow the chainring to clear the arm.


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 7:39 pm
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I am pretty sure you will need a longer axle bottom bracket. 113mm works fine on a 68mm BB, but on a 73mm I have found it rubs. I had the same problem on my bike and a 118mm axle solved it.


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 7:57 pm
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The only thing, (apart from buying a third BB) is the chainline looks right, actually it would only be an additional 2.5mm and that shouldn't be too bad..


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 8:11 pm
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wwass
I just tried the chainset on the 73 X 110 off the bike (as the 113 is still in the bike) and it clears, (just). What does that mean? I can't see how the BB would go in any further, it's tight.


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 8:26 pm
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Says to me that the issue must be about axle length in the frame but I can't say what - the drive side cup is attached to the bb so it can't get shorter once installed. If you install the bb without the non drive side cup does the crank still foul the cup?

I think trying a 118 is a good idea but obviously will cost you money.


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 8:31 pm
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My mate (a good engineer) has offered to take a mm off the BB drive side. I'm tempted...


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 8:45 pm
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My mate (a good engineer) has offered to take a mm off the BB drive side. I'm tempted...

I don't see how that would help.
The distance between the outer shell of the bb and the lockring will remain the same no matter what you do to the frame.


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 8:58 pm
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Stu, I'm not with you, if you mill a mm, for example, off the BB it self, not the frame, I'd gain a mm, wouldn't I?


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 9:16 pm
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You could take a bit off the BB unit and a bit off the lockring to gain enough clearance yes.
I think I read your post as you were going to machine some off the BB [b]shell[/b] not the BB [b]unit[/b] .


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 9:25 pm
 69er
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Using a Royce 68mm bb here in a 73mm shell with a 113mm axle here on my 69er with a Uno crankset. Great chainline and no close tolerance issues...

Can do a pic if you wish.


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 9:52 pm
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As already said by others. 118 bb.
I had the same with my Middleburn cranks rubbing the bb .
Fitted a shimano 118 bb problem solved


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 11:00 pm
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whats bb singlecrack? is that ballbag 🙂


 
Posted : 23/11/2011 11:15 pm
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Stu, I think that's the plan, a bit drastic but it saves buying a 3rd BB and means I may even get the Mother Hubbard done for the weekend..
Otherwise a 118 it will be..........


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 7:08 am
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It my be[img] http://www.kread.info/g.php [/img]


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 8:33 am
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flashes - what kind of lockring is on your crank?

I had a Middleburn with the old pin spanner (two holes) lockring. Changed it for a new lockring which uses a 6 point removal tool - like a campag BB removal tool. The new lockring stood a bit proud so I filed it down. No issues since.

Hope you get riding soon!


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 10:14 am
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I have the new type, that's too slim to mill so we'll attack, I mean machine down the chainring


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 11:31 am
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I've managed to borrow a 118 BB, so I'll try that.


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 4:33 pm
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Firstly are the cranks new?

I have experienced this twice with Middleburns.

For me it was down to 1) Incorrectly machined taper (new cranks) , 2) worn taper (second hand cranks).

Middleburn kindly replaced the new pair - when correctly tightened the lock ring bound against the BB. Same with a 107mm, 110mm & 113mm!

The second hand pair I got away with running a 118mm BB and re-spacing the rear cog. Work fine after a bit of setting up.


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 4:57 pm
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New cranks, second hand but very good, chainring and lockring
I'll try the 118 and see if that works...


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 5:06 pm
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The 118 worked, the square tapers seemed much more tapered. I have masses of rooms but the chain line seems fine. Now all I have to do is stop the star washer pulling up through the headset..........hey ho..


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 8:53 pm
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hurrah! 😀

make sure you post pic when complete


 
Posted : 24/11/2011 8:55 pm