I've just bought a Reverb, which is very exciting but…
The seat tube flared guide busts easily and need careful secure alignment ( watch the bending of the to gland on the seat post collar) . TF Tuned do spare ones.Posted 4 years ago
On my Canyon the u bolt clamps under top tube need careful angling too so IMO its worth get right. bits. Seem en CRC or web somewhere (vague & not entirely helpfulI know).
but there’s no ‘spare’ guides to route it on my Mojo.
Any suggestions on how I should do it, are the stick one guides any good? Do I want to be sticking stuff to my frame? Are there piggyback guides that can attached to the existing ones?
Pictures and suggestions would be great.Posted 4 years agosandal100Subscriber
A friend of mine has a mojo with no reverb tabs. He is running 1×10 so we very carefully drilled out the cable guides for the front derailleur to remove the little stop where the outer butts up to and then ran the hose through there. Had to take the barb off so it was just hose as its a very tight fit when threading through but it worked and no problems thus far. No picture I’m afraid as its in his basement!Posted 4 years agodlrMember
As honourablegeorge said, m-part stick on guides, used them on a variety of bikes and never come unstuck etc, have them here although I got from CRC I think http://www.tartybikes.co.uk/rim_brake_spares/mpart_stickon_cable_guides/c5p10896.htmlPosted 4 years agoextremenikMember
Mine was a simple and cheap solution-if you are happy bleeding your parts.
Take the rear brake hose off and run a length of black heat shrink over that is wide enough to put the Reverb hose through too.
Put the Reverb hose through, re-attach bleed the Reverb and brake and it looks pretty clean as you now have a single line from front to rear.
To finish it put one cable tie around the seatclamp to hold the Reverb hose tight and turn the seat 360 degrees. The hose then coils around the post and when the seat extends up and down the slack cable doesn’t catch the tyre/suspension.Posted 4 years ago
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