Is the front mech dead, what set up are you using?

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  • Is the front mech dead, what set up are you using?
  • Premier Icon jameso
    Subscriber

    There’s life in the FD yet and it’ll get a shot in the arm in future. I used 1×8 on an XC bike with a big fork/bar and 60mm stem in the late 90s and haven’t been convinced that 1x is a cover-all in all the years since then. Depends what you want to ride, gear range etc. It’s getting close to a do-all option for many, just a bit pricey currently.

    steve_b77
    Member

    I get the whole 1x for simplicity but for climbing proper hills and actually riding all the way it’s far more efficient to spin than it is to grind.

    Is the 1x set up the next step from you can climb anything with a standard double and an 11-23 on a road bike, when it’s been proven that you can sustain a far higher output for longer with an ‘easier’ gear than a macho big gear grind?

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    I get the whole 1x for simplicity but for climbing proper hills and actually riding all the way it’s far more efficient to spin than it is to grind.

    Depends on how strong you are and that too. Personal.

    Premier Icon mikewsmith
    Subscriber

    Depends on how strong you are and that too. Personal.

    when it’s been proven that you can sustain a far higher output for longer with an ‘easier’ gear than a macho big gear grind?

    πŸ™‚ and if you live near any real hills

    Premier Icon rockhopperbike
    Subscriber

    1*10, 11-34 block with a 34t thick thin, works well for me in calderdale- long draggy climbs are a chore- but getting fit generally sorted that issue

    brant
    Member

    There’s life in the FD yet and it’ll get a shot in the arm in future.

    Cheeky πŸ˜‰

    Yeah. I loved that.

    nikk
    Member

    steve_b77 wrote:

    I get the whole 1x for simplicity but for climbing proper hills and actually riding all the way it’s far more efficient to spin than it is to grind.

    Is the 1x set up the next step from you can climb anything with a standard double and an 11-23 on a road bike, when it’s been proven that you can sustain a far higher output for longer with an ‘easier’ gear than a macho big gear grind?

    How come 3 of the top 4 of the last Highland Trail Race were on singlespeed then? There are one or two ‘proper hills’ in that IIRC πŸ™‚

    Bazz
    Member

    Definitely not dead for me, 2×9 on the full susser and 3×9 on the HT, i do have a single speed as well for winter slop riding. I tried 1×9 once and whilst it was fine for general riding it did feel compromised on climbing ability and top speed, it managed rather than excelled.

    Premier Icon roverpig
    Subscriber

    2×10 on the 26″ Full suss (24,32+bash and 11-36)

    3×10 on the 29er HT (22,34,46 and 11-36) but that covers everything from mountains off-road to long road sections.

    Since getting my first 10 speed (as in 2×5) as a kid in the 70s I can’t remember ever having any hassle with a front mech. The rear, yes. They need adjusting as the cable wears, are prone to getting bashed and wear out. But the front has always been a fit and forget item for me.

    MarkLG
    Member

    I’ll be sticking with my FD until 1x 11 is a sensibly priced option (Β£300 for a cassette 8O).
    I’m a spinner, not a grinder when it comes to hills.
    Running a 22/36 front and a 11-32 9sp rear which gives me a nice range for the sort of riding I do.

    mkidley
    Member

    1×10 (32 & 11-36) on my hardtail, but I think I’ll stick with 2×10 for the time being on my 29er fs, so not totally dead. Different tools for different jobs.

    Climbing in North Wales for the first time on a 1×10 yesterday nearly killed me, however it’s character building. πŸ˜€

    Yetiman
    Member

    I’m coming up for a year without a front mech. I started off with a Hammerschmidt 1×9 set-up, which I really liked, and I’m now running 1×10 with a 30t Wolftooth ring up front and a 40t General Lee adatper at the back.

    32:16 rigid SS

    36 with an 11-36 cassette on the Meta.

    Can get up just about everything in the Plymouth/Dartmoor areas, as well as back home in the Mendips (Bath).

    Didn’t have any issues when I was in Scotland on the Meta either. Once the front ring is shagged I’ll probably loose a tooth or two off it though for the next one.

    SiB
    Member

    Was loving having a granny today, proper sloppy, greasy conditions

    …..and for that reason I am out. 1 x 10 for me, 11-36

    Premier Icon FOG
    Subscriber

    As somebody who is fairly ancient and not likely to get much fitter I doubt that I will be able to manage without a grannyring to winch up hills with. Yes I suppose 1×9/10/11 systems are simpler and lighter but the difference is so marginal that for me it is not worth it. On my 2 bikes I have only replaced 1 FD in 5 years of grinding around the Peaks, Dales and Scottish mud and grit so its hardly a major issue. In fact its rear mechs that I tend to kill and have longevity problems with which would presumably be worse when working over a wider range of sprockets

    Olly
    Member

    2 x 10 here 22/36. while dΓ©railleurs are used rather than gearboxes, front mechs will remain. its not about needing the granny ring for climbs, its about chain line! keeping the chain straight reduces wear, drag, noise. Cant say i’ve ever had a problem with a front mech, just learn to set it up properly and use it properly!

    I have lost the outer ring admittedly , but the line still works, the middle ring sits in line with around sprocket 8.

    Premier Icon colournoise
    Subscriber

    3 bikes, all 1xsomething.

    BFe – 1×9 – 34t/11-34
    Mr Hyde – 1×9 – 34t/11-32
    Lee Cooper – 1×1 – 32/16

    Admittedly I live in a very unhilly part of the country, but the Bfe has got me round Glentress, Innerleithen, Borrowdale, Whinlatter, CyB, Laggan, Penmachno, etc. just fine. Round here I ride it like a singlespeed and stick to a 34/17 gear which is fine for local rides, Thetford, Sherwood and Wakerley. Anywhere else I find anything I can’t spin a 34/34 up I’m happy to get off and push on anyway.

    ska-49
    Member

    1×10; 36 & 11-36.
    Not very hilly around here.

    Premier Icon chakaping
    Subscriber

    First ride on my new 26/38 chainset today, was 32t single ring on front before – but it’s a fast bike and I wanted to be able to pedal harder.

    The granny ring came in handy when spinning uphill in winter slop.

    Exactly. 1×10 was fine in the summer, really needed that 26t ring today though.

    Premier Icon Nobby
    Subscriber

    Have 2×10 on the FS, 3×9 on the ageing HT & a 32:16 Rigid SS – each has it’s uses/merits.

    As has already been said, I reckon front mechs are as dead as 26″ wheels.

    Spin
    Member

    It’s obvious to me that there are increasing numbers of people that are willing to push their bikes up rideable inclines. In line with this increase, the stigma of so doing is starting to fade to the point where pushing is the norm and not some sort of namby pambyness.

    It’s clear that this will lead to an increase in people riding 1×9 or 1×10 set ups as there is no point lugging the extra weight of a front mech up a hill if your intention is to push anyway.

    Premier Icon djflexure
    Subscriber

    Everybody seems to dwell on going up hill
    For me it’s the top end speed that suffers going 1x

    Premier Icon sprocker
    Subscriber

    Tried 1 x 10 for about 3 months and gone back 2 x 10 I just found it ball ache on long day rides and missed the chance to rest my legs a bit . Setup wise never had a problem with a front mech in fact they have lasted longer than any other part of my bike .

    chrismac
    Member

    I would like to go 1x but there is no way I can without pushing a lot. My 22 x 36 was well used today

    Premier Icon Simon
    Subscriber

    Looks like the front mech is alive and well for many people.

    Premier Icon legspin
    Subscriber

    I prefer 3x over 2x, so not much chance of going 1x. I find I spin out on 2x to quick on the link sections on my longer rides. Whilst locally I spend most time in the big ring. Not because I’m awesome because it’s quite flat.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    2 of mine are double, 2 single but the single ring ones are certainly more limited in usefulness. Maybe if I could afford 1×11 that’d change but though I like the 1×10 on the hardtail there’s no way the big go-anywhere-do-anything bike is going to lose so much of its capability.

    radoggair
    Member

    does anyone do a 10-38 or 11-38/11-40 cassette, 10sp??

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    I think just those General Lee adaptor things?

    bigrich
    Member

    SRAMs had a go; mostly as they can’t make a decent front mech for toffee.

    it’s one of those things, like chainstay u brakes, elevated stays and 27.5 that’s a marketing fad.

    Premier Icon Northwind
    Subscriber

    SRAM traditionally dealt with that shortcoming by making their shifters compatible with Shimano fronts πŸ˜‰

    robj20
    Member

    I couldnt wait to get rid of the front mech, now using XX1 with a 30t front ring. Its the best upgrade i have ever done, even better than going to a dropper post.

    Premier Icon ddmonkey
    Subscriber

    I’ve gone 1 x 10 on both my bikes, I only really miss the granny on very long steep climbs but otherwise no problem.

    messiah
    Member

    For me front mechs are for road bikes… it must the where and how I ride πŸ™„ Actually… there is only one local hill where I need the inner ring on my road bike so maybe I should make that 1x???

    I’ve not used a front mech on a mountain bike for years and will not go back unless its for a mile munching clown wheeled thing for cummuting… in which case I’ll buy a cross bike… and even then I might go single up front!

    I had a HammerSchmidt on my big bike but its now running XX1 and its all I need even with a 32 up front for the stupid big mountains. I love XX1… the first properly thought through mountain bike groupset πŸ˜‰

    On my hardtail I run 1*9 with a 30t and 11-34 which is great for the local forest where I ridebreak hardtails. Sometimes its over/under geared but I can live with that because nothing last long in there.

    Premier Icon roverpig
    Subscriber

    For me front mechs are for road bikes…

    This is the bit I don’t understand. Everyone accepts that a front mech is a good idea on a road bike, but a mountain bike has to deal with a much larger variation in gradient and trail conditions, so surely it needs a wider range of gears.

    I guess if I was dropping chains a lot or something I might see the point. But a front mech has never never caused me any problems and the granny has allowed me to get up some climbs that I’d have to walk otherwise (and I don’t go out on my bike for a walk), so I’ll stick with it for now.

    _tom_
    Member

    This is the bit I don’t understand. Everyone accepts that a front mech is a good idea on a road bike, but a mountain bike has to deal with a much larger variation in gradient and trail conditions, so surely it needs a wider range of gears.

    I always find front mechs get clogged with mud and shite much easier on a mtb than on a road bike. Saying that I’ve still managed to seize my road bikes front mech hence why its been 1×9 for ages now.

    mogrim
    Member

    3×9 here, but there’s little mud round this way, and lots of mountains. Front mechs are pretty much maintenance free – a cable/outer change maybe once a year, and that’s it.

    Premier Icon roverpig
    Subscriber

    I always find front mechs get clogged with mud and shite much easier on a mtb than on a road bike.

    Fair enough. It’s mostly rocks and peat with a fair few hills up here. But if a front mech gets clogged with mud isn’t a rear just as bad? I can see the argument for hub gears in muddy areas.

    _tom_
    Member

    Nah my rear mech seems to be ok, it’s just the front is a good catcher from crap kicked up by the rear wheel. My chain guide gets it as well on a particularly muddy ride but it’s easier to sort out than a stuck mech! I do have some gear skipping issues when the weather gets a bit damp, hence why I like singlespeed so much.

    Premier Icon njee20
    Subscriber

    This is the bit I don’t understand. Everyone accepts that a front mech is a good idea on a road bike, but a mountain bike has to deal with a much larger variation in gradient and trail conditions, so surely it needs a wider range of gears.

    It’s not really the gradients and what not though, it’s the speeds you want to be able to pedal at. For a MTB really you want something (say) 5-20mph, above that you’ll be pumping or just freewheeling. On the road you want (say) 8-40mph, so the range needed is far wider. You also don’t want the big jumps on the road as they’re far more noticeable due to the subtle gradient changes.

    Premier Icon mikewsmith
    Subscriber

    never really had an issue with mechs and shifters. Even with mud and crap. Ditching the big ring for 39 & bash made sense for me loosing the 24 doesn’t yet.

    messiah
    Member

    This is the bit I don’t understand. Everyone accepts that a front mech is a good idea on a road bike, but a mountain bike has to deal with a much larger variation in gradient and trail conditions, so surely it needs a wider range of gears.

    Hence the for “where and how I ride” bit πŸ™„ We all ride in different ways. A front mech is designed to take the chain off one ring and put it on another… and the two/three chainrings are designed to help the front mech achieve this by being cut-away/ramped/pinned/etc to help the chain shift… on a mountain bike being ridden/peddaled hard over rough ground I really don’t want the chain coming off the front chainring at all… ever! I don’t like my knees and bo*&*^ meeting the handlebars and stem. I’m happy to compromise my gearing by having fewer gears for the benefit of never having the chain come off at the front.

    So far I’ve yet to find a climb I was able to do with 22 x 34 that I can’t get up the 32×42 on my XX1… Munro’s included.

    Premier Icon fathomer
    Subscriber

    1×10 on both bikes, 32/11-36 on the full sus, 34/11-36 on the hardtail. Both ridden locally, which is flat but do a fair bit of riding in the peaks and get up most things, what I don’t would have defeated me with a granny as well. I’d love 1×11 but far to spendy at the minute.

    I think if I were riding up proper mountains I’d want a granny if XX1 was still to expensive.

Viewing 43 posts - 46 through 88 (of 88 total)

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