Is the front mech dead, what set up are you using?
I run an all mountain / Enduro bike with 160mm, wide bars an a narrow stem. I currently run a 1×9 setup with an 11/32 out back and 34 upfront with an E13 guide, this has been fine and has got me round local trails, Welsh / Scottish trail centres, the Peaks & Lakes.
I’ve since decided to help with the long slogs and technical climbs I’ll make my life a little easier and run a 1×10 with an 11/36 outback and 32 upfront.
I’m just wondering what set up other people use and how they get on with it?
CheersPosted 4 years agosvalgisMember
32t front 11-36 rear, will probably go 30t front when the current ring wears down. I built up my last bike with a front mech to try it again after a season of 1×10 where I sometimes missed a lower gear, but I hated it – I learned to stand up and pedal for extended periods of time instead.
If I was going away to ride in proper mountains (with the intent to pedal up them) I’d just fit a granny and manually shift the chain depending on ascent/descent rather than dealing with a front mech again.Posted 4 years agoesher shoreMember
-ran 33T x 11-36T for first year
-replaced with 32T x 11-36T
slightly easier getting up bigger hills in wet, and cadence seems more suitable from the 1T drop in front chainring size, the 33T always seems mismatched with rear?
recently tested new SRAM 11-speed with the huge 42T cassette and 32T front, and was seriously impressed with ability to spin up steep muddy climbs, which is the only situation my 10 speed lets me down.Posted 4 years agosharkattackMember
My last bike came fitted with 2×10 and it was my first ever front mech. I planned to ditch it the minute it dropped the ball but it worked perfectly for 2 years. The granny ring came in handy when spinning uphill in winter slop.
Now that I’m building a bike though I’m going 1×10 for mainly aesthetic reasons. If I don’t like it I won’t be scared to fit a front mech.Posted 4 years ago
I just find running a single up front has really helped with my riding as it forces me to ride properly uphill rather than taking the easy option and just spinning up in the granny.
Also like the idea of no front mech, cable and shifter, much prefer the clean look of my bars without all the clutter.
Would love XX1 but the cost is inane, I’ll just stick with a move to 1×10 for the mo!Posted 4 years agolegendMember
The granny ring came in handy when spinning uphill in winter slop.
Was loving having a granny today, proper sloppy, greasy conditions so keeping a decent cadence going was pretty much crucial to stop the rear wheel spinning up.
At nicely manicured places like trail centres I don’t need a granny, but as it’s doing absolutely no harm it’ll be staying for the time being.
2×9. 24(I think)-36 front, 11-32 rear.Posted 4 years agonikkMember
11-36 10 speed Shimano cassette with a SRAM thick/thin 28 on a 29er.
Before that, ran a 11-36 10 speed Shimano cassette with a Hope 32 on a 26er.
The 29er setup is marginally lower geared than the old 26er gearing, but I chose it for very long days in the hill with bikepacking gear. A 30 tooth up front on the 29er would give me marginally higher gearing. I ran it with the 32 to start with, but found the low wasn’t low enough for ‘bale out’ gearing.
The SRAM XX1 cranks and chainring are great. I am considering going 11 speed at some point, but no way am I paying £250 for a cassette, that is going to need to drop down in price a lot, and remain competitive weight wise. before I’d go with that.
Front derailleurs are the work of the devil. Horrible horrible Heath Robinson things. Ugly, mechanically questionable, impractical, unnecessary.Posted 4 years agodirtyriderMember
28t XX1 on the Krampus
32t XX1 on the TallboyC
its a flawless system so far, TallboyC setup has been on a year with zero adjustment, plenty of miles in the peaks, chains never been off
just building a budget Highball for my brother, thats got 30t Works SRAM on X9 Cranks, with 11-36 out the back and an X9 Clutch mech, will be interested to see how the setups works in comparisonPosted 4 years ago
On my Mmmbop I’ve got a 1×10 set up, 11/36 cassette with a 32t ring. It’s OK but I miss the lower gears for steep/tech climbs and spinning out on the road can be a problem.
Gearing on the full suss is 2×9, 11/34 cassette with 22/34 rings, bash and Stinger. I prefer this combination to the 1by10.
XX1 looks interesting and I’d like to try it but it’ll need to trickle down the range before I can afford it.Posted 4 years agonotmyrealnameSubscriber
The front mech is a thing of the past for me, either singlespeed or XX1 on my two bikes.
I run the XX1 with 32t up front but I’m about to get a 34t for it. So far I’ve had no issues with getting up climbs around my way.
I can’t see me going back to having a front mech again.Posted 4 years agorobdobMember
9sp 11-32 and 22/36
I suppose I don’t use the bottom gears loads so could go to 24/36. Problem for me is that with 1×10 which I have considered I can get a low enough gear maybe with 30/36 or similar but a 30 or 32 front with 11 on the back just isn’t high enough. I moved to a 22/36 as 22/32 was too low and would seriously consider having a 24/38 or something if it was doable.Posted 4 years agoSuperficialMember
1x is definitely harder work than a 2x setup. I love it, but I don’t think it’s for everyone by a long shot. Beginners, casual cyclists, unfit, lazy people will all hate it, and certainly some perfectly-fit people will prefer to sit and spin. So I don’t think it will ever conquer all. But I have it on both my mountain bikes and there are no plans to change.Posted 4 years ago
Superficial, I think you hit the nail on the head. I find 1×9 harder but so much more rewarding as I feel as if I’m putting in so much more each and every time I ride.
Will still make the move to 1×10 to help with the climbs but for me, front mechs are dead and buried.Posted 4 years agosvalgisMember
I’m guessing the front mech haters are the ones who can’t set them up.
It’s not about that at all for me (never had a problem setting them up). The main thing for me is just that the actual riding is more fun when there are two levers left to worry about. Might sound a bit daft, and maybe I am, but I do find it makes a big difference and I’m just happier overall on the trails. 🙂Posted 4 years agomcnultycopSubscriber
I’m not the fittest but run 32t on the HT and 30t on the FS both with an 11-36 cassette. It’s hard work at times on some climbs but my problem is always that if I have an easier gear I’ll end up using it, so quite often with a granny I felt like walking would be faster. 1x makes me push harder.Posted 4 years agowobbliscottMember
I run 11-36 out back with an x9 type 2 and an x9 crank with Wolftooth 28t spiderless thick/thin ring with bash guard up front. Runs great and gives me ratios suited to the riding I do.
I’m really loving the look of the Pinion gearbox and am considering one for a hardtail build, but it ain’t cheap, seems to me to be the gearbox solution. Though I’m not sure I need such a wide gear range with 18 gears. It would be good if they built an 11 or 12 spd lighter and more compact box.Posted 4 years ago_tom_Member
1×9 on my dh bike, singlespeed on my hardtail and bmx, and will be back to 2×9 on the road bike whenever I can be arsed to fit a new lever and mech. Probably not til after winter now! 1×9 on the road is fine though. So yeah almost dead for me, I hate the bloody things. Don’t really do much in the way of climbing on mtbs anyway, it’s all about the dh!Posted 4 years agoscotroutesSubscriber
Not on my bikes. Properly set up they are almost a “fit and forget” component. The only issue I seem to have is in icy snow whereupon they may freeze up. Chances are that the rear mech freezes up first though. Hence I run an Alfine on my fatbike(and even then it’s set up as 2×11).Posted 4 years ago
You’ve got to remember that this is STWland. i.e. it’s not representative of what’s going on across the UK as a whole.
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