Had a go at fitting an Invisiframe for the first time last night and I now see why shops charge so much if they do it at all!

Read the instructions, got set up and took on the fit as per instructions, it said start with right chainstay as its the smallest piece… 2 hours later and I’m ready for the piece to go in the bin. At this rate I might finish fitting it by Jan 2021!

Rant-ish over

You cannot use too much soapy water. My biggest mistake with the first ever kit was trying to keep it dryer so it would stick.

Get it wet, then a bit wetter than than. Also wet the frame and your fingers.

It’s time consuming, but I actually find it quite absorbing and satisfying. Bit like wheel building.

My strategy was to only buy bikes that Lee hadn’t done kits for yet, so he had to fit it himself.

If you’re in the northwest this chap is worth a look. The finish is exceptional and whatever stuff he uses is really tough. My three year old bike still looks pretty fresh.

https://snakeskincustom.co.uk/

I’m sure it’s perfectly functional, but the edges on that snakeskin look hand cut compared to smoother lines from invisiframe

I enjoyed it. If I did it again I would be better at it as I’d know to use lots more soapy water.

I have used Shack Wrap before who where excellent but are quite small so you may have to wait a few weeks, most recently bike just got the shop to Invisiframe as I wanted to ride after collection. I just don’t have the time to even attempt it I hardly have the time to ride so for me money well spent.

shop fitting is indeed money well spent but i had no issues with a clean frame. I wouldnt even attempt it on something that had been ridden

I def had enough soapy water on the patch and bike, I think this is what actually gave me the issue. As my stand holds the bike slightly nose down, the lowest point of the patch didnt wanna seem to stick as maybe too much soapy water had run down to it and then because of an internal cable routing port had a funny shape it kept getting air bubbles and I entered a battle of removing air bubbles in that bit, but because I did it quite aggressively the piece would slip or another bubble would appear in the opposing corner!

But… have just out to survey the disaster and its fine, the rest of the frame actually looks easier to fit due to flatter surfaces with less funny cable ports.

I’ve done 4 or 5 of these now and I stopped using soapy water and just went with water in the spray bottle and I’ve found it much better since. I spray a lot on both the part of the frame and both sides of the invisiframe piece and just keep lifting and working out the bubbles. Any stubborn bits on the edges that won’t stick down I just hold them down for a bit until they eventually do.
It’s time consuming but well worth doing IMO as the frame stays looking good. My old Capra still looked in mint condition a few years later and that bike had a very tough life.

Lots of gentle strokes with the squeegee rather than heavy forceful ones.

If the edge won’t stick, just keep going with the squeegee, it will eventually.

I use soapy water, but it really isn’t very soapy at all. I think the soap is only there to reduce surface tension of the water.

Warm room, warm bike and warm tape all help as well.

Having done a frame with invisiframe and then another with Heli tape, I’d take the invisiframe next time. As others have said, if you get it wet enough you have time to get it perfect just gently working at it til it’s right. And you get the hang of it soon enough. And although cheaper, my Heli tape was still pretty expensive when you consider how much you’re getting.

I actually bought some of the same tape that invisiframe use (well according to an article in Dirt magazine from a while ago anyway). I got it at about £10 per sheet from Amazon and did a few sections of my nukeproof scout yesterday. Although my edges might not be as neat as it would if I’d bought a proper kit, it’s gone on really nicely, looks good and cost me a fraction of the price.

Slight thread hijack, do people use water to apply heli-tape as well?

We just did our first invisiframe this week on the lad’s new bike. Used water with isoprop alcohol instead of baby shampoo/soap. It took a loooong time but everything stuck in the end. Once you’ve done one then next one will be way quicker. There’s definitely a knack to be learned of soap/alcohol level vs how much water vs size of patch, only learned by doing.

I chickened out and let 18 Bikes do our latest two. Its the first ones we have had done and figured that with what it was going to cost was worthwhile doing at the same time as they swapped the stuff around between the bikes.

I’ve done several. I found it easy. Clean the bike with ipa first even if new. A spray with soapy water in works best. Loads of water, careful with the squeegee. Doing it in a warm house helps.
If the edge doesn’t stick then persevere with a little press with your fingers.

Once it’s on, it’s bullet proof.

I found it rather easy doing it first time, a few minor blips but nothing really visible. Biggest issues were dust and poor lighting. I thought doing it in the garage would help but in spring there was airborne pollen and crap everywhere. 4 hours it took but I could probably do it in 2. Having some scissors on hand to make some slits can help a lot when applying on curves.

Use loads of soap solution and if it’s taking too long to stick, rather than reduce the amount of water you’re using, dilute the solution. All excess water will be squeegeed out so you can’t spray too much. I will be doing it on every new bike going forward.

I followed the instructions to the letter, cleaning the frame with Autoglym Tar Remover then using plenty of water/baby shampoo mix from a spray. Do it in the warm too. Also, gentle use of the squeegee to remove the water. If an edge wouldn’t stick don’t over work it, let it dry (overnight) and then just stick the edge down with your finger. Too much squeegee action just causes problems (slippage etc) and trying to stick a wet edge runs the risk of spoiling the adhesive. If there are the odd bubbles the next day then use a needle to make a tiny hole in the edge of the bubble and squeeze the water/air out to stick it down. Job done!!

If it’s not sticking a quick blast of a hair dryer works wonders

Update after night two, I am now just over five hours in, night one I only got the chainstay pieces on, night two I was able to do seattube, downtube, toptube, headtube left & right pieces and seatstays, only smaller fill in pieces to go!

Warm room, warm bike and warm tape all help as well.

I am cold garage, cold bike, cold tape and slightly cold me!

If an edge wouldn’t stick don’t over work it, let it dry (overnight) and then just stick the edge down with your finger. Too much squeegee action just causes problems (slippage etc) and trying to stick a wet edge runs the risk of spoiling the adhesive

This massively, I spent a lot of time on the first night trying to get edges down and then pieces slipping when I pushed too hard, last night once I had the main central surface areas done I knew I could leave it and come back to press the edges down, which I have just done this morning.

Seat tube, top tube and down tube where all really easy to do*, the faff does really come from pieces around internal cable routing ports where the kit covers the raised edges, such a faff!

*except for flipping the bike minus wheels upside down in the workstand to get better access to the downtube

I know no self respecting bloke likes reading the instructions (I have no self respect) but it does mention in there that the kit should be installed at temps above 18degC. Pretty sure I read or saw on their fitting video about keeping the frame indoors the day before so the frame wasn’t cold too.
Hopefully that is just to make it easier to fit and doesn’t mean it’s all going to fall off.

Yeah it’s a job for a nice quiet, warm corner of the house where you can’t be disturbed for several hours.

Did my second frame last week. Natural light is the most important thing for me.

My strategy was to only buy bikes that Lee hadn’t done kits for yet, so he had to fit it himself.

This. Cheaper that way too!

That only works if you have a frame worth making a template from! No point if you’ve got some unique and obscure thing in an extreme size.

Make sure you only use a small amoutn of soap in the water. I oversoaped and it didn’t work.
If youa re near Crawley I’ll help. I’ve done a few and its piss easy now..

That only works if you have a frame worth making a template from! No point if you’ve got some unique and obscure thing in an extreme size.

Well, I do try to be ahead of the curve.

Not so much these days maybe.

Dont use the squegee – plenty of water with baby shampoo at the recommended conc and use non linting paper towel to smooth over the frame. as the water / shampoo is pushed from under the film its gets absorbed into the paper towel and allows the film to stick.

Make sure you only use a small amoutn of soap in the water

Will def use less soap next time I have to fit one.

use non linting paper towel to smooth over the frame

This sounds like it would work, def had some pieces where I worked the water out and it seemed to get drawn back in!

Update: kit fitted, rode on the weekend and then washed the bike yesterday, found two edges which I didnt push down fully and now have slight ingress of dirt! I’m guessing heat with hairdryer, lift piece, clean out dirt and hope it resticks?

I’d cut them back with a razor

Yeah you’re unlikely to get them to stick down now, so cut the bits off.

I want some protection for my new fork but there’s no kit so looks like I’ll be ordering a blank sheet and cutting my own.