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  • Inline cable adjuster
  • covestiff2016
    Free Member

    Hi all

    Just after some advice. Recently fitted a new derailleur that doesn’t have an adjuster in. So I have a couple of inline ones in my tool box so going to use one of them.
    1. where is the best place to put it ?
    2. will I need to fit a new cable inner as surly by adding the adjuster it’s making the outta longer ? Or do I cut out roughly the same as the adjuster if that makes senses ?

    thanks

    tom

    iainc
    Full Member

    if you have put on a new mech best bet for optimum shifting would be to replace the inner and outer too if you can, using the old outer (assuming it is right length) as a guide for overall length of new setup, incl adjuster.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    As above, may as well change the whole inner and outer cable while you’re doing it unless it’s very new. It’s one of those jobs that you realize once you’ve done it that you’ve put off far too long.

    For your original question, depends on the bike.

    MTB’s tend to have adjusters on the shifters, so no point adding it in the loop from the handlebars, may as well put it next to the rear mech.

    Roads bikes don’t have adjusters on the shifters so makes more sense to put the adjuster either directly on the lever (older shifters where the cable exists outside the tape) or under the stem (newer ones with hidden cables).  I’ve got some nice neat Ritchey ones that plug directly into the shifter which is great as I can trim the mech without even taking my hands off the levers.

    What combination of shifters and mech are you running  that has no adjusters?

    will I need to fit a new cable inner as surly by adding the adjuster it’s making the outta longer ? Or do I cut out roughly the same as the adjuster if that makes senses ?

    A little bit of both. Unless the cable is very straight you’ll probably find that the curve needs to be a few mm more or less to get a nice bend.  Road bikes are generally way more picky about this though with short cable runs and tight bends.  MTB’s have enough length that a few cm of extra cable doesn’t matter.

    TiRed
    Full Member

    Put the adjuster either directly on the lever (older shifters where the cable exists outside the tape) or under the stem (newer ones with hidden cables).

    This. I have some nice jag wire adjusters that mount directly to the shifters. The external cables shift better then internal too!. Normally only a FD needs an inline adjuster as there’s none on the derailleur. In line RD is for on the road adjustment, normally needed only when a wheel change is done in a race.

    Some of the inline adjusters are quite long. Others mount onto the frame if your frame has external routing. Shorten the cable outers accordingly and use new inners.

    covestiff2016
    Free Member

    Hey

    so it’s a hybrid bike with shimano Altus shifters which are abit cheap and there is an adjuster on the handlebar but I can’t quite perfect the adjustment hence the wanting to use an inline one. In regards to the cable inner and outta both are fairly new replaced 4 months ago irrc.

    scotroutes
    Full Member

    If there are already adjusters on the levers then I’d learn to use those rather than introduce another element into the cable run. They’re doing the same job.

    covestiff2016
    Free Member

    The rear mech is a shimano Deore.

    jeffl
    Full Member

    Is it just a case of there not being enough adjustments on the shifter cable adjuster? If so wind it all the way in, loosen the cable at the mech end, pull it tight, tighten then adjust away.

    Sorry if I’m teaching you to suck eggs.

    covestiff2016
    Free Member

    No not at all. Always learning. It’s an odd one it just feels very vague as an adjuster. Abit all or nothing.

    covestiff2016
    Free Member

    I’ve had inline before on an old bike and always found them more precise than the one on the handle bars that was all.

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