My new bike (Sonder Cortex) came with SRAM G2 R’s. The rest of the bike is great but I find the brake performance underwhelming. What’s the best option for improvement? Rotor size, pad compound, or give up and swap levers and/or callipers to Code? Stuck with SRAM as I don’t want to fork out for new shifter too.

I don’t want to fork out for new shifter too.

You can buy separate shifter clamps, err, separately.

You can buy separate shifter clamps

Handy to know!

I really liked my G2 RSCs but the Rs are indeed very underwhelming IMO. I changed mine for Codes (RSCs) which are great. I don’t think it’s a pad/disc thing, unfortunately. Mine just had a really vague lever feel – power was OK.

At the cheap end, I’d rather have Shimanos I think.

The shifter clamps are easy to come by. I think I have a few spares if you’re stuck, but I guess so do most small shops?

Thanks for the info and offer Superficial. Not too keen on splashing out for new brakes after less than 3 months with the bike, so will persist for the time being and do some virtual shopping for summer!

Propain Hugene review on this very site today doesn’t rate the G2 RSC variant (which has the SwingLink lever) well, says it might be about the pads. I think the wisdom says larger rotor would make more difference than pads (180/160 is a bit lacking on a 29er), so maybe buy a 200 rotor to try 200/180, also unlike pads it won’t go to waste even if you decide to upgrade the brakes later.

Just changed the pads on my Guide REs from standard to Gorilla Brakes Semi Metallic Kevlar Multi compound. Absolutely night and day – so much more power now. For £5.99 plus postage give it a go – if they don’t make a difference put them in your spares pile.

My G2 RSC brakes came with the ‘Power Organic’ pads or whatever Sram call them, and the reviewer of the above bike could have figured out what pads came on the bike in around 10 seconds…. They were fine for really steep sustained slabs in Squamish, such as the one in the video below which is easily done at walking pace with these brakes / pads. Sure I had to squeeze a bit harder than 4 pot XT but the modulation was way better. I used to be a Shimano fan boy but I almost hate to say it but I really like these brakes. I’ve also owned Guide R, RS and RSC. I now run sintered pads again and don’t ‘need’ more power. If you can find RSC (or even RS) levers, they will make a big difference. The Swing Link that connects the lever to the master cylinder makes all the difference.

If they’re basically revamped guide R’s you should be able to get ok power out of them. What size rotors have you got? I used to run 200f/180r with Uberbike race matrix pads and they got me through quite a few uplift days with no fading etc. Not as powerful as the Code R’s I replaces them with but still not at the point you think your brakes are crap.

The G2 R is basically a post-2017 Guide R. They’re good enough brakes if set up right. What’s actually wrong with them OP? Underwhelming in what way? Stopping power? Lever feel? Modulation? Different problems require different solutions. Might need a bleed, or you could have contaminated pads/discs or need a larger rotor.

I think lever feel is probably the best way of describing it – is too much modulation a thing? Compared to the TRP Slate T4’s on my other bike I don’t feel like they have as much initial bite. I’m sure a big handful of lever will stop me but seem to have more control with the TRP’s, which helps with confidence. Maybe I’ll get used to it.

It’s probably overkill for a short travel trail bike, and there’s nothing long enough locally (Dursley) to worry about brake fade, but will give 200mm rotor and semi-metallic Gorilla pads a go to see if the increased power makes the difference.

I doubt contamination is an issue as it’s a new bike and I bedded them in properly and there hasn’t been a sudden change in performance.

With ref to other reviews, I know it’s just a youtuber’s view but also saw DailyMTBRider didn’t like the G2 R’s on the Ibis Ripley AF.

They do have a softer lever feel than say Shimano. I’ve got Shimano road hydraulics and they have a firmer lever with more bite then the guide R’s I used to have. My code R’s are another level through – I can stoppie either mountain bike at will with 1 finger using the Codes.

Some updated pads will probably give you a bit more initial bite though over Sram standard organic pads.

I’ve got one bike with Guide RSs and a new one now with G2 RSCs.

From new the lever on the G2s felt really mushy and horrible, like they need a bleed and the stopping power was WAY down compared to the Guides on the other bike.

I find the Guides occasionally need a bit of a fettle to keep them working well so before starting on bleeding the brand new brakes I decided to give that a go. Pump out the pistons, bit of dot fluid round the edge of each one and work the pistons in and out a few times. The G2s now at least FEEL sharp (not Shimano sharp, but at least as sharp as my Guides), I haven’t actually ridden the bike since to see if they stop any better but I’m pretty sure they will.

Hi, just looking for some feedback on this subject. I too have a set of G2 R that i’m struggling with. The back brake locks up fine with 1 finger but the front is not great and needs 2 fingers, i’ve tried bleeding it several times, sanded the pads, cleaned the disk. I can honestly say that the Level t’s that I took off had way less lever swing and more bite. I could live with the lever swing if they worked well!
I read that all 4 G2 models have the swinglink in the lever so i’m not sure if there would be any benefit to swapping the lever. I’ve not tried different pads so I guess that is the next move. Any feedback/suggestions would be great. Thanks!

correction…looking on the SRAM site the R is ‘directlink’ and the RS is ‘swinglink’….
it looks like around 75 € to upgrade, it feels like a bit of a gamble!!

I’d definitely try pads first. A lot of people complain about the SRAM OEM pads.

As others have said, the RS(C) levers feel a lot nicer (because of the ‘S’, I think) although shouldn’t affect power all that much.

Thanks, yes, I found that out this morning! the ‘S’ means they have swinglink. I think it gets the pads to the disk faster but as you say may not help with power. I have a friend with guides that are way better than my G2 and the G2 are supposed to have 7% more power. Will have to try some other pads. I was interested to find out if the OP had any joy with his…..

Race Matrix pads ? I found my Guide RS’s much better than my mate’s Guide R’s. Just much better feel with the swinglink.

If the lever pull is long and you don’t want to bleed your front brake you can advance the pads by taking your wheel out and pulling the lever a bit. Just don’t advance the pads so much you can’t get the disc back in.

Standard guide organic pads aren’t brilliant. Another vote here for Uberbike Race Matrix for a cheap upgrade.

Thanks, No stock of race matrix! they’ve got semi metallic or e matrix (same as race matrix but for e bikes…..) The G2’s come with these ‘power organic’ pads so not the same as the stock guide pads, would hope they are ok.
I tried doing the bleed and just using a disk instead of the spacer as suggested elsewhere, but it made no difference. I’m not keen on so much swing but if they worked I could live with it, its just having to pull so hard I don’t like.

I swapped out the pistons on my Guide Rs for metal pistons. Plus I run Fibrax pads. Plenty power for average skills UK trail riding.

I’m in the Pyrenees, we got big hills, and my skills are well below average….so I brake a lot 😉
I thought the non metal pistons were to help dissipate the heat?
I was going to try the lubricating the pistons with dot fluid thing, looked at the SRAM service guide and it says don’t get dot on the pistons! ha ha. It’s a minefield all this.
Will try some different pads. Gorilla won’t deliver (something called Brexit apparently) Uberbike want most of 12 euros to deliver. Resorted to Amazon (its prime day so free delivery on some stuff), they’ve got ‘topbrake’ ‘sommet’ ‘icreopro’ ‘jagwire’ (heard of them!) reviews are mixed as always, anyone tried any of them?
What about Galfer?
….sorry, there’s probably a load of other threads about brake pads 🙂

The G2’s come with these ‘power organic’ pads so not the same as the stock guide pads, would hope they are ok.

I believe the G2s come stock with “Quiet Organic” pads. Whatever were in mine were rubbish.

My recent thread on the subject: https://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/sram-g2-rsc-require-less-lever-pull-distance-and-force/#post-11911558

What about Galfer?

I’ve read that they’re good.

Interesting stuff, thanks. I didn’t turn that one up on my various internet wanderings….I’ve had a very similar experience to you although just the front brake that is the problem for me
Not sure if the pads in mine are the PWR organic or QUIET organic, just googled the code but no clear result. They are grey backed and have the code BC851 0H378 on them. The SRAM site says the G2 come with PWR organic.
Anyway, time to try some new pads for sure, next question is Galfer for 10€ or take the hit on postage from Uberbike and get 4 pairs of the E Matrix 😉
Where did you get the Fibrax btw? I can’t seem to find them

…just followed the process for reducing lever swing from the Sram service manual…haha crazy I know 😉 and it’s only gone and worked. My mind is blown!! Reduced swing at the end of the lever from around 40mm to around 25mm. Not sure if it has affected performance but i’d recommend giving it a go to anyone suffering this problem 🙂 P7 onwards

No Race Matrix !!! – checks stock of spares in the tool box !!!

e-Matrix are probably the same !

just messaged them on that topic…got this reply:

‘the e-matrix would be a good upgrade compound choice over the Race Matrix as it offers increased performance and wear’

…just followed the process for reducing lever swing from the Sram service manual…haha crazy I know 😉 and it’s only gone and worked.

They are very picky about bleeding. Most flip/flop levers are, I guess because the ports have to be on the side of the system not the top so it’s easy to get air bubbles trapped in places that Shimano, Hope, etc just don’t.

And as above pad compound (+1 for Uberbike) and rotors (I swear Shimano rotors gave a noticeable bump to the power as there’s more surface area to the brake track).

I’m in the Pyrenees, we got big hills, and my skills are well below average….so I brake a lot

Treat yourself to some better brakes mate. It’ll make riding so much nicer.

They are very picky about bleeding

No bleeding required. It’s what they say to try before bleeding, thought i’d put the link. Basically remove wheel and pads, put two brake disks (or anything similar thickness) between the pistons, advance all the pistons by pulling the lever then push them all back in with a plastic tyre lever, repeat 5 or 6 times and hey presto, less lever swing.
It really has made a difference for me.

Treat yourself to some better brakes mate

Just treated myself to these ones! Got them for a good price and was expecting a decent improvement on the Level T’s I had before, especially on the long downhills. Not quite ready to give up on them just yet.

Where did you get the Fibrax btw? I can’t seem to find them

Direct from them on eBay – they’re called cyclefanatics

just been out to test the brakes and wow, what a difference.

P7 onwards here:
assuming its the same for guides and codes but not checked.

https://www.servicearchive.sram.com/sites/default/files/techdocs/service_manual_g2_rs_and_r_gen_6205_rev_a_english.pdf

thanks for the input