I think i've had a cunning idea regarding my gear cables.

In the past, I’ve run xtr cable sets with tongue and rubber seal set up. It worked just fine.II’ve also tried middleburn cable oilers. They’re not bad but I’m sure less than half of what I squirt gets into the cable housing.

The wife’s bike shifts better for longer and runs full length housing on the rear. Now, it could be that it doesn’t get ridden as often but I’m fairly convinced it’s the way to go.

I’m now happy to dremmel out the cable stops on my frame and run continuous housing but my only concern is that as the suspension does its thing, the housing will migrate.

Here’s my potentially cunning idea!

If I cut the end off the old ferrule and slide it over the housing, into the cable stop, then drill and tap a small hole in the side of the cable stop, I could fit a small bolt or grub screwto hold everything in place.

I know it sounds like a faff, but I like faffing with my bikes. Any reason why it wouldn’t work?

Having been using continuous cable runs on bike with or without the guides to run it since about 2004 I reckon it’s worth it.

I have never done anything special just been creative with some zip ties.

Too much faff, how about a small cable tie either side of the cable stop?

If you get an o-ring, then put it round the cable, twist it and back over (like making an elastic band round something tighter) then it’ll hold the outer in place and keep it from rubbing the frame too much.

I like faffing.

I like the o-ring idea. Very cunning.

nice, only do the grub screw on one cable stop tho. Got a mmmbop with bolt on stops, fine until you lift the bike (under TT cable routing) then you pull the cables and instead of nice straight cable run they are all wavy probably not doing much for the shifting.

Dibbs have you tried that? My heckler has cable stops with optional zip tie slots for full cable run, you can’t get enough “pressure” into the ties to prevent cable movement (only gradual, need to rearrange cable every few rides), dunno if it would be different with your suggestion.

having re read your post a few times it still sounds pointless.

Do it, if you have a problem fix it.

http://www.sigmasport.co.uk/item/Gore/Low-Friction-Gear-Cable-Kit/PXW?gclid=CIjxw8nMwLkCFRMgtAodQGIAeQ

Expensive ? Yes. Worth it ? Definitely

Cotic’s setup is the best I’ve tried i.e. a full length out apart from an exposed section on the top tube.

I think I’d run with the zip ties approach.

Hmm none of the benefits of running a full length then…

Honestly never had an issue with cables moving etc. you can zip tie to the stays either side of the cable bosses and be fine. TBH that is probably overkill.

Cotic’s setup is the best I’ve tried

on the hemlock? The rear loop “migrates” I will give IA’s O-ring method a try. plus of course it’s got an exposed section so it has the disadvantages of both methods.

Used to use gore ride-on and they were excellent. Last batch I tried de-laminated in under a year.

Not really got a problem, just think this might be better. Nothing wrong with continuous improvement.

Jagwire cables come with a thin cable liner as well as the outer, so the actual wire doesn’t get exposed. It’s a bit hard to explain. Depends what it is you think is causing the issues with shifting.

Not sure there is a problem, I just like making stuff as good as it can be. The full outer set ups do seem to last longer before needing attention though.

I’ve always just drilled the stops and run a cable straight from one end to the other, no problems at all. Think the OP may be overcomplicating it.

My Soul stopped shifting after a run of Mabie in rain of biblical proportions. I have just gone onto a continuous run using BBB HYdroclamps, bit of a faff getting them in place, but using them leaves the cable stops undrilled. I rode it on Sunday and it shifted smoothly and flawlessly.