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I am man! Defender! Provider! Mechanic!
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trail_ratFree Member
found that today – with the airbox in hand – that photo , my pressbreak and various V8 airbox componants i have lying about
i should be able to copy that without too much dificulty.
its hardly elegant or complex.
do be aware i might hassle you for some measurements further along the line stoner. but it will be some way down the line when my wings are there to attach it to…. although IIRC my washer bottle lives there….. i do have a whole V8 donor though – ill see what it has for a washer bottle and maybe rob+relocate.
Tiger6791Full Memberone of my jobs next year is to replace all the hydraulic pipes and hoses before they explode
I have a 200TDI GenLR Pump to Box Pipe sat in my garage if you want it?
StonerFree MemberI ripped out the washer bottle etc. It takes up a load of space and fills the whole wing void forward of the tower cap. I replaced it with a small wipac unit that’s far easy to site and fill.
Do you have an original filter box or are you using an aftermarket thing?
As you say, not the most complicated thing to make. My measurements might be a bit out though as mine was bent to **** and it’s still not square, although it works 🙂EDIT: Oooooo tiger you spoil me! That would be very handy indeed. Let me check the part no. back in a tick…
trail_ratFree Memberoriginal box.
i thought i had the bracket too – ill have a good look about tonight as i was in a rush last night but it wasnt in or around the box of ancillaries :s
StonerFree MemberFound it! Page 466.
TBH I wasnt planning on doing the steering hydraulics. Do they degrade like the brake lines?
That NTC6731 isnt cheap, you should put it on eBay really!
http://www.brit-car.co.uk/product.php/88986/0/hose_pas_pump_to_box_90_def_fa389__trail_ratFree Memberthey tend to rot out on the steel pipework under the radiator stoner.
yep a genuine LR one isnt cheap.
mines will get a 29.99 shitpart when the time comes.
StonerFree MemberI wont look a gift horse in the nostrils, so yes please Tiger, v generous of you. Will PM.
trail_ratFree Member
Stopped raining long enough for that to happen today.
Its now living under a car cover with weights on.
Back to finishing off the bulkhead now that i can move in my garage again – engine and box took up an unsurprising amount of room.
StonerFree Memberhey, trail_rat, how’s that lump of rust of yours coming along?
Get a move on, we have to do some practising 🙂 :
mark90Free MemberLand Rovers near salt water. Wow that’s brave. Can almost hear the fizzing.
trail_ratFree MemberBeen painting .
Slow work.
Bulkheads blue.
Oh and i had to go to work for 3 weeks…..
Turkmenistan for a while then the north sea for a week over new year.
trail_ratFree MemberINdeed, eyeing up splandrovers series door comversion as the bits to make my pushbuttons not fall apart will be about the same price 🙁
dashedFree MemberI’m not sure I’m allowed in this thread, but took delivery of a new Defender on Monday. Appreciate it’s not old and rusty and needing work, so perhaps I need to give it 6 months before I formally request access to the thread?? 😆 Mid-life crisis and always wanted one…
cozzFree Membergood un
I bought a new one couple of years ago 18000 miles in and love it, no probs
trail_ratFree MemberI saw the one landy i would buy new…..
The heritage edition innthe mint green with the retro series grill , looks amaizing.
maccruiskeenFull MemberSo disappointed they didn’t draw a massive cock and balls on that beach
orangeboyFree MemberTomorrows entertainment is a new rad and Intercooler for mine. Well if the wind holds off anyway
With the petrol lower its got to be time to shop for what I always wanted , series v8
StonerFree Membertrail_rat – have you seen this thread on the SP kits?
http://www.landyzone.co.uk/lz/f7/sp-land-rovers-door-kits-273821.htmlPS I agree that the heritage edition looks nice, but it would look even better if it didnt have the “puma” bulge in the bonnet 🙁
trail_ratFree MemberAgree with you on the bulge.
I have seen that thread
Id love to pair sp lowers th rocky mountain door tops but alas- 300 quid for a pair of door tops is a bit rich in these times of oil austerity 🙁
CountZeroFull MemberI don’t know if anyone here read about it, but it seems that rumours of the Defender’s demise has been somewhat exaggerated, as Landrover/Jaguar have announced that production will cease in the EU, but will continue in the Far-East and Africa, as there are continuing and new markets there.
I’m sure that fans of these wonderful old vehicles will be very pleased about this. 😀trail_ratFree MemberWhich is great for parts but itll end up being like emerica for importing new defenders…
trail_ratFree MemberWindscreen cut out , seatbox prepped for paint and stone chip.
Bulkhead flaps ready to paint and hinge mounts in position to be spot welded in the morning.
Been busy installing the compressor i got for xmas into the garage propperly – that is putting it in a shed in the back garden so i dont hear it ….plumbed the old and new ones together . Twin hoses coming into shed. One into an oiler and regulater /water fillter and the other just into a regulator/filter. And on separate fused spurs so they dont have to both be on if i dont want much much much better than just the 24l . 7.5cfm , spraying has to be better it could only do about 30 seconds spraying before. Added a 100l 14cfm.
StonerFree Memberthat’s more like it you lazy bastard! 😉
what’s the compressor for, really?
I’ve always seen them as nice but not necc.trail_ratFree MemberSpraying of many things mostly.
I got given a little 24l job and found my self using it more and more for jobs hear and there , then i got a big one from the parents for xmas.
trail_ratFree Memberlotta lotta prep work for spraying when someones hand painted the damn thing in the past.
slow progress but thats the rear of the cab blue again. – twas brush painted limestone – seals an all …..
really easy job to pull the glass out – 16 philips screws , and a flatty to pull prize the filler out of the curved glass seal – then push from the rear the glass pushes out of the seal – pull seal out of window – to reveal the still blue window reveal under neath.
sanded the lot down till it were smooth – except the fist sized dent under the slider – it can stay **** it – its not a concourse truck.
its also marine blue now – as is the windscreen surround – not looking forward to fitting that again – cut the old perished seal out with a stanley.
Space is tight …… so far ive avoided getting overspray on anything but the floor…. – i can live with a blue floor :d
Need to pick up a new drill bit so i can finish the repairs to the front of the tub – my ti ni has worn off and i cant get the remaining “HSS” to hold an edge for more than a couple of holes – despite being careful not to heat it too much….. irwin aint dormer – my few dormer bits hold a ground edge beautifully – dont have the right size in dormer – yet – its on its way.
doing – (stolen from YRM)
– and industrial quantities of seam sealer…..
once i get the tube done and bolted down i could have a rough approximation of a “weather resistant” structure.
StonerFree Membernice – have you seen the threads/guides on refitting windscreen using string/wire and naval words?
I got close to managing it but broke the screen near the end – not unexpected given the big chip in it.
nice tidy and clean paintshop work space you;ve got there t_r 😉
trail_ratFree Memberi like to call it versatile.
its a garage of many jobs.
oh and its significantly better than it used to be !
trail_ratFree MemberTest fitting the bodywork.
Stripped it all back off to paint it. Pulled the steel frame out the bonnet , cleaned it up and painted it before reassembly and fitting the new galvanised and painted cappings all on the rear end.
Rear tub floors pretty grim – pressure washing blew holes in the alu where it contacts/rests against the steel. Due to time contraints and the fact that they wont be an MOT failure they will be repaired at a later date – Same thing with the rear most quarter panels – I have 5 months now to get it road worthy – and im currently sat in perth australia for the next month with work.
Reassembled properly now. all bolted up- all looks pretty good on the alignment front which given how much ive chopped and welded up this chassis and firewall has made me pretty happy , the proof will be in the door fitting i guess – which i will be ordering in a couple of weeks , brand new series conversion items from SP4x4 back in the uk. Still undecided about splashing out on rocky mountain ALU door tops but i guess at 49 quid for a glazed door top from SP i can order them for now and decide if i really need rocky mountains,folks say the RMs being stiffer create a better seal with the door frame and thus you stay drier- given my LR its due even in the pishing rain i NEVER got wet – i think its a rare beast that…
Need to do something with that chequer resh – chequer rash is for places you might stand ….. you cant stand on a vertical surface. How ever close inspection shows its holding that tailgate together. I might see if i can unrivet it and turn it over to the smooth side and rerivet- then spray it blue- or i may just spray it blue Till i can find another tailgate.
How she stands now in the scottish winter. hopefully not pissing the neighbours off too much since its progressed significantly in the last week from a heap on the floor to an actual car 😀 dear lord it is tall though , its only a 2 inch lift. I hope it settles a little as its still rolling on 205/16s and it will be 750x16s on the lime stone rims that are leaning against it once im done which will be another 1.5 inches height i believe !
PS the engine(a newer 200 tdi in place of the 2.5TD so needed to do some loom chopping) even turns over now – after i wasted friday looking for a black earth wire from the starter relay which goes into the wrapped loom as a black and according to my multimetre probing it comes out as a black with green trace. this is the “starter inhibit” wire according to my wiring diagram – not exactly an obvious one is it ! – it earths on the gear box not the bulkhead as my diagram says it should. I have not run the rest of the cables nor finished the fuel system so it wont run – and i deliberately kept it that way while im away and it looks like easy pickings – i also left the steering disconected in many places for the same reason – front wheels pointing at each other for a reason 😀
RiksbarFull MemberGrrrr. My 1997 300TDi with a Toad immobiliser isn’t starting. When I touch the fob to the immobiliser the LED goes from flashing to solid as normal, the usual ignition and pre-heater lights come on but the engine isn’t turning over at all. I can hear a relay clicking behind the dash but having dismantled the dash I can’t find any obvious problems. Any thoughts about what to do next or know a good Landy sparks near Burnley?
StonerFree MemberIs the starter and engine turning but not firing or is there just a relay click and no turning?
trail_ratFree MemberRelay will be the starter/timer relay.
Check with multi meter for power at starter solenoid when ignition in start position if its not turning over.
If you got power there and its not turning over then solenoids dead, if your not grtting power there your wiring meeds more investigatiom or look at your immobiliser.
I find it highly unlikely a toad immobilisers packed in before landie componants !
trail_ratFree MemberProgress hasnt stopped , theres just stopped being sexy photos….alot of what ive done you cant see , props/bulkhead brackets , clutch and brake plumbing/exhaust etc etc.
check my wooden windscreen.
plain old sealed beam units + wipac LED side and indicators.
i ended up aquiring a “newer” loom from a 200tdi to save me needing 3 diagrams to match up what i had/ get rid of the glass fuses PLUS trying to extract a badly installed non working alarm system that had been grafted on by blind pew and a hatchet. Plus all the melted bits from the eejit before me having big spotters on without relays.
Fitted a boomslang direct feed relay controlled headlight job – what a difference -well worth 25 quid – also fitted wipac LED sides/indicators/stop/tail lights in the hope of stopping land rovers famous “bulb dropping”
Oh an she starts as land rover intended. Turn key – wait for glow timer relay light to go out and turn it over.
I did get it going on the old loom but a series of wire shorts meant i had croc clips and wires all over the engine bay by passing shit.
StonerFree Memberlooking good.
those sealed beam wipac cans are more than good enough. They outshine my T4.Those lamp surrounds could have done with a paint though! You’ll just have to drench them in oil/silicon instead to get them back to black…
You need to hang some lights off that cow pusher dont you or else it’s illegal isnt it?
Saw a 15 plate 90 today. Bastard.
trail_ratFree MemberYeah i need to do something about them esp as the grills shiny black…..im thinking new surrounds might be the best option.
My spats have the same issue….. Thinking kiwi boot polish….
Cow pusher….. Who has one of them then , i just see my winch bumper….from whereupon the winch will hang
Stock on standard non relayed wiring seals beams suck….. On relays with direct feed from alternator they are the bomb.StonerFree MemberSimoniz tough black paint goes on the black plastic pretty well I found. Available in Matt and gloss.
trail_ratFree Memberah good spy , as anything else will likely fail to cover up the overspray primer from previous repairs to rear quarter.
i expect there will be a set of CREE leds hanging from the A bar before it goes on the road – jesus they are cheap now.
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