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I've got a 2022 Scott Spark. I was racing Ten Under the Ben on it at the weekend and the chain kept coming off, and almost cost me a place, so I'd like to fit a chain device.
The area around the chainring looks like this-

It's got a pressfit BB, with no lip to attach a chainguide like this one to-
https://www.orbea.com/gb-en/gear/spare-parts/cat/chainguide-presfit-bottom-brac
Scott make one to fit older Sparks that people seem to have bodged to fit the new ones. The problem is it replaces the nut that holds the main pivot axle in - my frame doesn't have the nut due to a repair, but a bonded in machined piece. So, that won't fit.
I tried putting a rubber M5 rawl plug in the end of the main pivot axle, and that holds OK. I had planned to bolt the chain guide outer plate (which is all that's needed to solve the problem) straight into the end of the axle. However, the pivot point is low enough that, with a 32t direct mount Shimano chainring, the chainring is in the way of the hole. I tried using a thin plate of metal bolted into the rawl plug to create a mount higher up for the guide but the gap between the chainring and the frame is too narrow and the ring fouled on the plate.
The bolt to the right in the photo above is for the shock, and doesn't have a big enough hole for the rawl plug and is recessed.
Has anyone got any ideas? I could epoxy a guide on but I'm not sure how that would hold up. Some other kind of stick-on solution that's reversible would be great but I can't imagine any would last more than five minutes. Most drastic and unrealistic solution is to drill a hole in the frame in the appropriate place but obviously that's insanity.
Hmm, seems odd that you would need one. Sounds like something else is wrong. Clutch engaged?
I have not had chains come off since I got a NW ring and a clutch mech, no matter what I do on the bike. There's a reason your bike doesn't have a fitment for one.
I have a NW chainring that's a year old but in decent nick.
This'll sound like madness to a lot of folk but I don't run a clutch and don't like them. Every one I've had seizes up every few months and causes bigger problems than the chain falling off. The mech on this bike was new in November, the clutch seized up at the Strathpuffer in January and having had the same on my big bike three times in three years I just whipped the clutch system out. The lever on the mech snapped anyway last week so there's no going back now.
Hmm, seems odd that you would need one. Sounds like something else is wrong. Clutch engaged?
I have not had chains come off since I got a NW ring and a clutch mech, no matter what I do on the bike.
This. If the chain is dropping then there's likely another issue, I can't remember the last time I dropped a chain.
I have a NW chainring that’s a year old but in decent nick.
This’ll sound like madness to a lot of folk but I don’t run a clutch and don’t like them. Every one I’ve had seizes up every few months and causes bigger problems than the chain falling off. The mech on this bike was new in November, the clutch seized up at the Strathpuffer in January and having had the same on my big bike three times in three years I just whipped the clutch system out. The lever on the mech snapped anyway last week so there’s no going back now.
Oh.
FWIW I usually run SRAM and haven't had to ever touch a clutch.
Yep, got to agree with others who suggest there's likely to be another issue. No chain device on my trail bike. SLX 11sp rear mech (4+ years old an clutch working perfectly - it's even had new jockey wheels due to wear), RF N/W ring. No dropped chains*
* Only time I did was when the chain was worn: it was just over 0.75% but laterally it was baggy as. Replaced the chain, resolved.
The chain and cassette were also new in November.
By nature of the riding I do, I ride in a lot of filthy Scottish winter conditions and that just destroys clutches. When I take them apart, they're covered in rust and even after a good clean and scrub, or even replacement of the plates, they don't last more than a few months once they've gone. The solution would be to grease them, but grease stops them working anyway so I whip them out.
I leave the clutch switched off on my hardtail 90% of the time and have removed it entirely from the Geometron.
I've had chain drops on my 9120 cranks with an Absolute Black NW chaining and SRAM PC-X1 chain. Not sure if this was down to using ring with HG+ tooth profile and SRAM 11sp chain, or just a result of chain wear making it a bit sloppy.
I've since changed to a Garbaruk chain ring, which have extra long teeth, and fitted a new chain and the problem seems to be resolved. Might be worth giving one a try.
No help whatsoever, but just to counter all the never dropping chains crowd - I've got one on my Kenevo and managed to drop my chain on Blackamoor the other week. Couldn't work out for the life of me how it happened
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If you’re going through clutches at that rate it’s likely that the rest of the drivetrain is worn too?
I run SRAM, never had a clutch problem.
By nature of the riding I do, I ride in a lot of filthy Scottish winter conditions and that just destroys clutches. When I take them apart, they’re covered in rust and even after a good clean and scrub, or even replacement of the plates, they don’t last more than a few months once they’ve gone. The solution would be to grease them, but grease stops them working anyway so I whip them out.
I would agree - my clutches do not seem to last *that* long - I always assumed everyone was the same?
As a sideways thought: an old Crud DCD or one of those extra derailleur pull springs from the 1990's?
but grease stops them working anyway
It does make a difference if you use the proper clutch grease. using standard, thick motorex etc does affect how well the clutch works.
if you get a pressfit-to-BSA adapter could you whack an ISCG mount on the back of that to hold the chain guide in place? it wouldn't hold up to much rotational force but if its just for a top guide it might be alright
Love how everyone has got sidetracked on your lack of clutch use.
Anyway, back on track - have you tried fitting one with a rock? Nice result at the weekend too, by the way. Hubba to the pair of you.
have you tried fitting one with a rock?
😠
There are some things on this bike that have tempted me to burn Scott's warehouse down...
5lab - it's a PF92 BB unfortunately, so adapters aren't available (the BB shell is already the width of a standard Shimano crank axle, so adapters + BB cups would mean you couldn't fit the cranks).
The solution would be to grease them, but grease stops them working anyway
Not for me. Mine was too stiff and I greased it with the luminous green stuff, it was fine. XT mech with adjustable tension. And rubber seals all around the housing. You haven't lost the seals have you? It was many years ago I did this.
I've also not had a bike that actually needed the clutch engaged, I do it for quietness, but I appreciate bikes may vary in this respect.
Solve the root problem, don't create more 🙂
but grease stops them working anyway
When you say seized clutch causes more problems, I assume you mean that the cage gets stuck forwards under suspension compression resulting in zero chain tension. This is seized needle rollers, not the clutch friction plates.
You absolutely need to keep water out and grease in.
What about a longer thin bolt that runs right through the main pivot to hold a modded 2017 chain device? Donthisnwithbthw cranks out obvs.
Chain line went to 55mm for 2022 so you could potentially leave 3mm of material of that captive nut chain guide on as a mounting face without it interfering.
Or keep the rubber plug and bond the modded 2017 chain device to your bonded repair.
Are the pivot bolts hollow or able to drill a 3mm hole through both sides? If yes you might be able to make a custom cage held on by two long M3 bolts through the center of the pivots
I've just had a look at your photo and I think I can see the problem.
Your entire front mech is missing!!
Might be worth popping a different chain ring on to see if that’s the problem. It’s a quick and (not super) expensive thing to try/rule out, especially as you say that the chain is new
photo of your ring and that frame repair might be useful too.
I manage about 3 months on an FSA chain ring with 12 speed before it starts to hook out and make a clicking sound on the chain release at the bottom of the ring. A year with a muddy winter of riding and that's likely a strong culprit.
"Bagginess" doesn't help retain chains
If you hit it with a rock, will it fit better? 😉
The main pivot is hollow but the same problem would still exist - the chainring would stop you bolting on the outer plate of a chain device (there's no room for the inner plate), and there's no room to mount a thin cage to the M3 pin you'd put through the pivot because the chainring is so close to the frame.
scotroutes - if there were any way to mount a front mech (and I know your prejudices against 1x) there'd be no issue here!
Can you not try one of those press fit to external BBs? Like the Wheels Manufacturing one? Assuming there's some room
At least it'll give you a lip to mount a chain guide?
Have you tried contacting Scott for advice?
"Love how everyone has got sidetracked on your lack of clutch use."
I think that's cos everyone is riding NW rings with clutches cos that is the industry solution to the problem - hence no way to mount a chain guide on a scott spark (or epic evo)....only time I've dropped the chain on the epic is when I forgot to turn the clutch back on. And the south downs in winter are pretty claggy too
I don't know which is the better option, spend a few minutes servicing the clutch every month, or spending hours bodging some chain guide mount that might not work
I suppose you could fabricate something that fixed into the crank axle with an expanding bung and shrouded the chainring almost entirely except where the crank is but would be a lot of effort
potentially MASSIVE aero gains, though - and it'd look grrrreeat 🤣
If it's for the outside only then can you fit a bash ring to do the job? Failing that something like the chainring on a lids frog bike or some folders that has a plastic retainer / chain guard sitting a few mm above the teeth?
PS don't know how bash ring would fit with the crank pictured above.
I'd glue something on, probably initially from a little piece of hardwood ply, less likely to do damage if it all goes tits up than making from metal.
Using glue on a frame freaks folks out, but I'm quite happy to do it, my bottle cage is currently glued on my susser as there's no mount.
I've done something along those lines in the dim and distant past, going 1X before it was a thing (outside DH racing).
CT1 is my current glue of choice.
Also , a STFU chain silencer should minimise flappage.
I've been thinking about trying one of those out myself recently, I also have a couple of sram mechs with dodgy clutch, otherwise perfect.
So looking at it from the underside it's got this opening?

With what looks like a clip and bolt on cover, shown from the side here:

Could a modified/custom cover be fashioned that puts a guide or mounting boss 'round the corner' and saves you coming up with a more drastic mod?
It looks like it might be easier to use something like the Specialized Dangler they used to do.
Or something like this attractive looking device:
OT but those 12sp slx chainrings are a horrible two-piece design with safety torx bolts - lost bolts on two different bikes, once up a mountain. Good excuse to bin it for a one-piece direct mount.
