Hope brake fanbois, you won’t want these

ta11pau1
Full Member
You should bleed with the pistons fully retracted or else you’ll have too much fluid in the system and won’t be able to push the pistons back in fully without removing fluid.

ive always done this on my code rsc too – but on the latest hope video, he leaves them with brake pads in so when your bleeding the brake the pistons/pads are pushing out as far as the can go – i think ill just do it as ive always done with others always pushed all the way back in then bleed block to stop the pistons moving – seems general consensus from who ive spoken too and you suggest the same too

ive always done this on my code rsc too – but on the latest hope video, he leaves them with brake pads in so when your bleeding the brake the pistons/pads are pushing out as far as the can go – i think ill just do it as ive always done with others always pushed all the way back in then bleed block to stop the pistons moving – seems general consensus from who ive spoken too and you suggest the same too

See my edit, he’s not actually putting pressure in the system when bleeding so the pistons don’t move out. But he does push them back in before finishing.

Well I’ve got a pair of Tech 4’s and some floating rotors on the way so I can see what all the hype is about.

I’m going to go to the top of a tall building and throw my Sram Code’s into oblivion.

Two sets of Tech 4 E4s have just arrived here. Let’s see how they do.

Tech4 e4, standard pads

No squealing, wet or dry

I’ve got a set of the Tech 4 X2’s on my Cascade. They’re bloody brilliant and much nicer than a previous set of Tech 3 X2’s.
I’ll be fitting a set to the Solaris Max when I’ve got some spare cash.
My only gripe is that I preferred the feel of the Tech 3 lever. Saying that though, the Tech 4 ones aren’t terrible.

I’m having a bit of drama fitting these E4’s. There’s barely any room for the rotor and they’re rubbing like crazy.

I’ve retracted the pistons a few times and the excess fluid has exited the lever. I’ve refitted the diaphragm and top cap without adding any extra fluid. BPC is all the way out. No bubbles coming out at all.

Once you get them centered and pump the levers they don’t seem to return at all. There’s about 1mm movement in the pads. Can’t see any daylight between the pads and disc.

Lever feel is solid and I’ve managed a few laps around the block but I can’t stop the rubbing.

It doesn’t help that I can only grab snippets of garage time in between meal times and dirty nappies.

Which floating rotors? The normal or vented.

I’ve got regular unvented rotors. Glad I didn’t go for the wideboys!

The vented ones are just for the V4s. They fit in there fine.

Somewhere in this thread there’s a link to some 3d printed tools to centralise these brakes.

For those that wondered how they work, simply slide over the disk.  Photos below.

The initial centralizing is easy enough, its then faffing about getting the pistons to come out evenly is the tricky bit.

A rotor straightener tool thingy is also a good addition to getting the system even without rub.

I’m having a bit of drama fitting these E4’s

I’d like to try the Tech 4’s to see how good they are but really, those MT5’s Privateer spec’d and even put the one finger levers on, they are so good for the money (though the plastic master cylinders are not for the ham fisted they are fine for the rest of us).

@simono5 the pics arent loading

how does it work? loosen bolts, put wheel in, put the block/tool in and simply tighten bolts? or do you have to squeeze the lever whilst the bolts are loose?

@oscillatewildly assuming the same tool I have (r3pro), as exactly as you say. Loosen bolts, put wheel in, put the block/tool in over the rotor and tighten bolts. Seems to work really well.

@Rubber_Buccaneer I have both (well the MT Trail version with the short levers running 180F/160R). Both are very good and I’d happily run either. I’ve only had 3 rides on the Tech4s (200F/180R) but they replaced Tech3s. The improvements are noticeable and they are more powerful than the MT Trails (as you’d hope with bigger rotors). The MT Trails seemed to have more power than the old Tech3s despite the smaller rotors. Both damn good brakes.

Anyone experiencing brake ‘warbling’ with Tech4 E4 brakes?
Mine were fine for the first few rides but after one particularly long and bumpy descent they now now make a noise like a turkey gobble at anything above walking pace.
I have realigned the calipers, reset the pistons but the noise persists.

Anyone experiencing brake ‘warbling’ with Tech4 E4 brakes?
Mine were fine for the first few rides but after one particularly long and bumpy descent they now now make a noise like a turkey gobble at anything above walking pace.
I have realigned the calipers, reset the pistons but the noise persists

Not specificially. But i had an interesting one the other day.

I’ve got SLXs on the Slayer… they’re silent….
I swapped to Guides, instant warble… (good term by the way)..

The disk/wheel was still the same, so it’s got to be caliper/pad related IMO.

I am wondering if it pad/caliper related but would have expected more reports of the problem if that was the case.
Going to swap from green (sintered) to red (organic) pads for the next ride and see if that makes any difference.

fathomer
Full Member
@oscillatewildly assuming the same tool I have (r3pro), as exactly as you say. Loosen bolts, put wheel in, put the block/tool in over the rotor and tighten bolts. Seems to work really well.

thanks mate – ordered! sounds ideal, takes away the guess work and faff, and as long as pads are coming out the same should be pretty accurate

do you have to pump the lever whilst this block is in? or not do a thing and just tighten the bolts?

Nope, no pumping as the block sits in the caliper really snug.

cool thanks sam! thats ace this will help loads for me having constantly remove/install wheels every ride

Apols that the above image didn’t work, re-hosted below and hopefully now OK.

That’ll work great as an alignment tool, not as a brake block when moving the bike with the wheels off though as you’d need to retract the pistons and reset them every time you used it.

Just don’t squeeze the brake lever when you’ve got the front wheel off.

Must admit this thread and a few of the other recent ones are swaying me towards a set of Hopes for the Slayer.

I’ve tried the V4s a couple of times on the boys bike and really like them. Whether i like them enough at the moment to lob in £250+ for a set i don’t know 😀 But they’re really nice.

I do need to look into bleed kits and process though

does anyone know if the wolftooth light action remote (hope fitting) works on the new tech 4 e4? im assuming the hope fitting made by wolftooth was for the tech 3 e4 (last version) but would assume its the same? any ideas? or any other brands out there that make a direct mount for the wolftooth remote?

It does not. Had to swap to a bar mount for mine.

I’m going to go to the top of a tall building and throw my Sram Code’s into oblivion.

@sharkattack – if you are throwing the Codes away, let me know…I’ll try and get to where they fall so I can use them!

does anyone know if the wolftooth light action remote (hope fitting) works on the new tech 4 e4? im assuming the hope fitting made by wolftooth was for the tech 3 e4 (last version) but would assume its the same? any ideas? or any other brands out there that make a direct mount for the wolftooth remote?

I contacted WT a few weeks ago and its in the planning but a date not committed.  I got the bar mount as per nixie’s point.

ah thanks @nixie & @simono5 – would have to be the bar mount version then for the time being – thats annoying!

Had to use the bar mount with my Wolftooth light action remote and the Tech 4 levers. It’s a good fit though and puts the lever in the perfect position for me. I don’t think I’ll bother changing to an integrated mount even if WT do produce one.

@<span class=”bbp-author-name”>oscillatewildly</span> It bugged me to start with but really its not that big a deal and I no longer notice. I won’t be changing it if/when there is a direct mount available.

thats interesting then – i know what you mean sometimes you are limited with movement/positioning with the direct mount options, at least with a bar mount you can pretty much find your perfect setup

EDIT : jesus just seen the price of them! i think i paid about 40 quid for mine a few years ago ha!

Might be a problem with comparability given theres so many different companies doing remotes, and I dont know if ,given T4 is a new lever type, and also its a hinged clamp, rather than the 2 piece.

Could find its only Sram or Shimano they’re compatible with, or rather one thats more often used- fox,RS etc. Boutique brands might not as yet have that option.

Yeah the full remote price is crazy now. Though at least you can buy all the parts so only need the clamp itself.

Going to swap from green (sintered) to red (organic) pads for the next ride and see if that makes any difference.

Noise is not as bad but it’s still there!

Going to remove the calipers tomorrow, check the frame and fork mounts are clean and flat, check the rotor bolts are all tight and then refit and align the calipers.

Noise is not as bad but it’s still there!

Red pads in my Tech4 V4’s are pretty much silent even in the wet.

Going to swap from green (sintered) to red (organic) pads

Green pads are organic not sintered.

Anyone experience of the purple ?.

Yeah I’ve got the purple ebike pads in my tech 3 V4’s on my hello dave…..so basically an ebike in weight, just missing the motor! I had been through the stock pads and sintered, the purples were supplied along with the sintered so I’ve used all 3, no complaints in the wet or dry, plenty of power.
I’ve got the tech 4 V4’s on the Privateer and whatever pads come fitted as standard to those brakes (race I think) have also been great, silent in the dry and wet.

@dove1 – my srams used to turkey gobble, but not had that on the e4 so far, just the weird whistle/buzz type noise which i actually like

however, my rear brake squeals in the wet until its dried off/heated up, tried brand new set of red pads, different rotor, calipers properly aligned, even if i get splashes of water off the trails (and its not raining) it does it, no idea why as the front is absolutely silent whether its wet or dry, that has never made a squeal once! (ive even swapped the pads/rotors around front to back to test) and it still squeals with silent front pads/rotor on, so something a bit odd with the caliper or frame i guess….but its nitpicking as the rear is also silent in the dry, and tbf it only squeals for a short while until i use it a bit

as for the pad alignment tool from r3pro that @simono5 is GENIUS! highly recommended, it makes aligning the pads much much easier knowing the caliper is in the correct place – i never usually do it this way and just mess with the caliper bolts but this has made me do it the correct way, it definitely improves braking feel and hopefully helps wear the pads more evenly – its also great as i always remove the wheels for car every ride/storage so sometimes catch the pads as im constantly inserting the wheel, generally means now the calipers always in the correct place as its tightened down and all i have to do is reset/manipulate the pads if i do catch them – clever simple little thing