- Help – What Nikon DSLR Lens for Himalayas trip?
The 18-200VR will be a super choice and only lens I'd take if I was going. Its quality, considering the zoom range is fantastic.
I use mine for weddings professionally and although I feel I could do better, for simplicity of not changing lenses and the time that all takes, I am able to concentrate more on the photos and get on with my job.
less dust gets to the sensor, not as much stuff to carry about, only thing I miss from is a 2.8 aperture from my (now sold) Nikon 80-200 F2.8 ED lens. As I couldn't hold it still and needed a monopod as a minimum to use that lens, the 18-200 is a blast and I am able to get more due to the VR bits in it, (eg in a church for "the ring shot" where you only get 1 opportunity to get it right), therefore, its a better lens, (than the Nikon 80-200F2.8 – which cost IRO £1000)for me anyway.
Used it on a D70 and it was superb. Now on a D300 and its still superb.
Unless you want some mega wide shots that is…..Posted 9 years agoCapt. KronosMember
If I were looking for simplicity I would probably take just 2 lenses… a 24mm equivalent and a 70-200 equivalent. I am finding this combination is actually very, very good at the moment (I am on full frame and using a Sigma 24mm f1.8 and a Canon 70-200L). I tend to find these cover most the shooting I do, so can leave the 24-105L and 17-40L behind if I want to!)Posted 9 years ago
Really like my Tokina 12-24 with D300, would feel that the 11-16 might be a bit frustrating when grabbing quick pictures with people in them. With 24 you are back up to 'normal' view,if you get my drift. Remember that polarisers will need careful use with ultra wide angle.Posted 9 years agoCountZeroMember
Recently bought a D60, with 18-55 and 55-200. My ultimate aim is a super-wide zoom, maybe a 10-17, and the lovely Tamron 18-270 f3.5. An 18-270 has got to be about the most versatile single lens going. And I love Tamron lenses, still got two thirty year old zooms with my old Contax.Posted 9 years agoLazgoatMember
I'll add my support for the Sigma 10-20 but make sure you have plenty of time to test it out before you go as I've heard that Sigma occasionally have qulaity control issues with these and some are quite/very soft.
I used mine on Mt. Kenya earlier this year and as long as you are doing landscapes its fine. Throw in some foreground features/people and the background starts to look very weired, like a set almost.
Also be careful with CP filters!
Have you considered hiring a lens? There is a UK based companyt hat rents out lenses, cant remember the name now. But could be an option.Posted 9 years agosimonfbarnesMember
Jeez! That's bad!
I thought this was surpising:
Our conclusion is that camera bodies, stuffed with an amazing amount of electronics, suffer from the shock damage that occurs during shipping much more than from actual use.
having dropped most of my Nikons and never seen any resulting damage except to the VR in my 18-200 Nikkor. But I'd not use a Sigma for the simple reason they zoom the opposite way to Nikon zooms – unless for some special application.Posted 9 years agomrmichaelwrightMember
18-200 with a good quality cir polarizer would be my choice if i was taking one lens.
If you can take 2 lenses then the Tokina 11-16 is an awesome piece of kit, i love mine. Be careful with polarizing filters on it though, you get banding in the sky which some people find off putting, i don't mind it though. It's robust as well although weather sealing may not be perfect. f2.8 may be useful if you get some of the classic low light with the peaks highlighted by the sunset type shots.
D300, Tokina 11-16 at 11mm, B&W cir polarizer. Demonstrating banding and for some reason some nasty jpeg artifactsPosted 9 years agoandyl46Member
18-200 and the 50mm (f1.8 I'll guess) for low light stuff or shallow DOF's would be my preferences for that body.
Just a little surprised at the pro who preferred the 18-200 to his 80-200 f2.8. Sure the VR is great for reducing camera shake, but with the smaller aperture, did you not need to up ISO's or use a longer shutter speed (which would introduce grain or motion blur from the hands)? For that "putting the ring" on moment, give me fast glass at f2.8 and a fast shutter speed (at most 1/focal length) to keep things sharp.
I miss my 18-200 at weddings when I'm lugging a D700 and 24-70 f2.8 and a D300 with a 70-200 f2.8 around the place and my neck and back are killing me. But the images are worth it!
As for a wide, I use a Tokina 12-24 f4, and it is pretty good. You will run into problems with a circular polarizer as discussed above, but its pretty distortion free at 24mm, which is handy. If you wanted really wide, shoot in portrait mode and stitch the images with about a 50% overlap. As long as you dont have anything too close to you in the shot, parallax errors are minimised and the pano will stitch well.
As a single lens walkabout solution, the 18-200VR is unbeatable. I use a D700 with the 24-70 f2.8 for my 1 camera/lens trips, but you know you are carrying it and you miss the tele end of the zoom range!Posted 9 years ago
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