I inherited a set of damaged bi folding doors (long story but they had been used for testing) which I have managed to fix. They were top quality so worth repairing and I will paint them soon. Anyway, beggars cant be choosers and they only have locks on the inside meaning you cant open and close them from the outside meaning on the below pic I have a door into the left (which is a separate shed) and will have to build another door into the “living” area.
Is there a type of lock that I could retro fit to the middle of the doors with a handle on the inside?

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Locking espagnolette?

Thanks Neil. Can I just fit to the door as is, and put locking plates in the frame??

^That is what I plan on building at the top of our garden shortly…

This arrived yesterday 🙂

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OT but do you mind me asking if you bought that or built yourself? If I am ever in a position to demolish the outhouse at the end of the garden I would love to build a small version of that!

The traditional style, for french doors with a external bolt, full height on the inside, that shoots into header and cill. Just need holes for spindle and lock barrel.

Modern style is a hidden fitting into a rebate in the door.

(Re-read your OP and not sure if I’m suggesting what you need?)

Neil. I think you are right. That will do the job. cheers.

@Ross. All my own work 😕

Earlier thread

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surfer: sorry nothing useful to say…but i hate you! kidding, well jealous of your space..

i wish i had the space to do sth like this.. I will be making us a shed, but on a much smaller scale. How are you finishing it?

whats your roof made from? Epdm?

surfer very “Grand Designs” down to the cute wife (*) looking whistfully at a door frame 🙂

* No offence intended

My daughter may be offended…. 😀

@Scotia yes EPDM. Pretty easy to fit.

Cedar cladding all round. I was supposed to start this weekend but forgot to order the Stainless nails so will be next weekend now. Plan is to get the outside done before Christmas. Start on the inside then….

Looks great but before you start banging siding, you might want to consider the rainscreen. You’re smart spacing the Cedar off the tyvek but you aren’t allowing it to breathe as your furring isn’t venting anywhere. If you do, bug screen the bottom too.
Tape those tyvek seams to improve air tightness and make sure you seal all 4 (6) sides of the Cedar. I assume you plan to apply some finish to the cedar as it presumably sits right on grade level.
Nice work 🙂

@Dirk. Mmmm. Only sure about the last bit, yes will be treating it once fitted.
Didnt really understand the rest 😳

Other side of the Tyvek is OSBF then stud which will be filled with 600mm Celotex/Kingspan then boarded inside (not sure what the final inside finish will be yet)

rainscreen info

We have to assume that moisture will get behind the siding. Chanel siding in vertical application will certainly allow for wind driven rain penetration.
If you don’t provide a drying mechanism then your cedar will suffer. If you only seal the outside of the boards then there will be moisture trying to drive through from the damp back to the outer coating which will either cause the finish to fail or see the boards retain moisture and mould/mildew behind the finish. (a few years)
Seal cut ends at ground level too as cedar isn’t rot proof like it used to be (a decade)

As far as tyvek,I’m pretty sure Dupont call for all seams to be taped not just lapped like with asphalt building paper.

I’m on hold siding my current project waiting for the semi transparent oil finish on my 1/8th reveal t&g cedar to get done.

OK thanks, thats interesting. I did plan to treat the cedar once it was up but now I will treat it before I fit it. My plan would only treat the external surface. I will tape the seams as well but will the 1″ battens provide enough of a gap between the membrane and the cladding??? Where would I put weep holes?

whilst there is an expert here, can i be cheeky and ask a question regarding the rainscreen?

I am in the middle of planning a shed for ours and like alot the modern larch clad buildings..was going to copy that and a bit of the design of the OP (as in flat roof, with pent). I was going to use horizontal cladding with a space in between each profile (with furring strips), but im now confused with regards to the rainscreen “system”.. I thought it’d be open at the top and bottom, hence allow airflow.. is this ok?

if not what do i need to do?!

want this as a finish: http://www.naturhousecz.de/sysrefer/102/6/164/domek-na-naradi-s-plochou-strechou-naturhouse-s5-wuppertal/

Certainly no expert..
Code here is 10mm for furring so yup, 1″ is plenty.
Furring strips creating a drying space are easier to visualise for horizontal siding. Your furring runs vertically on your nailing centers. The top and bottom can have the ends of the furring strips wrapped with mesh to create a bug screen. Aside from the mesh, it’s open top and bottom. Water out bottom, air in/out too and bottom.

Going vertical siding, then ventilated furring strips are a thing or 2 layers of furring.
Rainscreen is also an aesthetic facade over a watertight building which that link appears to be. Gaps in the material as the aesthetic siding isn’t required as weather protection

thanks DD! well you seem to know your onions! i need to figure out the best way to have ventilation for my shed – i was guessing to copy a little bit my house and put some in the roof – cant remember the technical terms.. do i need vents low down so that this circulates?

i’d also love to put in sliding door/doors..but worried about weather-proofing/waterproofness if i make it myself..

OP – did you make yourself the frame for these doors that you received? or was it included?

I fitted a set of these to our beach hut (have them on the garage doors as well).

The actual locks are inside so well protected from the elements and you just have the covers over the holes the ‘key’ goes through on the outside so it looks neat.

If it were me I’d probably put a couple of sets, one top and bottom at in the middle and at each of the folding points for additional security. Put them going vertically up/down into the frame.

Long url…

https://www.homesecureshop.co.uk/security-c67/garage-security-c72/asec-garage-door-bolt-locks-for-extra-security-one-pair-operated-on-same-key-p147/s159?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_term=garage-door-bolt-locks-for-extra-security-one-pair-operated-on-same-hs1829&utm_campaign=product%2Blisting%2Bads&gclid=CjwKCAiA3o7RBRBfEiwAZMtSCQfnRiC2bqgPgKYAPbK8tl7r8m7GYDdDnuGPrF1VzVbzo8DB81URPxoC4HsQAvD_BwE

We used this type of lock ^^^^^ on garage doors historically – bolting into the frame. Intention was to prevent the doors from being levered and peeled. Much more subtle than a door defender type install.

OP – did you make yourself the frame for these doors that you received? or was it included?

Doors and frame came as one. Took 4 of us to move the frame alone. Each of the doors took 2 to lift into place!

I am looking more at some type of lock as above (as oppose to the Espagnolette) on one side to stop the door flexing. The Espagnollete would mean that the hinge on the doors would move.
So if I add 2 (one top, one bottom) to the hinge between doors 1 and 2 on the left, then leave doors on the right locked from the inside then that will secure the whole thing.

OP – how are you venting? in the soffits are you putting vents? Do you have other vents?

Scotia.. Venting roof space? Soffit and ridge vent or soffit low and soffit high on a single pitch if you’re using insulation batts with a good inch minimum of airflow above the insulation and under the roof sheathing.
I’ve just been through unvented roof with spray foam and it’s a liability minefield in that the architect nor building dept want to sign off on it.
North Americans and scandis have been building with sticks for ever so they are a good resource for solutions and products. Wood frame buildings are relatively new for UK I think as far as living space performance not just sheds.

DD – sorry i didnt see this.. uhm im not sure.. a bit lost to be honest.

OP – have you finished yours yet?! Have you got details of how you have dealt with the sides meeting the roof?

Made some progress the last couple of weekends, power and light cabling in, now digging the trench for the armoured cable back to the main board in the garage.

Insulation and cladding arriving Monday but away the following weekend so it may have to wait. At least I can get the cabling in and maybe even get it energised if I can enlist the help of my electrician mate to do the clever stuff. Having power in the building itself will be a real novelty 🙂

Bloody heck, that’s a lovely build! 😍

That it is, great stuff surfer!

Thanks, its been slow going and our garden gets sodden during the winter so work pretty much stopped.

Few more pics now I have worked out how to post them!

Thats stud wall is to seperate the nice bit from the shed, keep my mower in etc 🙂

Just a quick update!

Power in last weekend and ring main working. I terminated it on a “Cooker” switch at the house end then a 6mm run into a separate RCD in the house main board. I like the thought of being able to isolate it from the mains when not in use.

All the tails in for the 13 lights, including 6 ceiling LED’s, 3 wall lights (all 9 dimmable) and 4 external LED’s in the front overhang.

Almost finished the insulation so ready to start the plaster boarding, this could be messy, never boarded before!

Pics once inside boarding done!