My girlfriend’s bike has a set of these puppies fitted:

The rear one is in dire need of a bleed. She’s convinced that she has managed to round out the little allen bolts that hold the reservoir cap on, but they look to me like they actually take a Torx key/star bit of some description. Can anyone advise?

They are Torx T20 AFAIK

Actually they’re 2mm hex,think you can flip the lever over and find another on the other side to try with a better allen key.

You don’t take the cap off to bleed them. There is a yellow plastic pot tool you use on those. I am on my iPhone at the moment so can’t get you a link but will get it in the morning for you.

Mister P, spot on, but unfortunately although I have the plastic pot I don’t have the little connector that joins it to the reservoir.

For future reference you do seem to be able to bleed them from the bottom up like a set of XTs. The reservoir cap takes a small-ish Torx key, I think a T10?

There is no connector, remove the screw in plug(and rubber o-ring) using a 2mm allen key,and the pot screws straight into the thread.

what coatesy said. the official procedure involves first bleeding from the bottom first then from the top. My experience was that bleeding helped but then changing the pads afterwards (even though they still had well over 1mm left) made a much bigger difference.

http://www.sjscycles.co.uk/shimano-sm-disc-br-m575-disc-brake-bleeding-kit-prod20048/

You dont need to remove the resevoir cap, just the bleed screw.

what coatesy said. the official procedure involves first bleeding from the bottom first then from the top. My experience was that bleeding helped but then changing the pads afterwards (even though they still had well over 1mm left) made a much bigger difference.

+1 to this

Took me 3 bleeds for the rear and 2 for the front to get them something like, upped rotor size from 180/160 to 200/180 and still only average at best, new set of sintered pads and can finally slow myself down with reasonable confidence now.