I’ve recently built up a CX bike and have come across a problem. There is a bit of foot/wheel crossover, I’m used to this on my road bike because –
I use a rearward cleat position, I have wide long feet but I have a short reach so many of my frames are 54-56.
This has never ever been a problem on the roadie, but I figure it could be a problem with CX! I’ve already had some dicey moments!

So I’m trying to figure how to fix it, I don’t want to change cleat position as I get knee pain if I move the cleat forward, I have some new wider shorter shoes but still problems.

What I am working out is whether I need a new frame and would this help. But I’m struggling with what I am looking for, essentially an increase rake, to move the front wheel forward without a massive increase in reach from a large frame
This is the frame I have. I rather like it so I don’t want to ditch it if I don’t have to,
I find interesting if these numbers are correct that the wheelbase doesn’t change much between frame sizes. Would the BB to front wheel change at all?

https://geometrygeeks.bike/bike/eastway-balun-2016/

Thanks for the help!

Shorter cranks ?

I have it on my small framed cx. Sorry, not an engineered solution but I got used to it eventually & learned where NOT to have my feet.

I’m already on 165, which with 37 inch legs is pretty short. I’ve used 155 in the past, but figured I’d not get on with them on the cx as I always felt the force generation was too high and short, so not suitable for off road. I’m fine with short cranks on the road, but use 175 on the mtb for leverage.

Learn to corner with your outside foot down?

Longer frame / shorter stem can fix it, I think a short stem is not bad thing with CX (if we are talking racing). Increasing rake on it’s own via a different fork or an angleset type headset is likely to make the steering less responsive which is usually the opposite of what people are after in a CX bike.

I have toe overlap (crossover) on one of my CX bikes and raced it as my main bike for a season, I got used to it and got familiar with foot positioning in corners, my other bike is about 10mm longer reach with the same fork/cranks and there is no overlap. I keep the shorter one as a spare and still happily race it without issue – the muscle memory for hairpins is there to avoid the overlap.

You don’t say with size you are on now but with the variety of fit styles I am sure you’d be able to find a frame slightly longer and make it work if it bothers you.

Poor frame design.

Some companies are much worse than others, especially in small sizes. Genesis seem particularly prone in my experience, although by no means the only ones.

I’m on a 56, I could definitely get away with a larger frame, 58 maybe, my stem is 100 but could probably swap to an 80 without too many issues.

I’m also trying to convince myself not to get a carbon frame, I’m so used to carbon frames on the road the alloy feels very heavy and not as responsive!

Same issue on my medium Norco but really don’t find it an issue when racing or riding offroad.
Only times I notice it is when bumbling around slowly on paths etc where you tend to be cornering fairly tightly but with level pedals. Anything faster and your outside foot is down.

I’m already on 165, which with 37 inch legs is pretty short

You’ve got a 37″ inseam! How frikkin’ tall are you??? and when you say wide & long feet, are we talking clown proportions here?

When are you having these issues as you shouldn’t be cornering with the opposite foot to direction of turn anywhere past about 5 o’clock otherwise you’re just asking for trouble, even if you’re cornering with the cranks parallel to the ground at slow speed overlap shouldn’t be a massive issue.

I get this on my commuter bike, with tight cornering in the urban environment – stuff like manoevring through static traffic and so on. I just got used to the right foot positioning, still have the bike after ten years, it’s no longer a problem.

it’s a foot size issue. The geometry looks very standard for a 56 frame. I know I like to have my feet level off-road a lot of the time when not pedalling, and “toeclip overlap” as it is termed, can be an issue. I suspect that once you’ve ridden a while, you’ll not have problems. Slow speed manouevers in the car park excepted 😉 . Then just keep the outside foot down.

I doubt another frame would be any better I’m afraid. Larger might help, but size on top tube and body reach, otherwise you’ll have more weight on the back and the bike won’t handle as well.

My pub bike has quite a bit of toe overlap. It’s fixed wheel as well, so in theory this could present a problem. In practice it doesn’t often happen, mostly when trackstanding at lights.

I’ve no idea of practical but would an eccentric BB help?

Your 56 Balun has S/R of 558/379

You could try the canyon inflite (to pick at random) which has S/R of 547/388 i.e. ~10mm longer and lower, so 1 more spacer puts the bars at the same height with the wheel 10mm further away therfore might feel the same as your current bike with a 90mm stem assuming same fork etc.

Linky: here

Thanks chaps. I have really really long legs and a short body. 6’1 with 37 inseam, so short reach and long legs!

I’m going to have a look at the frame side of things, I’ve found a 58 Paul Milnes carbon frame, any good?

I know a lady that sent a Milnes CX back as not fit for purpose due to toe overlap. You need to compare dimensioned drawings.

Basically poor design – I made my 5ft 5in Mrs a frame with no overlap (size 7 feet, 175 cranks) and it is just in the detail – smidge off the head angle, bit off the stem, short fwd reach bars all add up.

Have you got short arms as well? I’m an inch or so taller than you with the same legs but also comedy arms + 47 feet and rode 62cm CX bikes with 59 or 60 tt and 110 or 120 stems (and 180 cranks!).
Never had a toe overlap issue at all. Without seeing a picture it just sounds like your bike is too small.

Would riding flats and intermittently adjusting foot position fore/aft work? Might be worth a try

Is it a big deal outside of racing? I remember the first time I encountered toe overlap – CX bike (for JRA), looking at it in horror that I’d bought something so fundamentally misshapen. You then ride it for a bit and realise the minimal steering inputs it takes to ride a bicycle and it’s a non-issue.
It’s true if you’re putting it between the tapes it’s not ideal, tight turns and throwing the bike hither and yon it’s not really a feature you’d want.

Thanks for the info on the Milnes, I’ll avoid that!

I guess it isn’t an issue unless I have raced, I’ve only nearly fallen once!