Hardtail Choices

Current hardtail is a Santa Cruz Chameleon running 29” wheels and 140mm forks. It feels a bit dead.

Climbs fairly well, descends fairly well but just feels heavy and dead. Not a particularly fun bike. I’ve got a set of the 27.5” dropouts so could try and run it as a mullet and see if it livens things up a bit.

Another option is to get rid I of the Chameleon and build up another bike, whatever I got would need to be UDH compatible as I’ve no intention of switching back from T-Type shifting. Would be looking for a something around 130mm-140mm travel.

Any suggestions for frames that would fit the bill?

Yeti ARC or Orbea Laufey and sell the parts?

I thought the Chameleon was known for feeling rather harsh/dead?

I never knew that before I bought it but it definitely feels that way.

The Yeti looks interesting but a bit on the pricey side.

Like many, I guess, I always wanted a Yeti back in the early 90’s but could never afford one, maybe now’s the time!

I’m no expert on hardtails but I love my on one scandal. You can pick them up cheaply to test them out.

In true STW style of recommending what you own

i went for an identiti aka over a chameleon for my last hardtail purchase for similar reasons mentioned, chameleon didn’t feel alive enough for me, not once have I wished I’d bought something else or felt the need for a change

i don’t know enough about UDH to know if it’s compatible or not but I’m sure it’d be easy to find out if you didn’t know already

“i don’t know enough about UDH to know if it’s compatible or not but I’m sure it’d be easy to find out if you didn’t know already”

Quick and easy answer is nope.

Identiti have a proprietary sliding dropout arrangement so no UDH there.

Get a steel frame. Can’t recommend my Orange p7 highly enough, what a great bike. Mate has one too and he loves his. Most definitely doesn’t feel dead, completely the opposite, springy.

If you can still find a previous model year Yeti ARC for a good price (Biketart still had some), that would be my choice. Literally only a graphics change and they are very light on the graphics anyway.

That’s what I have and it is without question the best hardtail I have ever owned. Light, comfortable, great geometry. Plus it’s just about as affordable a way into a Yeti as you can get. Being a rider of a certain age, I have always wanted a Yeti and it hasn’t disappointed.

The only slight drawback is a pressfit BB but I have run both 24mm and 29mm spindles in mine and they have been totally silent. Not nearly as bad as I feared before I took the risk.

It is something of a modern classic.

On the mullet question, in my experience it makes very little difference. It won’t be the answer to your quest for something more lively. In fact it can feel slower in the wrong circumstances. I have a mullet set up on my Bronson and whilst I love that bike it really only comes alive when being chucked around. For trail riding the 29er rolls better. In fairness if I had to summarise the mullet experience it would be fairly indifferent. It really doesn’t make very much difference at all. Not so amazing that I am an evangelist. Not dreadful either. Just different rather than better or worse and unlikely to breath new life into your current bike to the extent that it will change your mind on wanting to change it.

Transition Transam?

Or latest Bird hardtails, not sure if the forge has udh but the newer zero does I believe

Another ARC vote here. Outstanding bike imho

Cotic Solaris…. Feels fantastic.  Previous bikes were a Stanton slackline 631and ti 456.  The cotic is the best yet.   Not a fair comparison but….. Bike tech moves on and improves

The ARC is a ridiculous price. Is it that good or is it predominantly brand tax? If the former, what is it that justifies the full sus pricing? Genuine questions from someone who predominantly rides hardtails. Current one being a Titus Fireline.

In true STW style of recommending what you own

Rå .410

I would go something like this:https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/285891445763?itmmeta=01HZY1MXQC3PHT9DRSHM7Y4F61&hash=item4290754403:g:P5QAAOSwHqVmXh3s&itmprp=enc%3AAQAJAAAAwEGKxnCT1LNQ%2FiMWCK46TXtBFvduVPRSj7Y2Qfv3KeRTsZlXMMS0st5qgWAtS%2F5q9WwNg0j%2B%2BxhLgNgVFY68nW%2B43SpAShJhOwZmhz6Gd4cU2QaEDcEThUHiBMEXCzlWjPEDCozA20LDr04%2Bk%2BtzJ6oVlNIFpa2gh5QC%2BR7The65C6CUXv4%2BBh6XY4EIGogNCxYOVdgIs6q5Ww138LKgNxU24GDN5boIwsSSPKu7%2BopOvpIo1Gp0f5AQ1TYUmWw8DA%3D%3D%7Ctkp%3ABk9SR-Lb08H_Yw

The Rå looks pretty interesting, definitely one to think about.

The Yeti is pricey but might be able to do it on cycle to work where it wouldn’t be so bad. It looks like Biketart are sold out of the older models.

The Solaris I’ve discounted due to the lack of UDH, not sure why Cotic didn’t go with that on the newer models, in my opinion going back to normal AXS would be a backwards step. Shame really as I had a Solaris Max and quite liked it.

Spot Rocker?

In true STW style of recommending what you own

Production Privée Shan GT.

Mine’s also 29″ wheels and 140mm forks, feels great. Obviously everyone is different, it’s all subjective etc etc but still… ticks all your boxes I think.

To me the ARC just looks a bit like one of those generic Chinese carbon frames that used to be kicking about

If I were spending a couple of grand on a frame, it would  be a new Gen4 Stanton Switch9er titanium

Dunno about UDH though

Stanton aren’t UDH yet, but it’s coming I believe – I’m interested in the Sedona and it’s apparently going to be available in sliding dropout and UDH eventually. Dunno how soon, although I’d guess they are working on getting a UDH option for all their range, rather than just one model.

Otherwise, Pace 429 maybe? Guy Kesteven loved it, but y’know… 🙂

Bird Forge is definitely UDH and I think Banshee Paradox is too.

Kingdom Vendetta X3 is UDH – worth a shout?

Pace 429 maybe?

Good shout, I never even thought about Pace.

Guy Kesteven loved it, but y’know… 🙂

Who’d have guessed!

The ARC is definitely not an open mould frame. The cable guides etc are 100% Yeti and work well.

It was worth every penny of the £1,100 I paid on clearance for the frame and I am running T-Type quite happily on it but I agree that the full price is difficult to justify.

It is however an outstanding bike.

I don’t know anybody that has ridden one that wouldn’t agree. As ever there are many armchair critics that haven’t.

But the price is what you are willing to pay. Cycle to work makes it remarkably affordable with 12 months interest free thrown in if that is possible for you.

X2 for a Pace, mine is ace and certainly doesn’t feel dead. It’s like a giddy puppy next to my fs!

@notmyrealname

What type of riding are you doing?

What size frame are you riding?

How much do you weigh?

The Chameleon is a light frame and I thought the recent ones were less stiff than the older models?

I really like my Moxie – it’s definitely not light but it has a certain smoothness to it, it’s not an old school super compliant steel frame but it takes the edge off all the bumps and buzz whilst still doing what you tell it, even with the leverage of a big fork out front.

But it’s not UDH so please ignore me. No shifting annoyance with mine though as the sliding dropouts make it a great singlespeed!

Bird Forge is definitely UDH

Yes it is. There will be at least 1 transmission forge on display at Tweedlove next weekend. Come see us if you’re about!

I’d reccomend my one one hello Dave.

Just in general as it doesn’t match your t type requirements. Or for requirements.

Why is t type shifting  better?

My aluminium chameleon 7 is far from dead feeling, comfy, pretty compliant and lively, especially with the dropouts wound all the way in.

Maybe it’s just the 8’s that are a bit pants?

if you can tell the difference in ride feel between chameleon 8 and 7 you’re a more sensitive soul than i. SC looked after me very well when the rear dropout failed on my nearly five year old one and replaced it with a new one. it’s no more or less compliant IME.

i bought two sets of wheels for my chameleon so could do back to back ‘testing’. 27.5+ on the front is a waste of time. i’d agree that mullet is different but not necessarily better or worse. if you want a bike that turns in more quickly and aren’t too worried about hooking the back end up on chunky stuff mullet works very well. of course you can run a lower pressure in a fatter tyre and get a bit more cushioning, or even spring if you’re looking for a livelier ride but in that case i would recommend an insert.

another option on the chameleon is 29+. i haven’t ridden it but i have tested fit with a 29 3.0 tyre and there’s plenty enough clearance.

what wheels, tyres and setup are you running OP? wheels can make a massive difference to the way a bike responds IMV. i run newmen  sla30 wheels. light and tough as hell. highly recommend.

i also have a kona honzo ESD as a geared bike (the SC is SS). heavy in stock build but it’s great fun to ride.

if you’re not single speeding though there’s a ton of choice out there. ‘hardtail party’ on utube is worth a look.

i got back on the SC on friday after about 3 months of riding the kona exclusively. reminded me that SS is hard work but it was nice to be back on the lighter build. the lack of weight and the other differences just makes the bike handle differently and it turns out that different can be fun. 🙂

Pipedream Sirrius or Moxie depending on what you want to do with it.

Some interesting points there @Del

I’ve read somewhere that running the 27.5” dropouts with a 29” rear wheel can improve the feel so I’ll give that a try first. Failign that I’ll ask around and see if any mates have a 27.5” wheel I can try out. I’m currently running some Hunt XC wheels and Ground Control tyres so a pretty light set-up. I think the Chameleon is a pretty hefty frame, IIRC it’s about the same weight as my old Solaris Max.

As much as I like new bikes, I’d rather not change the Chameleon as I quite like it so I’ll try a few things before I decide to get rid.

Edit: quick question…what’s the Fox equivalent of a Pike fork?

34.

Thought it was but just wanted to check.

Moving to something like that rather than the current Yari could drop a chunk of weight and maybe liven things up a bit.

I like my BFEMax, but the long chain-stays probably wouldn’t work for what you are looking for.

Have you considered your tyre choice – putting on some lighter and / or lower profile tyres might give you the pep you are looking for?

A Stif Squatch fits all your requirements. I would have bought one if the Ragley Big Al wasn’t such great value.

I have a XL Chameleon 8 and don’t find it dead at all. Mine is setup up with a 140mm Lyrik and big wheels – 35mm inner width rims, onyx vesper, Assegai/DHR2.  I have a 20mm rise stem and 50mm rise bar with 30mm of spacers to get the bars up as high as I can.

I (& lots of other locals it seems) am a big fan of steel hardtails. My FS hardly turns a wheel these days as every ride is more fun on mine.

I’m currently on an NS eccentric from the CRC sale. Still lusting after a bird forge with the TVR style flip paint though 🙂

Very happy with my ARC, bought on a deal last year.  Runs Fox 34s, XT/R and a rigid post – so I’m at the XC end of things.