So I finally have all the bits I require to build up my new bike. Lets not mention that I ordered the wrong length cranks and they’re going back to be swapped. I thought I’d start with my wheels and get them setup first, so I can then get a rolling chassis up, while I wait in the right cranks arriving. However, while ploughing up and down the swimming pool this morning, wondering if I still actually own a torque wrench or not, I suddenly though I don’t know which threads to grease, slip, grip or lock.

Do I grease the threads on the cassette and rotor lock nuts, or is the 40Nm torque all that’s required? The bottom bracket appears to have yellow gunk on the threads, is that enough? What grease do I use on the seat post? Do I actually need copaslip for anything…? 🤯

Is there a web site that tells you all this stuff…?

Cheers,

What’s the bike frame and cranks made of?

Grease what moves, use antiseize or threadlock for threaded fasteners. Grip paste is mainly for carbon.

Antiseize for any fastener that might get stuck and is unlikely to move or sees primarily tightening forces, e.g BB and pedal threads, and for things that are adjusted relatively frequently. Lock what’ll hurt you or cause a lot of hassle if it slips, and which sees vibration or loosening forces. Thread locker normally has some antiseize qualities.

For BB I would use antiseize. For rotor bolts thread locker. My cassette lockring gets antiseize although that’s debatable.

@nicko74 frame is aluminum, forks are full carbon, cranks are whatever Shimano GRX are made from.

I was going to use the carbon grip paste on the top cap bung and the stem, as the steerer tube is carbon. Other than that, everything was just going to get slathered in whatever’s in the B’Twin teflon grease tube I bought a while back.

So it looks like I should also buy some antiseize then. Any recommendations…?

Threadlock anything that doesn’t have a secondary locking mechanism i.e. most things that screw into blind holes like crank bolts, brake retainer screws, stem screws and rotor screws. A stick of Loctite 248 is ideal – just wipe it on the threads.

Personally I am not a huge fan of loctite but it is often used and has no real detriment

For me if its a part you are going to remove often then grease. If its a part you are not going to remove often then coppaslip.

anything steel into alloy I copaslip but I seem to remember from here some folk think that can cause galvanic corrosion

So I copaslip rotor bolts, BBs, lever bolts, stem bolts, pedals. grease seatposts, seat mounts. Never had a rotor bolt come undone nor seize

There’s an awful lot of speculation and worrying about metallic anti-seize being a cause of galvanic corrosion. Rocol say it can happen though and show examples https://www.rocol.com/knowledge-centre/rocol_expert/anti-seize-and-corrosion-protection

I happen to have no copper stuff myself currently, using loctite aluminium and non-metallic permatex stuff. Never had a problem getting bolts out where other people had used copper paste though, and bless them for doing so.

That’s for all the comments. I would have thought you wanted anti-seize on anything that would get clarty, like cassette and rotor lock nuts, and brake retaining bolts, but you’re all saying thread-lock. Does that mean thread-lock is also anti-seize?

The bottom bracket looks like it’s pre-treated with something, as it’s also a new frame, that’s supposed to be fine to just whang in. Does anyone clean that stuff off and slather in anti-seize? I only ask, as I’ve got an old racer that no-one can get a seized bottom bracket out of, and I’d rather that didn’t happen again.

Are all copper anti-seize brands equal…? I.e. I can get 100g of Copaslip for £7, but 500g of Comma Copper Ease for £8.65?

Does that mean thread-lock is also anti-seize?

The ‘weak’ stuff yes. Mostly because it is vaguely ‘oily’ and sits between the two metals. It isn’t it’s primary purpose but it is a useful side effect.

Whatever you use, don’t forget to reduce the torque you apply somewhere between 10%-30% from dry, depending on who you believe

Are all copper anti-seize brands equal…? I.e. I can get 100g of Copaslip for £7, but 500g of Comma Copper Ease for £8.65?

thats actually the one I have the comma stuff.

Copper grease on BB threads as they get super tight and seize on. SRAM at least advise grease, but I prefer copper grease.

Cassette lock ring, copper grease and torque to spec.

Cranks, bearings, headsets and just about anything else that needs regular grease, then marine grease.

Hub internals (pawls, ratchets etc), light bit of oil. Some may spec specific formula, but light suspension oil or similar does me fine.

Lubing shock wiper seals externally, shock / suspension oil, pump and wipe off.

Carbon assembly paste for attaching stuff to bars, same with seat posts in frame (even if not carbon, still helps reduce torque necessary. Ali + carbon more so to reduce galvanic reaction potential).

Loctite on things that shouldn’t move but I only apply it to low toque items. Pivot bolts, chainring bolts etc. Anything that can rattle off. Huge 40Nm torque stuff like cassettes, cranks (GXP type), BBs, no. They spec grease often anyway. They aren’t coming off if you torque them properly.

And watch out with Loctite and torque wrenches. The torque spec might be without thread lock or specs a specific thread lock and using any or different stuff can change the torque requirements. I’ve snapped pivot bolts because of that.

Torque settings quoted are for dry threads, or for lubricate threads?

“When a compound is applied to a threaded fastener that will be tightened to a specific torque setting, the torque setting will require adjustment to allow for the lubricating effect of the compound. Failure to do so can result in incorrect tension in the fastener.
Correct torque settings can be calculated using the tables and charts below and the standard thread equation:
T = KDP
T = Torque (N.m), D = Diameter (m), P = Clamping force (N), K = Nut factor”

If you use a dry thread torque setting/ rating on fastners that are lubricated, then they will be overtightened.
https://www.molyslip.co.uk/products/anti-seize-and-assembly/copaslip/
Don’t allow copper grease / copaslip to come in contact with aluminium or magnesium.

There is not much on a bike that really needs high temperature grease/ antiseize. The back of brake pads being an exception.

https://www.molyslip.co.uk/products/anti-seize-and-assembly/alumslip/

Ceramic grease/ antiseize is intended for cars/ vans etc that have ABS ,Antilock Brake Systems, that can be affected by copper particles. Copper is a good conductor of electricity, ceramic is not.
https://www.molyslip.co.uk/products/anti-seize-and-assembly/ceramslip/

Henkel / Loctite say

http://henkeladhesivesna.com/blog/six-ways-to-keep-your-mountain-bike-going-with-loctite/

Boeing explane a bit about galvanic corrosion.

http://www.boeing.com/commercial/aeromagazine/aero_07/corrosn.html

https://www.engineeringtoolbox.com/torque-lubrication-effects-d_1693.html

Don’t allow copper grease / copaslip to come in contact with aluminium or magnesium.

@paton so my new frame is aluminum, are you saying I should’ve bought Alumslip instead of Copaslip then…?

look at euro car parts for copperslip. might be cheaper if you order online then pick up.put some on the back of your brake pads. handy to put a little on the back on alloy car wheels too as well as wheel nuts. you do not need much.