I’m finally gonna put the random bits to work and build up a Sonder frontier frame as a light-ish HT. I’ve never built a bike frame up but but I’ve done most of it before and the basic tools to change the groupset, etc.. I think putting a headset and crownrace (?) on the forks needs specialist tools. Is this just better left to the LBS?

I use a bb press. Failing that a piece of wood covering the whole area and a hammer works. You could make one with a few big washers and some threaded Rod

Hammer and wood works well. I’ve used hammer and screwdriver for crown race.

I wouldn’t risk hammer/wood on a aluminium frame,
Buy the tool or use LBS for peace of mind.

Either buy or borrow the tool to fit the headset (or pay a shop to do it).

Crown race – if it’s not already ‘split’ in most cases you can cut through it with a Dremel or hacksaw and just slide it on. Have done that for years without any issues.

To be fair I’ve always used a block of wood, a mallet and a wooden work bench when I’ve done it. Generally only on cheap ish frames though. On the 2 more expensive full suss frames they both had headsets fitted by the manufacturer before being sent to me.

I’ve got a relatively expensive hardtail frame coming – I’ve bought a headset press from eBay to pop that one in – will see how it goes. One of the 30 ish pound ones with nice stepped / machined drifts to press against the cups and big alloy handles so you don’t need to mess about with spanners on small nuts etc. Hopefully it does the job. Feel like £30 vs what the shop charge for popping in a headset only needs a couple of headset changes to pay for the tool.

I have used a bb tool that is essentially machined drifts with large washers, a bit on each end and a large threaded bar and they worked perfectly for a bb30a bottom bracket to be fitted to be fair.

Never use a hammer/ mallet, I’ve seen pro riders mechanics do it on bike build vids but they dont buy their frames with their hard earned cash and probably have a spare frame in a box just metres away. Threaded rod is cheap enough, why risk it.

Doesn’t the Frontier have an integrated headset in that case it should just drop into the frame?

Yes its integrated. Nothing to hammer in.

Lol that’s integrated

why risk it.

Because its not actually that risky, alignment is straightforward, but perhaps not for everyone

The silver metal pipe from a hoover was always a good crown race setting tool till tapered steerers ruined the fun.

A length of 32mm plastic waste pipe (longer than an uncut steerer tube)
A 32mm straight coupler
A 43mm straight coupler

To mount a crown race on a straight steerer, just fit the 32mm coupler to the tube.
To mount a crown race on a tapered steerer, fit the 32mm coupler, followed by the 43mm coupler.

Hold upright, with coupler(s) at the top.

Place crown race onto end of coupler (upside down, obviously)

Insert steerer through crown race and into tube.
Hold the crown of the fork in one hand, and the plastic tube in the other

Bash plastic tube against the ground, as many times as required.

Grin

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kh6AUa]IMG_20171007_205452980[/url] by belugabob, on Flickr

[url=https://flic.kr/p/2kham8M]IMG_20171007_205204660[/url] by belugabob, on Flickr

I know someone will be along to lynch me for saying this…but in the past I’ve always just cut the crown race. Never had an issue with doing it – although admittedly it’s usually on the small thin crown race that you’d get with an external headset.

Cutting a crown race shouldn’t be an issue with cartridge bearings, I have no idea why some cartridge bearing headsets still don’t have a split crown race.

I use a mallet and piece of wood to fit headsets and never had an issue, just be sensible about it. A large enough pipe to fit over your steerer will seat a crown race.