[Closed] Fitting a bottom bracket, what "grease"

copper grease

I personally use silicone grease.

Copper grease worked nicely on my P7 BB unscrewed no problem.

I always use copper grease

Any grease will do really, a small dab to stop the threads 'welding' themselves together.

I've used a general purpose bearing grease for many years, if you want to do it properly use something like 'Duralac' if you can get hold of some.

Do not use silicone grease, it is not for metal to metal areas.

if you can get past the stigma halfords bike hut do some really good teflon grease works a treat where ever you use it.

Copper slip

I've always used lithium or teflon depending on which is nearer to hand.

I've always been told that copper grease should not be used on aluminium due to a corrosive reaction.

I hope not, I've just used some on my partner's aluminium frame! I was under the impression that copper grease should be used on static metal on metal contacts (to prevent seizing) and lithium and other types for lubrication on moving metal on metal contacts.

Copper grease smeared on the threads in the frame (not the BB). Done for a lot of years on various aluminium frames and never noticed any corrosion but have noticed the ease of removal of the BB!

Another vote for coppaslip

Galvanic corrosion apparently?

Copper grease hasn't done any harm on my alu frame, and I've had it 10 years. It's the stuff the mechanics in the bike shop I worked in used. My BB unscrewed fine the last time I checked it, and that's bin in there for years as well.

it so doesn't matter...folk of course like to think that what they use is best.

grease on both frame and bb threads, just to be sure-salty water could get in.

As others have said, almost anything will do but I use [url= http://www.evanscycles.com/products/finish-line/new-formula-grease-35oz-ec005911 ]Finish Line Grease[/url] because it's what they had in the shop.

Copper grease will last much longer than ordinary grease in this situation and is the correct thing to use - why - because it is functionally better.

Anti seize compound - IE it stops things seizing.

Grease is ok in applications where the threads are removed often - but in places when the parts may be together years - coppaslip ensures it will not seize

The correct thing in the correct application

how so TJ?

For something filling a more or less sealed gap, I can't see that it can matter much.

I`ll agree with Tj on the coppaslip.

copper slip is a bit of cop dodging,innit?

Try removing a bb unit from a steel frame 15 years from now after a lick of basic grease.anti seize will probably save you a lot of graft.

martinxyz - Member

Try removing a bb unit from a steel frame 15 years from now after a lick of basic grease.anti seize will probably save you a lot of graft.

Funnily enough, did that with my commuter just last year, well, 17 years rather than 15. Came out a charm. Can't recall exactly what grease I used when I fitted it, since I was 15, but definately not a specific anti seize. TBH it's a miracle I greased it at all 😉

Quite right Northwind. A good quality grease will be fine for a an alloy bottom bracket in a steel frame. The only application I use an anti sieze compound (and not coppaslip but a graphite based compound) is in a titanium frame where there is a real risk of the threads galling. Grease is fine, so much craap about lubes and grease on here!

yup, folk do believe the hype.

don't...don't...don't!

Fair enough, but is copper grease okay to use for aluminium components? I've always used it but am a bit concerned after mention of it actually causing corossion.

If you've used it with success previously, then I'm sure it will be fine. Personally I would use a synthetic grease, but if you have lithium grease that will also be fine. Any grease or even anti seize is a thousand times better than nothing. Although some are better than others, there is probably no such thing as the wrong type of grease!

Coper greae is the correct thing to use. I have never seen galvanic corrosion with it. I have never had anything seize when using it

You said that before...but why?

Have you ever seen anything seize when grease has been used?

I did put a smear of copper grease on the threads of the resin adapter, not for anti-sieze purposes obviously but just as a bit of an extra barrier to water getting into the threads. I notice from other sources that copper grease shouldn't be used on plastic (although I'm sure I've used in on a resin adapter before). Should I dismantle and clean it off?

You said that before...but why?

Because HE SAYS SO!!!! Teh Tandom Jez uses teh coper greae so you all must teh coper greae!

Pjay I'd say.you should.worry less.

Alumslip is what I use - probably for no other reason than I don't have to buy it

http://www.molyslip.co.uk/anti_sieze_compounds/

Anti-seize is made to stop stationary parts seizing, which is different from bearing grease which is made to lubricate moving parts.

However, the usual indicators for using special anti-seize are high temps and / or pressure, arguably neither of which will be encountered on a bicycle.

I use the Finish Line Teflon grease, seems to work ok, but it is probably better used for moving parts. If I had copper grease to hand, that may be better.

Copper pipes should not be joined to iron popes due to galvanic corrosion, but there doesn't seem to be any warning about using copper grease on iron / steel, I think the grease is different to whole sections of metal being joined together. I'd think the same is true for aluminium / copper grease. A definitive answer to this would be good though.

shimano anti-seize is safe to use on just about any metal combination and won't harm plastics.

You could also use the Park one but that looks like it has a metal filler in as it's silver.

Failing that I would use a teflon loaded grease.

"I've always been told that copper grease should not be used on aluminium due to a corrosive reaction."

That is the 100% out, copper slip/ grease is used to prevent a corrosive reaction.
Ti prep is pretty much copper slip with a fancy badge and a higher price tag.

I would use copper slip on any statinoary threads where you have differing metals.

Cynical-Al, fair enough, I am prone to the odd bout of bike related anxiety but being a bit of a mechanical numpty it makes sense to ask.

cynic-al - Member

You said that before...but why?

Because it's better, I imagine, he's absolutely right to say it's the correct product for the job. Personally I don't think it's a job that really needs the correct product, but that's not an argument against using it.

On the other hand, I reversed my car over my tub of copper grease, so I've been using castrol moly grease without any worries. But best practice would be to use the right stuff.

Agreed Northwind, my point is just because something is the best for the job (and I don't accept that coppaslip is) doesn't mean the alternatives are in effect just as good.

:::walks past dishing out free tubes of autosol (to be used only as toothpaste):::

Copper slip or any decent silicone grease.

Not lithium grease as it can dry out getting crusty. Once it's dry it loses it's greasyness and can be washed out fairly easily, leaving not much in between the 'un-tensioned' side of the thread and allowing for water to pass and do it's worst.

also be aware that you should never use copper grease in contact with plastics unless you know they are safe. So if there is a risk that some plastic or rubber could come into contact with the stuff - eg a seal then don't use it.

A classic example is people using it on rear drum brake cylinders. The copper grease can attack the rubber seals leading to them leaking.