Home Forums Bike Forum Cracked Propel denied warranty, am I being awkward?

Viewing 11 posts - 41 through 51 (of 51 total)
  • Cracked Propel denied warranty, am I being awkward?
  • 1
    TiRed
    Full Member

    Things like this are one of the reasons…

    Why two of my Giants (Defy and Propel Advanced SL’s) have integrated seat posts. My other Propel (Advanced) has a different rear mounted clamping system rather than front. I’d be dissappointed with that crack, and based on the one year paint, proceed with the claim.

    georgesdad
    Full Member

    I had similar beef with Canyon over a cracked chainstay. Their initial response was “Well you’ve been riding it!”

    A few back and forth emails were exchanged and I’d say just don’t give up. Tell them you know it’s covered under warranty and you’ll take it to trading standards of they refuse to honour it.

    thomas.hood
    Free Member

    >though the mechanic at Sigma did show me a tip

    Do tell…

    :-)

    NormalMan
    Full Member

    On the a SuperSix Evo seatpost – was the trick tighten the first 3 to 4 nm pushing seatpost towards rear of bike, then pull it forward for the final tightening? Worked for me.

    chakaping
    Full Member

    Tell them you know it’s covered under warranty

    Under statutory rights.

    They have no control over that, but they do over warranty.

    1
    tonyf1
    Free Member

    If they won’t warranty I’d go straight to CC for a charge back.

    Reason is the absolutely victim blame mentality of wanting to examine your torque wrench. Tells me they want to wriggle out of responsibility rather than put you right and that totally crosses a customer service line with me. Not if or buts I’d want a replacement or refund.

    jamezee
    Full Member

    Regarding the shop asking to check your torque wrench, did you see them test it? Is the bike shop mechanic qualified to test torque wrenches?

    I suspect he was subtly accusing you of not using or owning a torque wrench.

    Toasty
    Full Member

    Regarding the shop asking to check your torque wrench, did you see them test it? Is the bike shop mechanic qualified to test torque wrenches?

    I suspect he was subtly accusing you of not using or owning a torque wrench.

    I was a little offended if I’m honest! I’ve been riding in the cycling club here for years, gone through dozens of bikes without issue. I think the wedge aero seatpost bolt is about the one thing I’d be doubly certain on, hate those things! Didn’t see them testing it, but they seemed to confirm it was bang on. I was very tempted to not take it in, there didn’t seem to be much to be gained from handing it over, but I didn’t want to appear defensive.

    9
    Toasty
    Full Member

    So bit of an update, after the very clear cut “we will not be replacing your frame or offering a refund”, I kept pushing on the paint warranty listed on the website and a frame has now appeared! Different colour but I’m 100% over the moon. The manager I spoke to seemed confused as to why I was ever told “no”.

    If anyone finds themselves in a similar situation I’d definitely just buckle up and keep battling. It’s a shame the initial response wasn’t just a new frame, I can’t see that this approach helps their brand name hugely. Looks like I shall actually be back riding a Propel 🎉

    1
    iainc
    Full Member

    good news, sounds more like the initial guy you spoke to got it wrong, rather than a Giant issue, based on what the manager has said to you.

    1
    razorrazoo
    Full Member

    >though the mechanic at Sigma did show me a tip

    Do tell…

    On the a SuperSix Evo seatpost – was the trick tighten the first 3 to 4 nm pushing seatpost towards rear of bike, then pull it forward for the final tightening? Worked for me.

    Very similar to this.  Set post height and torque bolt to spec.  Following this push down on nose and tail of saddle alternately (so you’re using the saddle to rock the seatpost back and forth (not that this will be visible) – he used a fair amount of force).  Do this then re-torque the wedge bolt, repeat again to be sure.

    He was using a digital torque wrench and it was quite clear the bolt torque was less after the initial ‘rocking’, the reason being that the wedge won’t settle in a 100% even/final position if it is just tightened straight up, the movement of the post helps it settle into a neutral clamping position (if this makes sense).

    Plenty of miles since it was done and post is solid and silent.

Viewing 11 posts - 41 through 51 (of 51 total)

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