Tamiya and other R/C vehicles (not just for Christmas)

Anybody know where I might find Long boss pinions in larger sizes? Looking for around 40T in 48dp. Can’t find anything larger than 31T from the usual rc suppliers.

@mashr – that will have a very basic 2-in-1 ESC/receiver in it which don’t correlate with aftermarket stuff. Smyths have them at £52.99 so it’ll be cheaper to just buy a new one rather than go through the trouble of replacing the electronics.

Thanks folks confirmed my suspicions. The steering setup is very different to normal (think tank steering, but surprisingly well done) so goodness knows what’s going on inside and info isn’t forthcoming.

Anybody know where I might find Long boss pinions in larger sizes? Looking for around 40T in 48dp. Can’t find anything larger than 31T from the usual rc suppliers.

Asked this for you on my RC group’s Facebook page and the two experts (they sell stuff like this) said that you won’t find anything larger than 27-28t in long boss due to the forces involved. Custom is a possibility but it’s likely to snap or just not stay tight on the motor shaft.

Thanks for the reply RJ. Not sure I agree about the force thing though. It sounds backwards to me.

in any event this is for a fwd touring car running 17.5t fixed timing so loads are not high.

The alternative which the team drivers use involves a short boss pinion mounted right on the end of a motor shaft and taking a dremel to the top deck of the car in an area where there isn’t much material to lose and is designed to flex.It’s not clever.

Wasn’t expecting to get anything from rc suppliers, was thinking more gear manufacturers but they don’t use the same terminology in there catalogues so not sure exactly what I should be searching for.

diy option b involves machining a boss on the lathe. Overboring to a short boss pinion to say 6mm and securing it to the new boss with retaining grade loctite.

What car is it that needs a pinion that long?
Everything i’ve played with that could be called a “race” car seems to use stock pinions.

And it’ll be the leverage on the long boss/motor shaft with a large pinion.

Wardee, yer what car is it? Not heard of this issue

RW do long pinions, website only shows 27T here but drop them a mail and they may be able to sort you out

https://www.rwracing.co.uk/product/cnc-48dp-steel-long-boss-pinions

@Mert, Quite a few racing cars need long boss pinions, e.g. things like a Schumacher L1R 4wd and some 12th scale circuit car. However most use standard short boss pinions.

@dlr

The car I have bought is an xray x4f.

The car is designed to accommodate a maximum pinion size of 35T.

As standard with a short boss pinion it needs to be mounted towards the end of the shaft, and a long boss pinion would be better.

For pinions which are bigger than 35t they need to be positioned further out to avoid hitting the top deck.

Basically what’s happened is some people in Europe (EtS) set some rules for a racing class which included a control esc and 17.5t motor with a 17.5k rev limit and maximum gear ratios that could be used. (4.5 outdoors and 5.0 indoors) The manufacturer XRAY has designed the car to comply with those rules which would mean a maximum pinion size of roughly 27 or 28 tooth.

The British people (BRCA) who set the rules for racing in the UK decided that they didn’t want to follow european rules.

The BRCA rules use the same control motor and speed control as the Europeans but the rev limit has been reduced to 15K and there are no restrictions on gear ratio.

The result is that to get optimum performance the car needs to be geared much higher than the designer envisaged with pinion sizes of at least 40T needed on some tracks.

Speaking about rw racing, I recently purchased some spur gears and a 35T pinion from RW racing. The Spur gears are great but the new ( short boss) pinion has a noticeable wobble (even when moved inboard on the motor shaft.) I have a lot of older rw pinions which are great but they were all purchased a very long time ago.

Schumacher L1R 4wd

Ah yes, they have that odd/different layout with the slipper and belt don’t they.
Not run a buggy with belt/chain since i had my Optima mid, so a bit of a grey area for me. All shaft drive buggies (and a bit of a play with a Yokomo YZ4 and the Serpent SRX4). And almost no one runs Schumacher over here anyway!

Don’t get me started on some of the gearing choices you have to make to meet what seem like incredibly arbitrary committee based decisions…

@wardee yep familiar with the rules, I do 4wd nationals and follow 2wd. The FDR issue is annoying due to the rpm limit, people are going down under 3 and some cars struggle particuarly the front motor ones. Not sure which way you need to move but could spacing the motor away from the mount 1-2mm then mean a larger pinion clears? Would swapping to 64DP help?

Mad choice over here as it means people need 400 pinions etc. Should have just gone with the fdr limit instead

Also realised that that the motor shaft is effectively 3mm shorter when compared with an old speed passion motor I have. The shaft length appears the same but What they have done is added extra material to the motor can to create vents which has the effect of moving the rotor across by 3mm.

so I have made an extension for the motor shaft.

The extension is 5mm diameter so pinions then have to be drilled out to fit. The first attempt wobbles a bit as the drill appears to have gone off course when it hit the grub screw hole.

@dlr what other cars are you aware of which have problems getting the ratios needed?

@wardee Only the front motor ones, the Xpress and maybe older Arc, I think most now use the forward/mid motor ones or however you call them ie behind the front bulkhead. Suspect it’s only a problem on the real big tracks. I see they are going to Mendip this year, that will need tall gearing….

Bear in mind someone might complain that you have modified a motor if doing the nationals….

If you’re on Facebook then find Ben Cosgrove, he won the 2wd last year I think and is now with Xray and should be able to help even if yours is an older model. Or there is an Xray UK group I think as well. There must be a solution which doesn’t require major surgery

It’s not an older car. It’s the latest model and only bought it about 3 weeks ago after being retired for a number of years.

Ben C trims material from the top deck and mounts the pinion as far out on the shaft as is physically possible. It is not a good solution.

Ben runs a ratio of 2.8 indoors on carpet so I don’t think it’s just the big tracks that are an issue.

At 3.6 I have certain cars running into me at the end of the straight at Hinckley indoors.

For clarity I haven’t modified the motor. I’ve modified the gear and made an adapter to fit it. Essentially a DIY long boss pinion. Legality won’t be an issue,

One of the things I’m not sure about is just how high I might need to go with the ratio. The limit might be about 2.7 due to the servo mount.

Applied to the xray forum several weeks ago but my request hasn’t been accepted yet.

This is detailed chatter and quite interesting. So is it the case that for racing, there are restrictions on certain items, a stock motor and speed control? We have a fairly smart tarmac track near me in Halifax and I sometimes go down with the son to watch the racing, both electric and petrol/nitro??? . Camper vans and full pits set-up, it’s crazy to see how much kit is involved. I assumed it was a case of how fast can you afford to go but if there is a bit of levelling taking place, it makes it interesting.

Thinking about it, there aren’t usually any one or two cars that are distinctly faster than the others..unless they have all topped out on what can be modded/£?

I assumed it was a case of how fast can you afford to go but if there is a bit of levelling taking place, it makes it interesting.

Depends on scale/class and “restrictions”. Some classes are effectively a “one make” series, where everything from the powertrain/battery to the tyres, weight and drive ratios are controlled, but not the chassis. So it really is all about the driver and how the car is set up (the range of suspension adjustment on touring cars is quite phenomenal considering they are effectively “toys”). But you might have 15 different chassis and the same again of body shells…

Then some other classes are effectively unlimited. The cars still all go round the track at roughly the same speed, as they’re now limited by grip and physics.

Going to an internal combustion engine adds another layer of complexity (tuning, fuel consumption, refuel strategies) and off road is a whole different thing again.

@wardee well seeing as Ben wins most of the time it is obviously a solution which works and is reliable although he will rarely crash so if you plan on doing that it could cause problems with the top deck 🙂 There are people out there who make aftermarket top decks for all brands so that would be a solution, one where it is offset or something, look up RRP Products on facebook, Dave Rand, he makes all sorts, shock towers etc and I’m sure he could make one especially if it is a common issue in the UK so could sell to others

Accidentally bought a tank, because of this thread. Nothing fancy, just a Heng Long T34, but I’m looking forward to it- I’ve not touched the crawlers since they got boxed up for a house move a year ago so hopefully this’ll reignite some interest

Dug my Maverick Ion XT car out last week and have been having some fun with the kids with it. Yesterday after a session on a field with some grass cuttings on it stopped going. Motor was red hot. I left it to cool down, checked on it this morning, the wheels will turn side to side, but no power coming from the motor. Is there anything I can try, or is it new motor time? Is it easy to fit a new motor?
Cheers.

Just to check before you spend any money, were you doing this with a freshly charged battery? If not then you might find it is the low voltage cut off in the ESC that is stopping the motor running while still letting the servo operate.

Yep charged it up yesterday evening.

If it’s a brushed motor you could try and give it a clean by squiring some water in it, while turning the output shaft to see if it’s something that’s clogged up the brushes. They should work ok when wet but you might need to be a bit more carful with the rest of the electronics if they aren’t waterproof, so it’s probably worth taking it out of the car if you can.

Oh god, another perfect shell from Merak!

Current state of play, in chronological order;

Tamiya TT02B:
Not the greatest tbh, although the grandkids like chasing it around.
Terrible steering, awful ground clearance, frangible plastics.
Honest opinion? Avoid.

Tamiya Lunchbox:
The most fun RC I’ve ever owned.
Objectively awful, but a set of nice shocks, a £20 sport tuned motor and some foams that half filled the tyres have transformed it.
Honestly my favourite.

Arrma Big Rock:
Compared to the Tamiya cars, this is like driving a Bentley.
Amazingly well designed and built, this thing is meant for better drivers than me.
I can just about drive it on 2S, on 3S I’ve broken a front arm and a rear hub – both my fault. The original servo wore out, but a nice replacement was £20.
Spares are cheap and it’s so easy to service.
Handles superbly on the rough stuff – never felt the need to upgrade anything.
If you like things that are well designed, are new to RC and would prefer something well engineered, fast and fun, get one.

Maverick Scout Crawler:
Amazing.
Had so many expensive plans for this, but now back to stock.
Go ahead and spend £500 on a Traxxas or Axial Crawler if it makes you happy.
Have had so much fun with this. Continues to amaze.
Without doubt the best value RC out there.
Everyone from little kids to old folk seem to love it.
Get one.

Tamiya 2CV M-05 RA.
Just wasted off road, it’s ended up as a track and tarmac car, no expensive mods, just nice shocks, lower ground clearance and more suitable tyres.
Honestly, it’s lovely. A delightful thing. Taught me how to drive and race.
Slightly more tricky to build than a basic Tamiya, but incredibly rewarding to drive.

Team Associated RB10 RTR:
Swore I had enough RCs.
Bought one last week.
Seems like a cheap way of going racing.
Build quality out of the box is stunning.
Can’t wait to get it on a track.

Cheers @RustySpanner

I never use these shells btw. Its just for my own pleasure to get them finished to the highest standard I can achieve.

They are all for sale!

I agreed re crawlers. I got an SCX-24 which was just excellent. Thinking of buying a Traxxas 4M now.

More progress on the Evo last night…

Also have a 2CV build for sale..

Be warned, Traxxas are apparently pulling all dealer support and will only be selling direct from now on.

Hi,

I’ve bought a couple of these with the idea or racing my 3 year old.

RCG Racing 1/16 4WD Rock Crawler RTR Black

When we have turned them on, both controllers control both cars so it’s impossible to have the two of them running at the same time.

Any ideas on how to change that? They are £25 each, so £££ on changing parts is not a goer.

Merak, how did you get the 2CV that low?
And could you please let me have the specs for that particular car?

I’m running the M05-RA chassis on it’s higher settings but with the aftermarket official Tamiya alloy shocks.

Do I just need to drop the clearance to M05 track specs?

Many thanks.

Oh, the Team Associated RB10 might seem a little pricey at £280 for an rtr, but it’s delightful.

Compared to something like a Tamiya DT02 Sand Viper the cost is comparable once all the necessary electronics are taken into account and the quality of the materials is far better.

http://ep1.pinkbike.org/p3pb24754835/p3pb24754835.jpg

Well one day after buying a radio controlled car it was in bits!

I discovered how to change the frequency and both the crawlers can run at the same time.

However the range has shortened to two meters.

Other than twiddling the frequency pot at random is there another way to increase the range?

For anyone interested the Tamiya Neo Fighter is available on Amazon for less than £80 atm and that includes esc and oil filled dampers.

@RustySpanner

2CV is just slammed on the lowest stock setting. 👍

More progress on the Evo tonight.

So close to being done..

@chestrockwell is that the one dispatched from Amazon Germany? I’m in Australia but happy to pay the extra shipping if I get the right one with the motor, ESC and oil shocks

Team Associated RB10 RTR:
Swore I had enough RCs.
Bought one last week.
Seems like a cheap way of going racing.
Build quality out of the box is stunning.
Can’t wait to get it on a track.

Either get the stiffer chassis (if they still make it?) or upgrade to an aluminium one.

The front kick up on the RTR is woefully fragile, especially on bigger, faster, jumpier courses.

High traction surfaces can also cause issues with cracking. Used to run indoor with slicks on carpet with tyre additive. Enough traction to start peeling the carpet up.

There were a few of us running them as indoor cars at my old club, we’d snap a chassis a couple of times a month.

Quick question:

are there any better places to sell an old Tamiya Manta Ray (thoroughly used and modded) than  ebay? It’s got sentimental value, but never goes out to play as realistically I’ll always take my Axial Wraith instead, so the Manta might as well get moved on.

Not sure mrjmt tbh. Tried to post a link but my computer has decided it doesn’t like STW for some reason!

@defblade try the Tamiya Club website.

@clubby – I still “cannot rate posts”, so I’ll just say cheers 🙂

Thanks for the advice Mert, much appreciated!