Going to look at a Mini One 1.4 petrol for my daughter. 2008, 55k.

I have buying cars.

Anything to be looking out for? (I’ll make sure all the wheels are there).

*tick*

It’s not a real Mini.

If it was a real Mini, I’d advise you check the ball joints, rear radius arms especially the near side.  CV joints as well.  The doors and sills for rust.  The tappets will need adjusting (they all do, don’t bother because after you’ve done it, it will sound just as bad).  Make sure the coolant has antifreeze and the water pump isn’t leaking.  Engine stay rubbers can fail/perish so make sure you cannot rock the engine.  Rear slave cylinders should be checked for leaks, they will at some point.

Avoid the 1100 model as it had very expensive rear slave cylinders compared to the 1000 or 1275.

Why did I love my Mini?😁

I know it’s not a real mini. I’d be less worried about buying one of those!

My original post should’ve said I “hate” buying cars.

Why did I love my Mini?

Because, quite clearly as you didn’t mention either, your sub-frame never imploded nor the battery compartment rusted through and fell out?

I too loved my Mini 1000 and my Mini Clubman 1275GT.

Is there any way you can get an appraisal from a mini specialist? or pay for some kind of inspection? Worth it if it’s for a new driver

Pull the mot history and have a nosey.

John – there’s a mini place next to shoreham station that do the new ones as well as the old – they might do an inspection.

Pull the mot history as above.

Check for front sub frame bushes they’re a Sod to do

Steel brake lines rot.

Cam box oil leaks

The PSA/BMW ‘PRINCE’ engine in that era MINI are pretty poor – do some googling. Although, there’s an argument to be made that if a car is still going after 12 years it must have been reasonably well maintained.

Personally, I’d avoid it and buy a Fiesta instead but any 12 year old car needs to be bought based on its condition. If you aren’t comfortable assessing that, take along someone who is.

Clutch is a weak point. Also check all the electrics work and the hatch opens without the remote key. They are well built cars, though. Runflat tyres are a harsh(er) ride than standard.

Although, there’s an argument to be made that if a car is still going after 12 years it must have been reasonably well maintained.

Any 12 year old car with that mileage should still be going TBF.

If it was a real Mini, I’d advise you check the ball joints, rear radius arms especially the near side. CV joints as well. Everywhere for rust.

FTFY

I had a 2008 Mini Clubman for a few years I’d have it back in a heartbeat. Small, nippy, comfortable, cheap to run, easy to see out of, felt quality inside and looked nice outside. Don’t be dissuaded, they’re a great car. Personally, I wouldn’t buy a 1.4, but I can understand why you would in your circumstances.

Th clutch in a one is far less likely to go than in a Cooper S, so I wouldn’t worry too much. Find a local Indy to work on it and it should be a geart car. She’s a lucky girl.

Fiesta is also a great car, but far more prone to rust and electrical faults

Mini has a 12 year anti-corrosion warranty.

Timing chain tensioners on these are prone to early failure due to BMW long service intervals. Post 2011 cars are supposed to have better tensioners fitted. Other than that pretty good cars that still look good by today’s standard.

Because, quite clearly as you didn’t mention either, your sub-frame never imploded nor the battery compartment rusted through and fell out?

I too loved my Mini 1000 and my Mini Clubman 1275GT.

Ha ha, wrote it off crashing through someone’s garden before the rear subframe had a chance to rust and the battery box never rusted as I had a battery explode in it (don’t ask) which meant the battery acid leaked all over the battery box and cured/treated all the rust.

I’ve got a 2010 cooper s. Once you get to 10 years + I guess you have to accept the car will generally have had some wear – my experience of my R56 N18 engined one is that you can buy “engine type x or y” or look out for “well-reported fault z” but at a certain age/price the faults can be quite random, so best to have a decent local independent mini specialist nearby.

As a generality, the mini has a tiny front end, so trying to fix almost anything under the bonnet can be a faff, if you are mechanically minded and don’t want to spend ages putting the front of the car into “service mode” to get to things.

It’s easier to pull the whole front off, especially if you are changing the supercharger *shudder*

My wife had an 04 plate mini one convertible with run flat tyres which were appalling, great on a flat road surface but any sign of bumps and potholes and it was all over the place.
Fuel consumption was poor but she absolutely loved it.

So – dija buy it? They are so attractive, but even with full garage facilities for free I would mega inspect.

As above MOT check is worth delving. Check previous years inc advisories and see if anything reoccurs from yr to yr…

https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/?_ga=2.51888812.404266343.1581188069-1382356338.1581188069

I’ve got a 2010 cooper s. Once you get to 10 years + I guess you have to accept the car will generally have had some wear – my experience of my R56 N18 engined one is that you can buy “engine type x or y” or look out for “well-reported fault z” but at a certain age/price the faults can be quite random, so best to have a decent local independent mini specialist nearby.

Mrs DoD had a a 2008 clubman Cooper’s did do the timing chain which is weak spot on the r55 n16 but tbh they give a fair bit of warning.

The only weird one I had was the rear electric door locks but easy change and the water washer pump.

They’re a lot of fun thou and I think you have to weigh that into the ownership equation.

So – dija buy it? They are so attractive, but even with full garage facilities for free I would mega inspect.

It’s a 12 year old car tbh that’s always going to be a problem with it as everything’s aged and on its way out. Unless it’s been owned by an enthusiast who’s replaced bushes,suspension pipes etc it’s likely to be on the tired slope.

I think you’ve got to buy on condition of car/price with a mind to budgeting for future repairs and perhaps preempting known issues by replacing parts prior to failure 🙂

So – dija buy it? They are so attractive, but even with full garage facilities for free I would mega inspect.

No. MOT check was a good call. Same advisories for last 2 years – corroded exhaust, oil leak and cracked radiator.

Bought a 2010 C1 instead, 2 owners, FSH, 26k. No advisories ever.

Only positive reinforcement on this one please 😀

Good call – advisories not being fixed (apart from exhaust) point to minimum maintenance.

Bought a 2010 C1 instead, 2 owners, FSH, 26k. No advisories ever.

Check the tyre sidewalls aren’t cracked low miles like that could be on original tyres 🙂