Boost Conversion Options

Home Forum Bike Forum Boost Conversion Options

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)
  • Boost Conversion Options
  • Rik
    Member

    Wolf Tooth say that you cant use a Boostinator on a centrelock hub but i cant for the life of me see why not. Just buy the offical DT centre-lock to 6 bolt converter and then use the Boostinator kit on that.

    For info, i didn’t get on with the Boostinator end cap, although it fitted and was the correct length for a boost frame. Fitting it and doing up the maxle tight, there was still noticeable play in the wheel. Take of and fit the offical DT end caps and put it in a 142mm frame with a maxle, no play at all. Emailed Wolf Tooth multiple times who kept on saying it must be the hubs/bearings fault. Which wasn’t possible.

    I bought a Dt 240 boost hub in the end

    For info, i didn’t get on with the Boostinator end cap, although it fitted and was the correct length for a boost frame.

    I did, but on a Hope Pro 2.

    Really depends on how much you want to spend. Will you be paying to get your wheel rebuilt, or do it yourself?

    ade9933
    Member

    H Wheel Geeks…

    I’m considering my wheel options for a new build b+ boost bike (HT). I have a nice set of lightbicycle carbons on my FS bike but I also have some spare non-carbon but ok wheels I could use on the FS.

    The chinese carbons have an ID of 34mm so could be decent for the b+ bike but they are built on DT Swiss centrelock 240 hubs which can’t be converted by a boostinator 🙁

    If I convert the carbons would there be much difference in performance / feel between converting to a real boost hub or a non-centrelock 142 which I could fit a boostinator too and redish to use on the HT but also have flexibility to go back to non-boost if I want to out them back on the susser.

    Other options are… buy a boost hub and get the wheel rebuilt if I want to go back and keep the existing hub.
    Buy the bullet and buy a new wheel set of non-carbon rims for the HT.

    Any thoughts?

    Thanks!!

    ade9933
    Member

    I bought a Dt 240 boost hub in the end

    Yeah… I have a feeling that the road less bodged will be the way forward.

    Will you be paying to get your wheel rebuilt, or do it yourself?

    I’ll be paying. I don’t think it will be much if I already have the spokes and hub but I won’t be doing it on a regular basis.

    BearBack
    Member

    DT centre-lock to 6 bolt converter and then use the Boostinator kit on that.

    How?
    Any pictures of this working? I’ve also got a nice carbon wheelset on 240 hubs I’d like to run on a boost bike.

    DT don’t make a 6 bolt adapter that will let you screw a 6bolt rotor to it. Plus the retaining cap is larger than the 6 bolt rotor BCD so it will always be in the way.

    240 or 350 hub swap will be required. Spoke lengths don’t change if you stick with the same IS/CL type.

    greyspoke
    Member

    I have a DT 6-bolt adapter and I can confirm what BearBack says. No way can it be spaced. It looks dodgy enough unspaced tbh.

    ade9933
    Member

    240 or 350 hub swap will be required

    But will you swap to boost or non-boost and adapter 🙂

    BearBack
    Member

    straight to boost surely as swapping CL non-boost to IS non boost with adapter will yield different spoke lengths and the expense of a non ideal engineering adapter solution

    greyspoke
    Member

    I have been through this process, but with a view to using both my old non-boost 29 and new 27.5+ wheels on the bike.

    The advantage of using non-boost hubs with adapters is interchangeability with non-boost frames (though if you are going for wide rims, that will only work if your non-boost frame/fork takes plus tyres). If you go for the “keep the wheel in the middle and use a slim 6-bolt disc adapter” type of spacer set then you can use your wheels on a standard frame/fork just by removing the disc adapter. But, you will have a non-boost chainline on your boost frame, which may or may not work depending on how fat your plus tyres are, whether you go for a boost crankset etc. I am sure it can be done though.

    If you choose the “space it all over one side” type, you will need to re-dish (and remove the adapter on the rear) to use on a non-boost frame. I chose this, I sacrificed wheel interchangeability with my non-boost 29er frame, but will get interchangeability with a boost width 27.5+ wheelset when I get round to building one.

    Unless your spoke lengths are at the limit one way or another, there should be enough thread to re-dish – there was on my wheels, it is only a couple of turns.

    I’ll be paying. I don’t think it will be much if I already have the spokes and hub but I won’t be doing it on a regular basis.

    I’d be tempted to do it properly then. If you were re-dishing yourself and thinking of regularly moving the wheels around I’d suggest otherwise, but it’s still one hell of a faff.

Viewing 11 posts - 1 through 11 (of 11 total)

You must be logged in to reply to this topic.