Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)
  • Bluto RL to RCT3 conversion
  • Goldigger
    Free Member

    Has anybody swapped out the RL compression damper for a RCT3 damper?
    I have a 2016 bluto RL, I’m pretty sure all I need is part no 11.4015.544.270.
    There are some threads that suggest the rebound damper also needs to be changed due to the dig valve?

    Looking at the spare parts catalog there is only one rebound damper listed for the bluto. So I’d assume that the rebound damper doesn’t need changing?

    BLUTO (A1-A2/2015-2017)

    16. 11.4018.025.011
    Rebound Damper and Seal Head Assembly/Shaft Bolt – Rapid Recovery Reba 27/29, Bluto 26 A1-A3.

    13. 11.4015.544.270
    Compression Damper, Motion Control DNA, Crown Adjust – SID RCT3 Black (includes compression knobs) A3 2014-2016

    scaredypants
    Full Member

    FWIW, I’ve a revelation with a RCT3 damper and I’ve broken it 3 times (I am not a hard rider). I’d happily change mine to RL

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    I have a 2012 dual air SID RCT3, I’ve never broken it….
    How did you break it? What broke?

    scaredypants
    Full Member

    dunno – total loss of lockout (and I think also loss of general damping) 2x warranty from SRAM via loco, now in the garage waiting for me to open it up but out of warranty now

    tillydog
    Free Member

    total loss of lockout

    Possible easy fix:

    Clicky

    scaredypants
    Full Member

    tillydog – Member
    total loss of lockout
    Possible easy fix:

    Saved for later, ta

    (mind, I’ll be cross if that’s all it ever was)

    STATO
    Free Member

    I did it, makes it a better fork. Not sure its worth the RRP, I only paid £45 on amazon though

    I got this kit. Cant recall what the difference was from the one you listed.
    RockShox Compression Damper MoCo RCT3 DNA SID B RCT3 2012-2015 Crown Adjuster w/Knobs (120 mm Chassis Only) A1-A2, 11.4015.544.070

    EDIT: just realised its the same as what you listed (was looking at the rebound code by mistake, dont think you need that bit though?).

    jairaj
    Full Member

    There are some threads that suggest the rebound damper also needs to be changed due to the dig valve?

    A far as I understand. You don’t need to upgrade the rebound damper to one with the dig valve. It just works better in combination with the RCT3 damper so it’s recommended to change the rebound damper but not necessary.

    STATO
    Free Member

    A far as I understand. You don’t need to upgrade the rebound damper to one with the dig valve. It just works better in combination with the RCT3 damper so it’s recommended to change the rebound damper but not necessary.

    I would have if i could have got one cheap, but another £70 on top of the compression isnt worth it for a bluto IMO. Youve got massive unsprung weight with its own odd rebound characteristics so dont think the benefit is worth the outlay, especially since the Bluto is pretty flexy too. Id save the money and pick up the new manitou fat fork if you really want better performance.

    Goldigger
    Free Member
    STATO
    Free Member

    Yeah think thats it. Amazon does odd pricing thing where some stuff keeps dropping until its sold then goes back to normal pricing. Ive got a few bargains that way. I’ll have a look in the garage as i think i still have the RL damper, mine was crown lockout not remote.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Have done a quick fix, disconnected and took the oneloc remote off and put a short brake cable in the lockout mechanism and fixed it in the open position.

    jairaj
    Full Member

    If you want to convert your pop lock damper to a crown adjust damper you can do a very simple DIY mod.

    Take the damper out of the fork, you will see there is a spring that pulls the adjust knob around. Just unhook the end of the spring from its hole so it has nothing to resist against and voila the adjuster on the top of the fork now stops returning back to its initial position and will stay wherever you leave it.

    You can add an o-ring or something to add a bit of friction to stop it turning accidently but I never found it to be a problem. Or buy the crown adjust lever and add that on. As far as I know you can leave the spring dangling inside, it doesn’t cause any problems.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Thanks for that, I heard this this possible. Just didn’t get the simple details of how.
    Any idea which crown adjust lever fits?
    Edit. Should be this one 11.4015.547.110
    Just need to find somewhere that has one.

    Goldigger
    Free Member

    Swapped out the RL damper for the RCT3 and also stripped the fork down and gave it a full service.

    Might be the combo of the damper and fresh oil/grease but what a difference. Worth while upgrade.

Viewing 15 posts - 1 through 15 (of 15 total)

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