Blow torches

I generally live by the principle of if you need a tool to do a job, don’t get the cheapest but something that will last. (also why I’ve got a garage half full of little used tools, but whatever).

I need a blowtorch to offer some persuasion to a seized screw in end cap on a pump. Cast Alloy casing with alloy 40mm diameter screw in end cap. Confident a little heat will help persuade it to come out without too much drama.

Question being am I going to notice any improvement / better operation between a £30 torch;

https://www.toolstation.com/gosystem-auto-start-blow-torch/p92494

and an £80 torch?

https://www.toolstation.com/vortex-map-torch-pack/p71324

Other than the volume of gas contained obviously.

The cheaper one looks like it might at least find a second life making Creme Brûlée after it’s done it’s intended job.

Thanks

I bought this Torch with a bottle of gas, maybe 5 years ago, I don’t use it much but it’s worked very well and it’s also still on the original bottle of gas.

https://www.diy.com/departments/gosystem-fine-flame-power-torch-mt2055h/212292_BQ.prd

I use it for soldering, some Aluminium brazing as well as tasks like the one you mention.

Last weekend I used it to ‘help’ remove some rusted on wheel nuts on my 1960 LandRover.

Speaking as an owner of a crap, frustrating blow-torch, there is such a thing as crap frustrating blow torches.

that’s not to say the cheap one you’ve linked is crap.

Rothenberger from Screwfix.

Anything else is crap and frustrating

Useful things to have around: we’ve got a bernzomatic one that looks almost exactly like the vortex one in the link and ours must be 20 years old. Gets used rarely for soldering but we have it close by as it’s great for lighting the log burner and also for melting cheese on toast

2 different things there. First one is a conventional torch for butane etc. absolutely fine for heating smallish things up, pipe soldering diy etc.

2nd is MAP gas. Much hotter flame. Better for heating up big cast things and other lumps of metal to try and free then from other lumps of metal. Unless you’re making jewellery, a pro plumber, or trying to free up lumps of car, then IMHO overkill for what you describe.

Cheap one has been fine for me for years. My other half uses the expensive one for soldering silver jewellery.

Yep second vote for a bernzomatic. Much more precise than a regular torch and you can run it on MAPP if you really need to give the thing some persuasion. Let any torch warm up a bit before picking it up as they can surge.

I’ve got a couple like Jag posted. One with a pencil flame and one with a broad flame. They were very cheap from eBay. Done loads with them, plumbing, rusty bolts, flame polishing. They work absolutely fine. As mentioned you do need to let them heat up, especially if you plan to use it sideways or upside down. I’ve since picked up a fancy one like the second link in the OP. It is nicer. Burns hotter, feels better quality, but not worth the extra for very occasional use.

It’s actually quite nice to have both as they do slightly different jobs. I’d be tempted to get the cheap one. If it does the job then great. If you find you need more power then add the bigger one to your collection

I bought one of these last summer and it’s been epic!  Only just finished the first can….. 11 to go!

(I use it for all sorts of stuff but used it a couple of days a go to heat up a seized stainless bolt in an aluminium piece (on an outboard engine… well done Honda!).  It worked a treat!

For my usage super-cheapness has worked out very well.

Rothenberger.

That first one will be awful for flaring if you tilt the gas cylinder around when using it.

I’ve been using one of the these GoSystem ones for 10 years of silver soldering cable guides etc. It is all brass so good quality and durable, and there is a swivel so you can keep the gas cylinder upright but still heat / have the nozzle at most angles. MAPP has a much more useful heat range.

https://www.diy.com/departments/gosystem-quick-pro-swivel-torch-qp8066h/198847_BQ.prd

Careful not to melt your aluminium housing, and have you tried an electric heat gun first?

have you tried an electric heat gun first?

Good tip, I was very surprised that I was able to get a snapped bolt out of a hub carrier casting just using a hot air gun.

or a gas cooker / camping stove?

As it so happens I had a play over lunch with the heat gun and once the casing was up around 100º the cap came off easily.

Saved me a few bob!

Rothenberger, it does also work with Creme Brulee if careful. and heating up metal things to make bearing swaps easier.