I brought a Be One Nirvana 1.0 2008 off CRC about 18 months ago.

Nirvana Be One 1.0 2008 click here

The bearing in the linkage are starting to go. I’ve emailed CRC and Nirvana about size and am awaiting a reply.

I found a comment saying BeOne used standard sizes. I have approximately measured the bearing as 1 cm across and 2cm across.

I will measure exactly later.

Im just wondering if anyone has any pointers on where to go to buy new bearings and general advice on replacing them.

Cheers

There is only one…

Should be fairly striaght forward, going by what I’ve done previously, as long as they haven’t corroded that much that they break apart when you try to knock them out. A mallet and old screw driver or (socket that fit the inner race) should be all you need to kncok em out, though I’d knock them back in with socket on the inner race (careful not to let it slip onto the seal, as you’ll easily damage them and shorten the bearing life). To get the exact sizes, if CRC or Be-One can’t give you the bearing sizes, when you knock the old ones out they should be marked with there bearing sizes/code (or at worst take them to a local bearing supplier and they’ll be able to measure them accurately and supply a replacement). Any local bearing supplier should be able to help you replace them (online is seemingly no cheaper for bearings), I’d go for a named brand (SKF/FAG/INA) rather than a cheap unbranded (chinese) bearing. They’ll cost more but will last longer & so be cheaper in the long run.

kaesae, kaesae, kaesae

There, that should do it

uplink – Member
kaesae, kaesae, kaesae

There, that should do it

Thanks uplink always good to be summoned!

I would advise using a bearing puller and press for shops and proffesionals, for amatuers in home workshops I would say use a vice and some sleave tools.

Always use the old bearings to press the new ones in when possible as this makes it very unlikely that you will damage the new bearings.

On the seals of the bearings you should find numbers, those are the bearings codes, I will show you how to fit your bearings and remove the old ones, if you want that is.

I can also supply you with very good bearing for the money 😀

email is in my profile info.

Cheers guys,

Very useful info, unfortunately 1 of the bearing has total corroded and pretty much fell apart the outer shell in still in the linkage I assume this will be a nightmare to get out ?

Kaesae I might get back to you when I’ve worked out what the bearings are.

cheers

As for running branded bearings like SKF FAG / INA, yes they will last longer and are better bearings, however they cost a good amount of money in certain sizes and only come with a 25% to 35% grease fill.

All the branded bearings I stock are weather proofed for out doors use.

I also have a bearing range of bearings specific to mountain bikes, that don’t cost too much and will last a long time.

Not sure if I have your sizes as the bulk of the range don’t come into the country for another 2 to 3 weeks.

Very tough seals,
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=jZxXrfupL_Y

Weather proofed (100% grease fill) with a tuff long lasting, water proof grease.

The actual quality of the bearing is also very good.

If you can’t get bearing codes from the rubber seals you can measure the bearings inner diameter/smaller race/ring. outer diameter or larger race/ring and width in mm’s.

Hope that made sense.

Hey, collapsed bearings happen all the time, I have a bearing puller to remove them, However you can use this technique. I’ve been teaching people to do this for about 4 years now.

It works and I can make you one worst case scenario, I do need to know the bearing numbers though.

one last question, what brand are the bearings JNK japan / S+S it should have a brand on the seal. most bearings will only last about 2 years, they’re simply not designed to be used out doors.

Hi kaesae

I have the one of 1cm ish bearing out. I used a handvice, the hollow part of a cassette tool and a bolt. Seemed to work quite well.

What I need now is a double size cassette tool to get the 2cm bearings out.

Anyway the

2cm ish bearing is marked one of

KAKO 69DIRS
KAKO 6901RS
KAKO 6901R5

or something like that

and smaller 1cm bearing are
698RS or
698R5

Do this ring any bells would I be able to order 2 of the big ones and 4 of the small ones off you ?

How much ?

my email is scu98rkr_at_gmail_dot_com if you want to email me

home made bearing puller makes life a LOT easier.

QR allows you to put even, constant pressure with a great degree of gentle power on the bearing,
(in the same way that its best to smack something once, gently, with a big hammer, than lots of little angry hits with a little hammer… but dont involve a hammer in this situation)

space it out with sockets, and washers, using the most appropriate sized socket on either side of the bearing itself

get the best bearings you can afford, remember, as they are push fit, every time you do it, you wear the frame a little, and risk ballsing it up completely, even if your not a seasoned pro. more expensive bearings mean you will have to do it less often.

Ah yeah my socket set dont know why I didnt think of that, was using a cassette tool in its place. looks good will give it a try.

my highly professional “puller” setup comprises:

1 rear QR
1 old rear axel, split in half, with the cones and nuts situated as seats for the sockets

and then for the varying sized bearings, and “frame supports”

Complete socket set
SqTp BB tool
Cassette tool
freewheel tool! (oldschool)
spoke key

and anything else in the toolbox with a hole in it! 😀

Very useful info, unfortunately 1 of the bearing has total corroded and pretty much fell apart the outer shell in still in the linkage I assume this will be a nightmare to get out ?

Though a bearing puller would be the ideal tool, I managed to knock out inner races with a old screw driver & hammer. You need to try to catch the inner lip where the ball bearings sat, and work your way round methodically.

Loving the bearing puller, might have to see if I have the bits to build one

Hi kaesae

I have the one of 1cm ish bearing out. I used a handvice, the hollow part of a cassette tool and a bolt. Seemed to work quite well.

What I need now is a double size cassette tool to get the 2cm bearings out.

Anyway the

2cm ish bearing is marked one of

KAKO 69DIRS
KAKO 6901RS
KAKO 6901R5

or something like that

and smaller 1cm bearing are
698RS or
698R5

Do this ring any bells would I be able to order 2 of the big ones and 4 of the small ones off you ?

How much ?

Hey, I think you’ve missed out a pivot point, you have the upper linkages including the shock mounting rocker pivot but not the main pivot?
Are those bearings OK?

Heat the bit the bearing goes into – Boiling water is enough. Tie a rag around it and pour a boiling kettle over it

It makes a huge difference.

Hey TJ, bearings sit in housings, the races are the outer and inner rings, then you have the actual ball bearings and in the case of caged bearings, a cage that separates the bearings.

These terms should make it easier to describe what you’re trying to explain to people 😀

Hey TJ, bearings sit in housings, the races are the outer and inner rings, then you have the actual ball bearings and in the case of caged bearings, a cage that separates the bearings.
These terms should make it easier to describe what you’re trying to explain to people

Lol – you must be like a professional or something. Are your bearings the magic ones that ‘soak up’ suspension movement?

sv – Member

Hey TJ, bearings sit in housings, the races are the outer and inner rings, then you have the actual ball bearings and in the case of caged bearings, a cage that separates the bearings.
These terms should make it easier to describe what you’re trying to explain to people

Lol – you must be like a professional or something. Are your bearings the magic ones that ‘soak up’ suspension movement?

Hello SV,
The magic bearings have sold out and the leprechauns haven’t made any more for me yet! they’ve run out of fairy dust, I’m afraid!

I do have some shoes with bells and pointy funny coloured hats, if those are any good to you? 😀

Still avoiding the questions then. I hope the OP goes to a reputable bearing supplier. SKF will do fine but at least avoid this ‘company’.

sv – Member
Still avoiding the questions then. I hope the OP goes to a reputable bearing supplier. SKF will do fine but at least avoid this ‘company’.

I answered your question about magic bearings SV, you obviously didn’t like the answer. The bottom line is no matter what I write, it will be wrong in your eyes. This isn’t about the truth it’s about you being right.

Everyone who buys and runs my bearings knows how good they are, you and all the other haters can buy your bearings elsewhere. I hear it’s good exercise squatting down, then coming back up! Even better, if you’re pulling something up as well 😉

As for magic bearings, if you can supply the fairy dust, I can create them just for you!

As for SKF bearings, these should do just as well, infact a bit better! Considering the 2 years I spent testing different greases and the fact that I will be weather proofing them.

Considering the 2 years I spent testing different greases and the fact that I will be weather proofing them.

Here comes the picture of a pile of bearings! Weather proofing isn’t that were you overpack with thick grease?

The magic bearings I refer to are the ones you stated ‘soaked up’ suspension movement and thus avoided letting the shock do it’s job.

Here comes the picture of a pile of bearings! Weather proofing isn’t that were you overpack with thick grease?

Amazing SV, your powers of prophecy are awsome! weather proofing is where I take standard bearings and make them last twice as long. By making sure the weather conditions or outdoors use don’t detrimentally effect the bearings 😀

The magic bearings I refer to are the ones you stated ‘soaked up’ suspension movement and thus avoided letting the shock do it’s job.

Never heard of those, are you sure it’s not magic mushrooms you’re after? 😯

Going off at a tangent here but if Whyte and Marin can offer a lifetime warranty on their bearings why can’t anyone else?

Most bike companies run crap bearings to keep prices down, it also means a lot of repeat sales for replacements 😯

Realistically good quality bearings that are weather proofed will last a good 3 to 5 years.

Marin and whyte run KP control bearings, from the air craft industry, they are very good quality.