neighbour’s car won’t start (focus 1.6 zetec)

makes a click/knock from near the starter motor but no akshun

bump started easily but still won’t start from the starter

battery was flat recently and been recharged. Electrics all light up, central locking is working OK

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Is this a battery thing or is it a starter thing ?

I’d like battery as it’s cheaper

Starter motor I’d say

Try hitting starter motor with something see if it starts

At first I ridiculed idea of hitting starter, but it worked on my previous car. Few moderate knocks should do the trick. But if that was the case then starter motor replacement is on cards.

Given its history im going to say battery

When a battery doesnt have enough oomph to turn a car over the starter motor clicks.

Turn the headlights on and then try to start the car. Ill bet they either dont come on , or damn near go out when you start the car

Sounds like a starter. Tried jump starting it.

Turn ignition on so all the lights are on , turn key to start – if all lights stay on and it goes click it’s either the starter or connections to it , if all the lights dim as it clicks – battery , drain or charging fault

Just been round – jump started fine when attached to my battery so I’m hoping just low charge and a replacement possibly needed

how would he know if the alternator was knackered ? (ign light on dashboard ?)

My 1999 diesel focus used to eat starters. It had three in the last 3 years I owned it. I think the case hardening on the fly wheel starts to break up and the magnets in the motor attract the bits which jams it up. Mine had done 165000 miles though.

“how would he know if the alternator was knackered ?”
(there is usually a warning light on the dash but..)
I believe once you’ve got the car going, put a multimeter on the battery, it should be receiving a charge of around 14v, if much less the alternator dead/dying (more & its boiling your battery). Got to do this in a minute, fricken car wouldn’t start yesterday, hoping it’s the battery!

Aye alternator doesnt need to not be charging – if the diode packs dead it can be sending silly currents to your battery kiling it in short order.

Battery flat then. If battery light is on when engine is running alt dead. Better check is to use a volt metre on the battery engine running should read between 13-14.4v 12 or less dead alt

Halfords do a proper (i.e. placing a heavy load on the battery and measuring it’s output) free battery test while you wait. Silly not to.

should be ~14.4V across the battery when engine is ~3000 rpm.
FWIW i had the aa out to jump my van when i left the interior light on for a week. after starting the very nice man diagnosed a fubar battery with his machine ( similar to the halfwits one, i’d imagine ). same battery 3 years later….
as others suggest give the starter a good twatting. they develop dead spots when they age so leathering them just moves them on a bit and they go again.
don’t make a habit of jump starting modern cars.

Starter? This sounds like battery or solenoid to me..

The first thing to check is that the battery terminals are clean. Maintain connection with a wire if the care is one that needs a reprogramme every time the battery is disconnected.

Could be needing a new earth strap or two as the’re prone to dissolving away rather rapidly with the amount of salt used on the roads for the last few winters. You get the same symptoms as a bad battery or starter.

don’t make a habit of jump starting modern cars.

Serious question, but whats wrong with jump starting modern cars? Isn’t it exactly the same, except its using the power from another car? Or did you mean bump starting it?

Serious question, but whats wrong with jump starting modern cars?

Far more electronics in “modern” cars – if you got it wrong in the past, you might need a new battery or alternator diode; get it wrong now and you’ll fry all sorts of components = massive repair bills.

Most cars include instructions for emergency boosting in the owners manual, but it isn’t to be recommended regularly.

Connecting the wrong way round has always been a serious mistake. Short circuit two batteries simultaneously and there’s a chance one will go bang if the cables don’t melt first.

Jump starting correctly is no problem.

This sounds like battery or solenoid to me..

Battery then! Solenoids went the same way as ‘wing mirrors’ in the 1970s. 😉

Try hitting starter motor with something see if it starts

Posted 2 hours ago # Report-Post

popstar – Member

At first I ridiculed idea of hitting starter, but it worked on my previous car. Few moderate knocks should do the trick. But if that was the case then starter motor replacement is on cards.

Worked on the big mower for me, good hefty tap with a hammer and job done. Learnt that from Top Gear, useful factual car program (the rainforest one where Hammond beats his with a log)

For some ford diesels a failing starter motor is also a symptom of a disintegrating DMF.

don’t make a habit of jump bump starting modern cars.

sorry 😳

battery, according to Mr RAC, so nice and cheap fix (said alternator was fine, I’m told) 😀

Thanks y’aw

Bump startings fine long as its not an auto.

Jumping will fry your circuits – most manuals now say dont and to use a charger offline ime

Jumping would be a really useful diagnostic here- not sure if it’s battery? Add another battery, if it starts, it’s not the starter, simples.

Why would jumping fry your circuits, Trail rat? I’ll state that done properly it won’t:

Connecting to another car is either the voltage of the battery if the other car’s engine is not running or the regulated voltage of the other car if it is. You risk absolutely nothing at all so long as the other car’s engine is not running and you connect plus to plus.

Edit: If you are worried about protecting the donor car then disconnect the battery, having first wired up a 9v smoke alarm battery to replace it if it’s a car that needs a reprogramme after a battery disconnect.