Any Orbea Occam owners on here?

I’m just about to press the button on a 2021 Orbea Occam H30 – the bottom spec one.

Any owners on here care to share their experiences? I’m getting a medium but keen to fit a 170mm dropper, which would have to be slammed!

I’ve got some decent brakes ready and some Pikes from the recent PSA.

Cheers.

James

Yep, got one. (M10)
The stock 175mm cranks are effing stupid. I changed to 165s.
It feels very long and low compared to my old bikes, and is thus quite wallowy and unresponsive.

It’s quite heavy, but then nearly all modern bikes are.

I’d also like a longer dropper as it doesn’t go down that far.

The paint is a bit of a botched job on mine. Ho hum.

But all that said, I absolutely love it. It gets me down all sorts of stuff I wouldn’t dream of doing on my old bikes, including the Spec’duro. Im still finding stuff, both up and down, where I think “no way” but try it anyway, and succeed.
Because its so damn good downhill I forgive the fact that its a bit heavy, wallowy, unresponsive compared to my old ( old fashioned ) bikes.

First 3 months of Peak District winter slop I really disliked it. But once it stopped raining I took it to the Lakes much more and I love it.

I’ve done shit loads on it this last 6 months.

Beinn a Bhuird

It feels totally excellent, to the extent that I keep trying to do trackstands in inappropriate places. CYB

Ballater

Heartbreak Ridge

[Offroute on the] Lakes 3 Passes

Helvellyn

Sorry, I’m just gratuitously posting photos. But yes, I think it’s a bloody amazing bike. It’s totally transformed my riding from doing long rides where I endure any rocky gnarrr to medium rides where I love the rocky [semi] Gnarr

I still haven’t managed to do a ton on it yet, but that’s mainly as I’m too busy searching out nice enjoyable rides instead. It’s a fair bit lighter than my Spec’duro so anything up to about 50km 1600hm is fairly OK.

Thanks! Blimey, is there anything good about it?! 😉

What cranks did you go to? Is it a bog standard external BB?

Hello
I got a h20 a couple of months ago was going to get the h30 but there was none around so spammed the credit card for the extra! I wasnt sure between getting the medium v the large but after a brief test ride round the carpark i have gone for the large, i am 5ft 9.5 (very important .5!!) Be carefull with the longer dropper on the medium as the one on mine is a 170mm and the colar is as low as it can go before the cable in the seat tube starts to get un happy with the bend it has to make for the internal routing. This might depend on the dropper you are using though.

I am well happy with the bike though, for me its perfect, i can ride all day slogs in the hills, its slack enough for steep bits, so far so good in the air and its still pretty agile, i have moved up from a 2009 transition covert so short and 26 inch wheels to the occams long and low and 29inch wheels and i can still chuck the bike around and blast about but now climbing is so much better!

i did swap the resin only brake discs as they are poop but if you have better brakes your good and i ended up with the sram eagle version and the NX rear mech is shite but when is breaks i’ll swap for a better one.

Iain

Thanks! Blimey, is there anything good about it?! 😉

I think I was busy editing the post 🙂
I thought I should write down a few specific things which I didn’t find optimal, to hopefully give a balanced view. And note that my comments about LLS and weight apply to almost all modern bikes. It did feel weird, and still does at times, but the downhill performance is well worth it.

Got some 165mm SLX cranks.

Don’t discount the orbea oiz tr 120mm travel.

There’s a thread on here

2020 Occam, who’s got one? Happy with it?

@doug_basqueMTB.com is the one to ask

🖐️ M30 here. Still very happy with it after a year. I think I’ve probably explained my findings in the other Occam thread up there 👆

I’ve since added some carbon wheels so now it’s a rocket uphill too. Not that it was sluggish before but light wheels always help!

Interested in heavy comment I’m about to buy 2019 version which suggests around 30 lbs pretty good for modern fs and one of reasons buying have I got this wrong? Also basic al model.

What cranks did you go to?

You could get a pair of really bling ones from here…

PSA XTR cranks

Or buy my SLX ones and I’ll buy the bling ones 🙂

Interested in heavy comment I’m about to buy 2019 version which suggests around 13.6kg is pretty good for modern fs and one of reasons buying have I got this wrong?

Take my input with a pinch of salt, as I am comparing with my old school 26″ bikes, which are loads lighter at around 12.5kg.
But, as above, my old 26″ bikes are also shit downhill.

Which model are you referring to at 13.6kg? I’ve got the M10 and even with upgraded carbon wheels, it’s still over that.

/edit. Basic Al model… no way on earth that is 30lbs ready to ride.

2019 version. 2020 is the current model so perhaps the older ones are less chunky.

New version is revealed soon, I’ll be interested to see the changes. Going by the rallon it will be slightly longer and have downtube storage.

I have an M10 – purchased March this year and love it.

Comes in sub-15kg with pedals etc and so light enough for carrying across bogs.

Swapped out the back tyre to something with a bit of grip and fitted a smaller chainring for the local climbs, but that’s it.

I had some creaks but a regular check with a torque meter keeps on top of that.

I have had an M10 since last April and have generally loved it.  Mine’s an XL (6’4″) and is the first bike I’ve ever had that fits me properly.

Only real issues I’ve had with mine have been re-programming my brain to reduce pedal strikes as the BB is low, I got 170mm cranks with it and have considered 165mm but am a little worried they might feel a bit weird at the end of my gangly legs.!

I’ve also had some problems getting the best out of the DPX2 shock, it seems to want to wallow into it’s midstroke too easily at the correct sag and I can’t really put any more pressure in it as I’ve got almost 340psi in it already.!!  I think that’s a problem with the shock and the suspension kinematics though, a different shock or a custom valve job would probably fix it.

Have been thinking about a coil shock for it which apparently is doable and improves things no end.  Having seen some blurry spy shots of the 2022 refresh I suspect a coil will become an ‘official’ option soon enough.

I’ve heard a new 2022 frame is coming out this week…

Going by the rallon it will be slightly longer and have downtube storage.

Urgh. Thank god I got the 2021 version.

Great feedback, thanks all. Sorry I missed the last Occam thread, I should have checked 🙁

I’ve ordered the bottom spec H30 today through Cycle to work. I added some 165mm XT cranks, no SLX available, but at least I get the income tax saving.

Nice photos @thegeneralist, my cup of tea.

I’m just amazed I’ve managed to get hold of a relatively decent bike, in medium, in the current climate. Happy days.

Can’t wait to completely take it to pieces, change the forks, wheels, brakes, gears and cranks. Half the fun isn’t it…

Have fun setting it up and riding it 🙂

I have a 2020 H20 in XL which I got after hiring a H30 at Whinlater. I note that Bike Treks have chosen it for their hire fleet as well.

Not ridden it a great deal because just got it before last years lockdown, and have been doing more road and gravel riding. I am no where near taking it to its limits, but it takes care of me when the going gets technical.

The plastic clip that holds the mech hanger in when you take out the rear axel cracked, may be due to me over tightening the rear axel. So be careful.

Since I bent the hanger I replaced the hanger with a third party one with a different clip.

https://gearmechhanger.com/PILO-D797-CNC-gear-mech-hanger-/-derailleur-hanger

The plastic clip that holds the mech hanger in when you take out the rear axel cracked, may be due to me over tightening the rear axel. So be careful.

Since I bent the hanger I replaced the hanger with a third party one with a different clip.

https://gearmechhanger.com/PILO-D797-CNC-gear-mech-hanger-/-derailleur-hanger

That’s a cracking shout.. Will get one of those when the are available again.

One other thing to note..  Make sure your H30 has the steel shock mount bolt fitted. (The top bolt that attaches the shock to the frame), there seems to be an issue with the OEM alloy one shearing, sometimes causing frame damage or a jammed in shock that can’t be removed.!!

I believe they have done an inline production change so all new ones should already have one but I’d take a magnet with me to check when you collect it and get the shop to change it out if it’s not.

Good shout on the hanger and bolt. I’ll check and probably get a steel one from the local fabricators.

H30 am 27.5 wheel size might account?

Dobre den

@H1fhland3r try using some volume reducers in the shock. Standard spec is 0.2 I am running 0.4 (have tried 0.6 but too harsh). Worked a treat for me and I run around 245 psi for 30 % sag (I weigh 11 1/2 stone)

Oh – and I should say I love my M30 and in size medium it weighs 13.5kg but I did swap the forks out for the Factory Fox 34 Kashima and DPX2 so the fork may save some weight…

Enjoy you new bike!

I did try the volume spacer that came with the bike (0.4) and was thinking it was a bit harsh while still not having a lack of support in the mid stroke..  I have a 0.2 in just now and am still trying to figure out if it’s better or not..

Having seen the expected Occam LT with a coil in it this morning I’m leaning more and more coil.

On a related note for fellow Occam owners, mine is suffering a bit with a knocking/rattle on descents that I cannot explain.  After ruling out any play in pivots I’m currently thinking either a somehow knackered bearing that isn’t presenting with any lateral play or cables (dropper possibly) knocking around in the frame but I’m pretty sure all the internal cables are sleeved so I’m a bit stumped.  It’s definitely not a squeak or creak, I initially assumed it was knackered bearings as that’s exactly what it sounds like but as I say, no other evidence there’s a problem with them.  I might just change them all out anyway and see it that sorts it.

If there’s no obvious problems with your bearings and it only makes the noise downhill it could be your shock needs a sevvice.

Hmm could be that too.. guess it’s due as well so the question becomes.. service the DPX2 or put the money to a coil..

i wish TIMf had commented last week, i’ve had the same issue with the rear axle, the plastic thing where your screw the axle has a pull and twist thing, mine had a tooth missing, broken off (out of 3) crap design, hence the rear axle hasnt been right for a while, i got the new part and it feels good again.

as others say it performs well downhill and climbs well (sixth element carbon)

just got back from spain, 5 days in the granada mountains [pure mountains] brilliant riding and handled it well, jenny ordered the part in and it arrived before me, so a simple fix on the axle.

felt great at ardrock and boltby.
i’ve changed tyres. rekons arent great ime
gone shorter XTR crank (£209 on crc presently)
hope brakes and the fat token in the shock, felt crap before that

So at the risk of derailing this thread a wee bit further, I’ve actually started on changing out bearings, drive side split pivot was no problem but I can’t for the life of me figure out how to get the threaded insert out of the non-drive side..?????

From the blue paper manual it looks like a similar twist motion to the drive side but I can’t figure it out.!

#EDIT : Nevermind, I figured it out..  screw the axle in from the outside and pull.! The o-ring in the exploded diagram gave it away, many years of DT hub ownership! 🙂

I couldn’t get the left or right arms off the linkage axle. Thankfully those bearings feel ok for now. Also, the internal circlip on the chainstay seems tricky. Think I need to try a pick to budge it. At least the rest of the bearings are easy to service.

Yep, a little pick behind the snap ring and a bit of fiddling and it pops right out. If you look really closely, one end of the snap ring is angled to give you a wee bit of purchase.

To get the linkage arms off I used a reversible sash clamp to push the arms apart and slide one end off the axle.  It’s a complete ball-ache though getting it apart and then another one getting it back together.  Think I’ll probably get one of the 2022 linkages as that’s been done the right way with the axle permanently attached to one link arm like a crankset.

Oh and if you are using the blue paper manual for torque settings and the like be sure NOT to use the Loctite on the linkage axle that they suggest. The one they say to use will form a permanent bond with the axle and will never come apart.!  I think I used 641 which is actually a bearing retaining compound so stronger than threadlock but definitely breakable.

Thanks highlander. I watched a vid of someone just pulling the linkage apart with their hands. No chance of mine coming free like that. Or I’ve got weak hands.

Got the bike now, looks great. Except the appalling headset! It’s classified as IS42 / IS52.

Two loose bearings cups came out and, I think, left the steel liner in the frame.

Makes sense if it’s an IS headset.

I want to replace with something decent because the bearings are currently quite exposed and the race is semi-integrated into the lower bearing so pretty rubbish!

Any recommendations? Is it actually an IS42/IS52 headset like this:

https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/193741856454?hash=item2d1bea1ec6:g:dhwAAOSwDRZfp8UF

Cheers

Me again!

Would Hope HSC8 and HSCJ fit? I find IS a bit intimidating!

Thanks,
James

Pretty sure those are a match. I don’t think you can go too far wrong with is42/52.