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Not sure if I'm being dumb here but...
I am trying to use a deore hub in a PX london road frame - I've been using a cheapo single speed wheel up to now, but I'm swapping to gears.
The disc rotor is really close to the non-drive side. I can only just move the caliper over so it's barely clearing the rotor.
It's a Deore centerlock FH-M535 hub.
Is it possible to adjust where hub position towards the drive side?
Is the wheel currently centred? Could you tweak the dishing by tightening the spokes leading to the driveside flange by a quarter turn?
There'll be very little you can do other than fitting an extra washer behind the non drive side lock nut. Don't go too thick or you won't have enough axle protruding to engage in the dropout, though you could even protrusion out with adjustment at the drive side end (no washers there to remove though, so your overall lock nut distance will still be a little wider).
Edit: it's also possible to slot the caliper holes a little further, though if your issue is the disc being too close to the frame then this won't help.
A washer is about your only option. Are the pistons pushed as far back as they'll go? Are they fresh pads? Do you have a partly worn one you could use on the outside of the caliper?
Wonder also if you'd have a bit more room if you used a centre lock adapter with a 6 bolt disc?
thanks for the advice - pistons all the way back, rotor is skimming the inside of the caliper.
I'm going to take off the lock nuts and see if there are any spacers or scope for washers.
martinhutch - Member
Is the wheel currently centred? Could you tweak the dishing by tightening the spokes leading to the driveside flange by a quarter turn?
Didn't read the OP at all huh?
Spacing out the disc (but probably only if it was 6 bolt) or spacing out the caliper mount (if it used an adaptor) are likely to be the easiest fixes
Hang on, isn't the axle threaded both ends so you can adjust the cup and cone bearings? If so you should be able to disassemble, undo the lock nut and wind back the cone on the drive side a couple of turns, then lock up again and rebuild and the whole shebang should be sitting a couple of thread widths over.
Edit: that's not actually going to help as the relative position in the frame is set by the locknuts and spacers, not the threads(and if you go too far with the threads the axle will extend beyond the dropouts and you won't be able to clamp the qr) . You need to put a thicker locknut/spacer one side and thinner on the other.
no adapter unfortunately, 160 mm rotors
need to get the caliper further outboard too.
I guess what I'm looking to do is the same as adjusting chainline.
I'll double check I've not done somethinf stupid with mounting the centrelock rotor.
legend - Membermartinhutch - Member
Is the wheel currently centred? Could you tweak the dishing by tightening the spokes leading to the driveside flange by a quarter turn?Didn't read the OP at all huh?
Spacing out the disc (but probably only if it was 6 bolt) or spacing out the caliper mount (if it used an adaptor) are likely to be the easiest fixes.
oh the ironing :lol:.
Centrelock cant be spaced and even if it could how would it help to move the rotor even further in the direction that's causing the problem? and PX London road does not use adaptors.
A 1mm spacer on the axle behind the locknut is the solution here.
If it's a new wheel/hub, I'd be checking that there are no washers or spacers missing from the disk side. If there are any thin ones, are there two on the drive side by mistake for example.
If it's an on one if be giving up and buying a straight frame.
+1ghostlymachine - Member
If it's an on one if be giving up and buying a straight frame.
there's another thread for that. 🙂
The PX was good as a cheap way to try out a CX style bike
Washer seems to have improved things.
Is it a IS mount? Chuck a washer under the caliper on each bolt? If it's post mount then ignore my ignorance.
post mount, but thanks anyway
I've had this on a variety of frames and forks (although, despite having had a couple of PX/OO's in my time, I don't think any of them have been affected).
You can move the disc across by bending it with an adjustable spanner if it's just marginal, just do it bit by bit, work all the way around, and make sure the spanner is clean (I only thought of this after using the same method to remove a kink from a disc - I have washers on a 6 bolt Hope hub/RS fork that was on the edge of adjustment and still rubbing).