Viewing 38 posts - 1 through 38 (of 38 total)
  • 60 mm DT350 wheelset £500 delivered duty paid from Farsports or DT1600 alu?
  • yohandsome
    Free Member

    Back at my aero nonsense again, after excessive research my wheelchoice stands between two disc-only wheelsets, alu and carbon.

    gt
    Here with brake track and non disc hubs.

    60 mm Farsports Carbon wheelset £500 delivered duty paid
    60 mm 25 mm width 3k matte 24/24H Tubeless hole-less clincher compatible rim
    DT350 straight pull center lock Thru axle 12×100 12×142 Shimano 10/11s
    Sapim Cx-Sprint black, brass black nipples
    1780 grams

    + Aero
    + No spoke holes in rim bed
    + Better looking, deeper and not-all-white hub?
    – Price (relative to DT wheelset)
    – Durability?
    – No spoke holes in rim bed

    VS

    DT Swiss PR 1600 22/32mm disc wheel £340
    1787g – an excellent semi-aero alu wheelset with lightened DT350 hubs and DT aero spokes.

    + Price
    + Durability
    + DT aero spokes > CX sprint?
    – Excessive Decals (can allegedly be removed by acetone soaking)
    – 22 mm external width only
    – Only semi-aero
    – Greywhite hubs

    Leaning towards the farsports set and from what I’ve gathered they’re fairly reputable, could even get a 88 mm wheel for the rear, but is it a good deal?

    I’m 90 kg and from time to time ride with a backpack that could add 10 kgs, this would be my only bike for both training and transport so the wheelset needs to be durable.

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    aero

    backpack

    🤔

    oldnpastit
    Full Member

    Get the carbon ones.

    If you get the aluminum ones you will spend your life regretting it, and eventually getting carbon anyway.

    Not sure about 60mm, might be a bit sketchy on a windy day.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    As long as they’re fairly robust seems like a good deal, haven’t hit a curb or pot hole in forever.

    mrb123
    Free Member

    The aluminium ones are not aero.

    Carbon is the material to go for if aero is important to you. As you’re running discs a lot of the potential downsides of carbon are mitigated.

    Farsports are a very reputable manufacturer. Get those ones.

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    The one with disk hubs.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Wondering if a 28mm wide rim would be better than a 25mm one, the GP5000 ends up being 27 mm wide..

    trail_rat
    Free Member

    Surely if going max aero then you’ll be running 20c tubs ?

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Surely if going max aero then you’ll be running 20c tubs ?

    Heck why not just skip tires altogether and get some 18 mm wide rims?

    sillyoldman
    Full Member

    What trail_rat said about hubs. The carbon ones might be faster, if only due to a lack of brakes.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Oh I’m sorry I think you didn’t understand “Here with brake track and non disc hubs.” as the photo being for illustrative purposes as farsports doesn’t have a photo of the exact combination I’m speccing. Hope that made it clear for you 🙂

    Now:
    24 or 28 spokes front/rear with 160 mm rotor 105s and 90-100 kg of rider?
    Does it matter if you use larger CX Sprint vs CX ray spokes?

    munrobiker
    Free Member

    Given you’re a big lad I’d say 28 spokes.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Yeah I guess, 4 extra spokes pr wheel isn’t much more than 25 grams extra pr wheel.

    sillyoldman
    Full Member

    Correct. 28 spokes for sure.

    joebristol
    Full Member

    I’d go 28 spokes if you have the choice.

    When I snapped a spoke on a Hunt 24 spoke wheel it was amazing how instantly and how far it went out of true. Shows the tension each spoke is under – for that reason on my mtb’s I’ve gone 32 spokes each time.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Looks like farsports only stock 24H hmm, think you can compensate by using thicker spokes? e.g. CX sprint (not forged?) over rays, or DT aero new over aerolite?

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Garrr, promised myself i wouldn’t get sucked into one of these discussions again.

    There’s 2 types of wheel stiffness, simply rim and spoke. If you have a stiff rim and soft spokes you get the whole rim wobbling (and therefore rubbing the brake pads if you had rim brakes). If you have a soft rim you get the lower half of the wheel squirming about. Basically you need enough spokes to prevent the former from happening (even with disk brakes), the latter is down to the rim.

    Then there’s strength. Thicker spokes will help resit the spokes themselves snapping. But would put more force on the spoke holes of the rim itself. And thicker spokes would tend to concentrate stress on fewer of them because they don’t deflect, whereas thin spokes stretch and therefore the rim takes that load to the others.

    I’m your weight and have a 28h road wheel with 1.5mm spokes, no problems, I actually spec’d that to keep the load on the rim down as it’s a very lightweight rim.

    You have to consider the whole wheel as a complete system, ask farsports if they have a weight limit, they might be perfectly happy with 24h and standard spokes for your weight/riding.

    Alternatively, I can’t remember if it was ICAN or lightbike that offered a heavier/stronger/stiffer option for a few dollars more than their standard rims.

    .

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Thx – Yep farsports say 120 kg is the limit for their 60 mm 24 hole wheelsets, they do offer a lighter and possibly stronger rim (but the limit states the same) for $200 more so not sure about that.

    Wonder what spokes would be ideal here, CX rays, sprint (not forged like rays?), DT aero or DT aerolite (too expensive) and whether alu or brass nipples would be better, Sapim goes on about their alu nipples being the shiz.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Never aluminium nipples. They’re only good for skinny people living in the desert who never wash their bikes. If you so much as ride through a patch of fog they’ll seize, corrode and crack.

    I built myself a set of 1250g summer wheels on a budget and even then I decided aluminium nipples were a step too far.

    aberdeenlune
    Free Member

    I reckon as a big guy commuting you should get a set of HED Adrennes. Don’t worry about aero worry about durability. Yes the deep sections will be faster but won’t be as reliable or last long.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    @thisisnotaspoon right I came to the same conclusion, why risk it for a few grams. Unfortunately they only have 24 hole rims, but perhaps getting rims with no holes in the rim bed will make em a bit stronger?

    Rim: 60 mm deep 25 mm wide U-shape disc, UD matte, 24/24H, Tubeless (no holes in rim bed) clincher compatible, 565 grams
    Hubs: DT350 straight pull center lock disc, Thru axle 12×100 12×142 Shimano freehub 10/11s, 54T ratchet
    Spokes: Sapim CX-Sprint black
    Nipples: Sapim Brass nipples black


    @aberdeenlune
    I don’t really commute, but ride 3-4 times a week. If strength alone was what I wanted I’d stick with my Shimano RS 170.

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    Yep farsports say 120 kg is the limit for their 60 mm 24 hole wheelsets, they do offer a lighter and possibly stronger rim (but the limit states the same) for $200 more so not sure about that…………….

    right I came to the same conclusion, why risk it for a few grams. Unfortunately they only have 24 hole rims, but perhaps getting rims with no holes in the rim bed will make em a bit stronger?

    It’s not the rim bed that’s the problem, although that might help make them a little stiffer, maybe, it would be the bit where the nipples sit.

    If you’re under the weight limit I wouldn’t worry too much. I think the shimano wheelsets are all 24/16 spoke? If farsports are confident the rim is strong enough for 24 spokes then they should be fine. I’d maybe have a look at ican or lightbike as two other reputable manufacturers who might offer more customization.

    The ones I was thinking of were ~$20 more expensive and added a bit of weight, i.e. you paid for some extra carbon if you were a big guy/sprinter, not ~$200 to go upto a higher grade of carbon as a weight weenie (although I suppose they probably offer both options).

    Still think your mad, I was struggling to keep it in a straight line on the CX bike in the wind yesterday! Deep rims would have definitely been sub-optimal! Be interesting to see if they make any real world difference.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    The ones I was thinking of were ~$20 more expensive and added a bit of weight

    Do you have a model name? The one they specced is FSC60CM-25T

    Still think your mad

    Yeah the winds here are 35 km/h today, but it it doesn’t work out at least I should be able to resell them.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Wheels ordered, see how this turns out!

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    f

    Coronavirus is allegedly under control, wheels shipped, final spec:

    60 x 25 mm OD U-profile carbon clinchers, w/o brake track, tubeless ready (no holes in rim bed)
    DT350 24H Straight-pull centerlock thru axle 54T ratchet
    CX Sprint spokes black (stronger than Rays maybe)
    Black brass nipples
    Weight TBD

    £558 delivered duty paid.

    njee20
    Free Member

    I weigh a fair bit less than you, and my winter bike has 50mm carbon wheels. They’re fine. A bit ‘skittish’ in strong crosswinds, but not that bad at all.

    I’ve got Farsports rims on the summer bike too, and they’ve been great.

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Thanks njee! Looking forwards to testing them! (and to get rid of my 2.1 kg shimano wheelset that barely clicks..).

    yohandsome
    Free Member

    Does anyone want to see a review?

    nixie
    Full Member

    No, you’ve pretty much done it in the other threads.

    mashr
    Full Member

    Based on 4 miles of riding?

    ogden
    Free Member

    Does anyone want to see a review?

    You’re gonna do it anyway, you might as well!

    I’d be more interested in the ordering process, times issues etc.

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    Does anyone want to see a review?

    I’d actually be a little bit interested how will you be objectively testing the aero magic of your new wheels? Will it involve bridge sprinting again? 😉

    I have a notional (and of course untested and unproven) theory that the majority of any aero benefits on a road bike can be achieved with a deeper/wider ‘U’ profile rim on the front (a bit like what you’ve ordered), and that it’s diminishing returns on the back…
    To that end I sort of want to just get a 60-80mm deep rim for the front only and stick to a relatively shallow/lighter/cheaper (Aluminium?) rear rim, i.e. aesthetic mismatched but functional wheels.

    It’s actually worth watching Hambini’s video on how an Aero wheel actually works (see below).

    What I drew from it was that maximising undisturbed flow over upper and lower ‘chord’ sections is more useful than having some sort of aerofoil derived rim/tyre section.
    Obviously according to Hambini everyone is a witless bellend, but his actual explanation is clearer and makes more sense than most manufacturer’s aero-babble…

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    What I drew from it was that maximising undisturbed flow over upper and lower ‘chord’ sections is more useful than having some sort of aerofoil derived rim/tyre section.
    Obviously according to Hambini everyone is a witless bellend, but his actual explanation is clearer and makes more sense than most manufacturer’s aero-babble…

    I dunno. As he says NACA foils are the gold standard, but:
    -He sort of glosses over the fact that in a wheel the back half is going backwards and generating vortices, and also that they’re generally more difficult in the real world as the front half generates lift in a cross wind where the back half doesn’t.
    -He also doesn’t mention the relationship between chord length, speed and vortex shedding. Longer chord lengths work better at yaw angles in the same way if you’ve ever windsurfed you pull the sail in and nothing happens for a split second untill the dagger board starts to generate lift because they’re generally very thin and high aspect ratios. Compared to a long keeled yacht which whilst slower to accelerate overall can generate lift from it’s keel at much lower speeds.
    -zipp dimples, I dunno, the aim is to artificially induce turbulence because turbulent air doesn’t detach early and form vortices. Not sure how solidworks models CFD but if it’s laminar he should have got a nice symmetrical flow pattern once the model converges, if it’s turbulent then you run the simulation long enough that you can produce an average, but crucially the average actually shows nice clean detachments and a thin boundary layer. Also he could have modeled just one side and saved half the computer time (unless he was modeling at some yaw angle).

    He’s got a lot of qualitative opinions there (streamlines showing vortices are bad). But doesn’t give any quantitative results, or explain why everyone’s wind tunnel data is different to his CFD model. A model that you can’t validate is pretty useless. What he should have done is find some data for a wheel, model that wheel accurately, then prove he could replicate it in his CFD. THEN tried to model other profiles.

    Basically its a Hambini video, high on rubbishing everyone else, low on actual facts.

    n0b0dy0ftheg0at
    Free Member

    Does anyone want to see a review?

    Sure, if you have multiple runs on same roads in same direction and take into account wind direction/speed; traffic lights and juctions; traffic levels; tyre models and pressure; your power output; your body position; your clothing; water bottles; other kit attached to bike; things stashed in your jersey etc. compared to non-aero wheels on same bike. 😉

    cookeaa
    Full Member

    I don’t think that video is without merit, he is really just trying to communicate theory more in layman’s terms, not conclusively demonstrate anything. He is certainly glossing over things that seem to contradict each other simply to keep the presentation simple and not get into the weeds and discuss the various compromises and tradeoffs that those inevitably lead to…

    His CFD screen grabs are more cut down runs, just to provide illustrations rather than definitive evidence…

    I’ll be honest, I had merrily not thought about how rim depth affects those top/bottom chords and laminar flow over those sections, but I had struggled to reconcile how an “aero” (NACA derived) profile could work in the middle third for both the forward and rear portion of the wheel as it moves through the air, optimising/maximising those chords makes more sense to me now than trying to create an aerofoil shape that’s always going to spend as. Much time moving forwards as it is backwards through the air…

    Hence something more like a 25mm wide flat sided ‘U’ section that will at least present similar a similar cross-section (when combined with the tyre) both at the front and back of the wheel as it is rotating, makes sense to me, this is obviously a compromise as is chooseing a rim depth to maximise “chordage” set against sidewinds/yaw and to some extent weight…

    But like I said, unproven theories…

    ogden
    Free Member

    @yohandsome have you got a link to the wheels you ordered?

    thisisnotaspoon
    Free Member

    His CFD screen grabs are more cut down runs, just to provide illustrations rather than definitive evidence…

    They’re showing an un-converged simulation, basically if you have turbulence then you run the simulation in a different mode that doesn’t converge, but at the end presents the average of the last however many runs you can leave it running for, which doesn’t then show the vortices. If you want to show vortices which are inherently something unstable that won’t converge you can show the flow patterns over time and both the turbulence on the training edges the vortices being shed.

    I think he’s a “and now for the science” bit from a shampoo commercial, I don’t think his pretty pictures back up what he’s saying.

    The other issue is surely a U shape profile should be of maximum benefit att he top and bottom where it’s presenting a nice flat surface, rather than the concave NACA profile. If you split the wheel into 4 (top, bottom, front, back, the NACA profile is only working optimally in 1/4 of the wheel, and it’s not the important bit. So either the aero gains in the bit he says isn’t so important, actually are*, or a U shaped profile is better for all the reasons every manufacturer seems to have settled on.

    Whilst I’d take manufacturers claims with a pinch of salt. His simulation and conclusion are at odds with what everyone else seems to have found in actual wind tunnel testing and in the real world?

    *I’d argue they are, despite his argument that Re is too low for zips dimples to have an impact, he then spends the whole presentation talking about turbulence. Anything you put in turbulent flow doesn’t then need to be so optimized as the air won’t detach from it and form vortices (that’s why zipp claim they use dimples). Hence why a NACA profile isn’t completely useless.

    damascus
    Free Member

    @yohandsome

    Does anyone want to see a review?

    Yes please.

Viewing 38 posts - 1 through 38 (of 38 total)

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