⛰️ The Hillwalking thread ⛰️

Whats the score with climbing guides these days, books, apps or website? Or all 3?

It depends where you’re going and what you want to do. I think most people still like a paper book but the rockfax app has good coverage of some areas.

Cheers, guess I’ll look for solutions to the “local spots” and work out as needed from there.

Anyway, in the spirit of daydreaming about stuff you might possibly at some point maybe so. If you was to pick your first multi pitch route, what would yo go for?

Having just watched the BMCs Sou’Wester Slabs video my imagination has been triggered about the possibilities. Which frankly, also seem very far away as a possibility.

I’m looking forward to this thread being updated over the Easter holidays with lots of photos

Does anyone have anything exciting planned?

If you was to pick your first multi pitch route, what would yo go for?

Having just watched the BMCs Sou’Wester Slabs video my imagination has been triggered about the possibilities. Which frankly, also seem very far away as a possibility.

Sou’Wester Slabs has straightforward climbing, especially of you skip the 3 Tier Chimney. It does make for quite a long day though. I think it was my second multi-pitch route after Caliban’s Creep the day before. It’s also very good. If you want something easier on Arran Boundary Ridge in Coire Daingean is worthwhile.

If you want to do something shorter, with a shorter walk in there are plenty of options on the Cobbler or in Glen Coe.

Does anyone have anything exciting planned?

We’re in Yorkshire for a week. Mostly climbing but might run a few hills.

You?

@spin – poor you, all those lovely mountains near home !

We’re heading up to Teesdale for some relaxing walking and maybe some hybrid/gravel cafe routes. There will be cake (hopefully local Fat Rascals)

poor you, all those lovely mountains near home !

Ha ha, 😂

I’ve got amazing stuff on my doorstep but I love Yorkshire and I’ve spent a lot of time there over the years.

Cracking day out with eldest.

Tryfan, Bristly ridge , and Devils Kitchen

👍

Recently pretty muched finished the Anglesey coastal path, at least the bits that actually visit the coast.

It’s a fantastic way to enjoy days when Snowdonia is clagged in.

Highlights for me were Newborough to Abermenai Point, out along the beach and back through the Warren.
Then Newborough to RAF Valley, my word, it’s just magnificent.
The east coast from Beaumaris all the way up to Amlwch is equally inspiring, but a little muddy in winter. Some good coastal scrambling if you’re that way inclined.
Amlwch to Hollyhead is wild, but worth it. Go to Parys Mountain, it might take a day to really explore the place but it’s worth it.
The only bit we’ve not done is the North East. Next time.

Done most of the Lynn path as well, but a different story.

Damn everyone that got out yesterday, I ended up in bed for the whole day with headaches, sore throat/coughing, fatigue.

Didnt even get to climb Thursday either.

Whats even worse is that we dont automatically get bank holidays off, so I actually used time in lieu from working last weekend* for that. It at least seems to be improving at a fair pace.

On the plus side, I bought some trad gear (effectively the start of a rack), nothing exciting, just stuff for practising belay set ups (slings and biners). And am chatting with an MIC I know through work about a couple of days out.

Might manage a short walk and servicing the bikes but thatll be about all for today.

*Which is probably where ive picked this up from. Barstads.

I wouldnt complain piemonster after yesterday I feel like ive been hit by a car .. my knees are killing me

On Arran this weekend and went up Caisteal Abhail, absolutely stunning views, couple of golden eagles too

/\/\ You can GTF with those pictures 🙃

Closest im getting is buying a guidebook.

@stevedoc

Is that Sinister Gully or a more interesting Tryfan line?

Tryfan is a belter of a hill, no matter which direction you approach it from and the route you took is right up there as one of my favourite hill days.

Yep sinister gully up Bristly and across the pinnacle gap ..that let’s say is exposed enough to make me have a wobble.

@matt_outandabout where is that first photo? Beautiful view with the Loch and the snowy tops

Matt is on the Drumochter hills with a view across to the very remote Beinn Alder.
Guidebook wise the new Scottish Rock Climbs from the SMC Wired range has really inspirational photos in it but it is a big tome and quite expensive. You could always take pics of the relevent pages. I did notice that the photo diagram of Dunkeld Cave Crag had the route I put the photo up for marked in the wrong place. Guidebooks always have mistakes, hopefully this one doesn’t have too many more.

Thats actually the book arriving today (according to the tracking)

At this point Im really after an inspiration reference guide rather than a detailed pocket sized topo guide. And im sure I saw it weighs best part of a kilo!?

Anyway, still ill today, so everyone thats got out this weekend ‘**** you 😝’

a detailed pocket sized topo guide

That’s what your phone is for! Either with the Rockfax app or a photo of the route.

Anyway, still ill today, so everyone thats got out this weekend ‘**** you

If it’s any consolation it’s pissing it down in Inverness right now. Did have a nice day soloing some easy routes at Reiff yesterday though! 🙂

As youre in the Highlands @Spin, how do you find the coverage with Rockfax?

I don’t use the Rockfax app much in Scotland as I have all the relevant paper guides. As yet Rockfax coverage is pretty patchy in Scotland. Gary Latter’s 2 volume guide to Scotland is a pretty good compromise between cost and coverage. Unless you’re climbing pretty extensively in one area most people will not need more comprehensive guides.

@fazzini – beaten to it by Chickenman.

Not the most exciting of walking, but stunning views to the north. And a belter of a day.

*adds Afterthought Arete to the list

Ardverikie Wall at the back of Loch Laggan is possibly the best route of the grade in the country. A lot easier to get to than Arran plus you can cycle in most of the way. I’m not sure how easy it is to find gear and set up belays, I’ve not done it with a rope on so can’t comment on it’s suitability for a first multipitch route, but it’s certainly less intimidating than some of the Glencoe routes at a similar grade.

Ardverickie Wall has been talked about (as a second).

UKC Logbook suggests some gear placement issues at times, which if you miss create a risk of ground fall.

Did Moelwyn Mawr above Blaenau at the weekend – really good. Looked like a nice road climb to the dam as well, a lot out doing it.

Did you park up for Tryfan @stevedoc or get the shuttle bus? Fancied the Glyders but didn’t fancy the Alpine start necessary to park your car (seems like loads of argy bargy on that road with some new double yellows recently laid down).

We parked directly under Tryfan at 8am and we were lucky . Last time I went was a random Saturday in May and loads of spaces .I think a lot was caused by the fact is was the nicest day of the year so far and a bank holiday.

3 nice walks in the Peaks over Easter weekend, aside from walking up to Mam Tor to look at the Paragliders some smart timing and route choice meant crowds were minimised.

Looked like a nice road climb to the dam as well, a lot out doing it.

The famed Stwlan Dam climb.

First outdoor climb after work, first abseil too for a bonus point.

Felt pretty confident I could have lead the route too.

adds Afterthought Arete to the list

I must have done this 20+ times and it never fails to please. It can be combined with Final Selection to make an excellent day out. Probably best to abseil down to the bottom of Final Selection.

Yeh I was reading that would work as a follow up route, steep gully access from the plateau can be a bit exciting for Final Selection.

Afterthought Arete on paper makes a lot of sense, good rock, well protected, superb setting, some exposure but on relatively easy ground so I can focus more on experimenting the exposure without really at much risk of a fall.

Experimenting = experiencing

steep gully access from the plateau can be a bit exciting for Final Selection.

If you’re not used to that sort of terrain it could be pretty scary. Very easy to ab in from the Afterthought Arete side of the gully then pick up the sling afterwards.

Would you have done Pygmy Ridge by any chance?

That’s another route in the area I have my eyes on.

And for final selection, is the finish the corner on the inside of the second platform being used as a belay stance here?
https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=369277

Would you have done Pygmy Ridge by any chance?

I have. To be honest, most of the easier routes in that corrie aren’t great. They are vegetated, often greasy and have quite a bit of loose rock. The approach to PR is up fairly unpleasant ground too.

And for final selection, is the finish the corner on the inside of the second platform being used as a belay stance here?

I think so, yes. There’s one of me soloing it on UKC: https://www.ukclimbing.com/photos/dbpage.php?id=203908

It’s not as steep as it looks and the holds are huge. Another one to look at in the Gorms is Crystal Ridge on Macdui

Ill park the Pgymy in that case.

Yeh, some of the top down photos of Final Selection show the gradient well from the climbers body positions, looks like a slab with plenty of big foot holds which is an ideal looking introductory type of route.

Is the protection making heavy use of Cams?

Is the protection making heavy use of Cams?

No idea, I’ve only ever soloed it!

It’s pretty heavily featured so passive pro should be fine.