[Closed] Wood flooring - floating or glue down?

Did my conservatory last summer and just laid it on top of a membrane (as per the instructions). It's been fine thru summer and winter with no movement. I think gluing it down is asking for trouble.
It took a bit of time to get the first edge down as that wall had a few returns in it but after that it is so quick.

I assume that you mean flooring that is designed to be glued rather than gluing floating laminate down. Won't make much difference on a large area to be honest especially if you are removing the skirting. Floating will involve some sort of click which can be frustrating whereas glue may not.

My guess would be that glued down would require a completely level/flat sub floor.

If you go for floating, then get the best quality underlay you can.

Floating. I've lain a bunch, and it's the standard in Scandinavia and I've never even heard of anyone gluing

What type of “engineered” flooring is it? I.e. looks like a full plank when viewed from the top or lots of little staves making up each plank? Thickness? Construction - ie 2-layered ply underneath wear layer or multi-layer ply? Regular t/g or click?

Thread hijack. Anyone know how a floating wood/laminate floor laid on u delay compares to a carpet and underlay for insulation?

@irc our upstairs is notably warmer with laminate than it was with carpet. The laminate is basically mdf with a layer of plastic on top. I think the insulation is coming from the underlay. We used the green fibreboard stuff from B&Q.
You don't get drafts commuting through the floor with laminate either.

I don't like floating. Had it a few times and don't like the soft feeling underfoot.

I went for engineered wood in living room last time, solid floor. The fitters laid self levelling compound first, even though the floor was more or less level. Then fixed the boards.

Way better than floating IMO.

I did floating with a thin layer of foam for underlay. Really nice and quite warm too. Doesn't lift or warp with changes in temperature/humidity. If I had the money then solid wood or engineered. I guess they leave some gaps when fitting though?

We just did whole of downstairs with Howdens luxury vinyl. Look like wood, has built in underlay, is fine for water in kitchens and bathrooms and feels good underfoot, not cheap, but guys who fitted it did a great job. It all comes in planks like laminate and clicks together.

If you glue flooring down don't make a mistake or it gets sweary real quick.

Any vapor drive?
If not any your slab is true within floor spec then I'd look at a "double stick" install.
I just did a 1/4" glue down cork over concrete with glue down 3/4" t&g engineered oak. Feels and sounds amazing under footfall
2nd floor slab though so no vapor concerns
I've done slab on grade with floated 6mil barrier, 2x 1/8 cork, radiant heat film and 1/2" t&g engineered bamboo. Also feels good but slightly hollow in comparison under footfall

Some flooring adhesives will satisfy vapor barrier requirements and if using cork you have to be careful what adhesive you use.

I’d get it glued down. to a plywood base floating on top of whatever underlay/Vapor barrier you’re putting down. Makes for a solid-feeling surface with the potential for ‘easy’ replacement afterwards.

Underfloor heating?

As for

I’ll be pulling the skirting boards off if that makes any difference (cannot stand scotia trims).

I imagine ‘scotia trims’ are those ugly bits of wooden coving stuff. If you have tall skirting with a suitable profile you can put an additional layer of flat ~5-10mm deep MDF or other wood with a suitably routed edge on the lower part of the profile. This should readily cover the necessary gap for an engineered floor without the trouble of ripping off the skirting. Worked well on our Victorian skirting and in a way the deeper lower part of the profile helps the skirting look less lanky at ~20cm tall.