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My old cheapie log splitter is nearing its end of days and isnt particularly nice to use. I've got a large stack of mixed hardwood and some big Scots pine rounds to split.
Any point in looking past a fiskars X25 ?
I bought a cheapo one form Lidl a few years ago and it's been great. They're not often on sale which doesn't help you, but I don't think you have to spend silly amounts if you can keep a similar one reasonably sharp. Which you would need to do with a more expensive one anyway if it gets heavy use?
Any point in looking past a fiskars X25 ?
X27 is my weapon of choice, does everything I need and nice to handle
Gransfors Bruk - splitting axe, maul or wedge; far superior to Fiskars.
I just got whatever 2.5kg wooden handle splitter was in my local hardware shop. Sharpen when needed and replace the handle when required.
That Fiskars looks like the business, though it's about twice the price.
X25 is a good axe, works well and good quality for a fair, not hyped price. Different axes work better or worse on different woods though so no single axe is perfect. I've far too many tbh, but when I broke the handle on one of my lighter axes and didn't have the spare time to rehaft it I bought a cheap fiskars a like from spears and Jackson in x25 and x23 sizes (there isn't a x23 but you know... That size). My x27 and x21 are better, as are several other axes.
If after one axe get the x25 or a husqvarna/gardena s2800 if that's not too big for you.
I got a cheap splitting maul from the industrial supplies about 25 yrs ago now, It's due a new handle again but I've never sharpened it.
I’ve never sharpened it.
Have you ever used it? :p
Does everyone else use an axe? I've got a wood grenade and lump hammer which I quite like
Hate wedges and found a grenade to be an awful wedge. Axe is much better for me, when in 3' diameter oak rounds. Everybody has differences though, if you like wedges, carry on
Fiskars here. Had others but now have a pair for fiskars and rate them.
Wood grenade is slow as hell - it's also noisy with all the metal on metal contact. I have one for stubborn knotty wood.
I also have a hydraulic splitter I was bequithed by my grandfather. It's an alko kobar 5t. It's fine for days when I don't feel like swinging an axe or a hammer (ie after a big ride)
How ever
My 20 quid bnq fibreglass handle splitting maul (which I've run an edge on) is by far the quickest way to split wood. I just throw the nasty bits to the side and do them later with the grenade & hammer
Another x27 user here, I've got a grenade as well but I haven't used it since getting the maul, it's about as much use as a butter knife in comparison.
cheap maul from the local mole valley shop. not sure sharpening a maul would make a lot of difference...
technique seem to be the key. somedays I have it, somedays I don't
Have you ever used it? :p
Yes! I don't claim to be a woodchopping expert but I've used it for the whole time, 14 years of that feeding a 12kw jotul that went through a lot of wood, currently on logs 2-3 foot in diameter. Occasionally i've had to re-haft it but I've never wanted either my splitter, or my kindling hatchet to be sharp. I have an elwell felling axe and a hultafors small axe for then. Anything I cant get through either gets the wedge or more usually noodled with the chainsaw.
Genuine question- I'm happy to put an edge on if it helps, I sharpen the axes when needed but wedges aren't sharp and I see the maul as a 'flying wedge' why should it be sharp?
technique seem to be the key. somedays I have it, somedays I don’t
As with everything. Choosing where to try and split, the wood. Getting a good fast swing.
I didn't say I sharpened it. Just an edge.
Prior to addition of the edge it was a blunt 3 or 4mm face and wasn't very effective . It's now more pointed and it is much more effective.
Yet to find anything it wont split, nice weight to it too.
far superior to Fiskars.
A traditionalist i see!
Thing is - all the gransfors fans or those recommending fancy brands...
On a maul you don't want a wooden handle. They get literally hammered. The Fiskars type fiberglass handles just last and last and last and there's no real need for steel/sharpening snobbery with a maul. I wouldn't look beyond an X27/husqvarna
Mine only really gets damaged when I **** up, either swinging too long and overshooting the log, or this time using a sledge on the poll th get through something with really horrible knots to save getting the saw out and hitting the shaft, other than that I find them fine. the first one I had was fibreglass, that suffered from the same abuse but when the handle split I couldnt just change the shaft.
Not a gransfors fan, well I am but they're almost too nice to bloody well use. A friend has one and its more ornament than tool.
neither 'wood' i @joe DYSWIDT?
the granförs are lovely heirloom things , granted. I live in Sweden and would love to support my swedish brothers, but fiskars from finland, the x27 , is a better product.
However, more axes r bettererer, especially for the coming zombie apocalypse
Hultafors or Grantfors Bruk for me, but they are only just up the road from us (well, sort of. Ok, not really).
But, when the going gets tough, we use a 3phase hydraulic splitter.
Oregon splitting maul from the local chainsaw shop, cheap and does the job
Sthil splitting maul because it was the cheapest one in the local hardware with an acceptable feeling handle, standard wedge and a grenade, which get used dependent on the wood. 30 year old sledge from i believe Wilkinson sword gets brought in when using the wedges sometimes.
Keep thinks when the Sthil shaft gets a bit more damaged i'll replace with one they do with a metal sheath but 15 years going strong.
Used to work on an estate with a Gransfors and a Fiskars in the woodshed. Don't recall ever seeing anyone use the Fiskars as a first choice...
The head on the Gransfors is a much fatter wedge shape and it has considerably more weight in it than the Fiskars. Most of the time you're not even really swinging the Gransfors, you're just lifting it and guiding it down onto the round. Fiskars just felt too light and unstable in comparison. Fiskars was also too long - much easier to flip the Gransfors (when you're stuck in a difficult round) and bring in down on the butt.
Fiskars X27 here, done me very well for 5 years and a fair bit of splitting. Including some post bike ride chop'n'quaff, drinks and danger emotional therapy sessions with friends. 😀
Probably bought after suggestions on here.
whatever axe you get, get an old car tyre too. put your logs in there, chop away without having to run after the bits, bending and lifting them back onto your log with every blow.
What about one of them screw splitters ?. Take the hard work out of the task.
I mean this isnt the 14th century
Screw splitter .
Anyone got a risk assessment for one of them ?
Is there a correct way to do this?
I see the suggestion of a car tyre to help, but do I need a bock to lift the wood I'm chopping to a suitable chop height, or is just laying it in the middle of a tyre OK for those of us who are taller? I thought that the block brought the axe kinda level with your shins so you down swing further and end up swinging backwards.
I may however, be overthinking this.
Never used a fiskars. I have a splitting maul, which is way better than an axe for splitting. It's worth re-inforcing the handle near to the head with a piece of metal or hosepipe.
In terms of splitters, I've also use an Oxdale splitter, which are really durable. It handles almost any gnarly pieces with ease.
A splitting block just stops the blade from hitting the ground. Once you understand how much force is needed, you can get away with balancing them on each other or tapping it so they just blow open.
+1 Fiskars X27. I prefer the fibreglass handle for prolonged use, my wooden haft maul gives me blisters after a while
I've got an old maul , possibly a roughneck that does the job but if money is no problem...
Gransfors Bruks Splitting Maul Axe 450 is a thing of beauty. 🪵🪓
It depends on the wood, but for stuff that isn't difficult then the golf swing with a moderately light axe (3.5 ish lbs, 28" works for me) is super fast and very little handling. With the right technique, such that the log is struck with the axe past your feet, it's completely safe. It's fast and easy on the body. Harder bits of wood, knottier stuff, a low block works well.
Any cheap maul, we've even got some found when revisiting felling sites that haven't been worked for 20+ years.
Use them for splitting 1.2m lengths into billets for stacking and for splitting rings down. Got a tyre now so I don't have to keep picking up logs, just need to cut a bigger splitting block.
Back in the yard and large rings go under an Oxdale.
What about one of them screw splitters ?. Take the hard work out of the task.
I mean this isnt the 14th century
It's a competitive sport in these parts ... I do it partly for the exercise, but definitely not like the woodchoppers. The eucalypt hardwood I split is pretty hard so it can take a while, Ironbark, Mess mate, Tallowood, Blackbutt, Turpentine - Janka's 7-12kn.
I've known a couple of people injure themselves though. One bloke (he owns Two Metre Tall brewery in Tasmania... and is 2m tall) broke his wrist/hand, and a fireman friend smashed his shin pretty badly.
Sharpen a maul? Really? I know darn well mine has been in use since 2000 getting through tons of wood every year.Eg did my dads delivery of oak last year. One of those double trailers puller behind a forwarder. Same most years plus mine. Even when it has been used for breaking concrete all I do is hammer the burrs over. Sharpen? Nope. New handles from the bits of ash I save up for such purposes.
Like most things I guess there is a huge amount of snobbery about expensive tools which may be pretty but do the work no better than something basic. Bit like Park allen keys I guess. Find an old ex army axe if you want a good one.
Fiskars copy by Draper
https://www.toolstop.co.uk/draper-94987-fibreglass-splitting-axe-710mm/