[Closed] What glue for (joiner content)

Impact adhesive.

Not sure what a john carr door is, presuming it is wood?

Why not use wood glue?

As above, wood to wood, use wood glue (PVA). You'll need to clamp it for a good join but you'll get away with screws or weights to hold it while the glue dries

PVA, cheap and sticks like.

Work in a joiners shop and the most popular glue by far.

PVA smells great too....

Thanks for replies, a john carr door is a wooden /hardboard door and the plywood is oak veneer (so do not want to screw/pin on) I have PVA but did not think it had the grip required. Cheers for replies so far
p.s. time for setting is not important.

I've got black hands from a polyurethene glue fail earlier today, so yes, use pva but it'll need perfect contact between the two materials to work.
If this is on the outside of an external door I wouldn't rate your chances of it staying on for very long.

D4 grade pva, something like Titebond 2 or 3. but if the ply is thicker than 5.5mm, you should use polyurethane adhesive(joiners mate etc)

Dont think an external door would be hardboard 😉

You can tape the veneer down if its on the edges of the door, If its on the face lay another door on top and some heavy items to hold it leave for a couple of hours, should be well stuck. A nice warm room would help.

I make guitars as a hobby as well and use PVA glue on veneers very successfully.

sounds like the first answer - contact / impact adhesive is the best then. But as the name suggests you'll only get one shot at placing the ply on the door though. As soon as the two surfaces touch they'll stick. PVA would give some plenty of time to slide the ply around before it sticks but you'd need to put some pressure on it while it sets

If it's Oak I prefer cascamite, but only because it doesn't stain Oak like PVA does. For an Oak veneer you should be OK with PVA on the other side, just don't let any dribble on the good side.

cupboard door under stairs (cannot believe there is no standard size for this door). I wanted an oak door but I would need to buy one and cut it down so it seemed easier to glue oak facing onto existing door.

We glue 7mm skins onto a carcass to make door and use bog standard PVA. Never had a door fail yet, been making them for 10 years. Mind you the press is quite big.

I've got black hands from a polyurethene glue fail earlier today,

too late now... but next time - WD40 is good for cleaning polyerethane off skin before it sets

D4 grade pva, something like Titebond 2 or 3. but if the ply is thicker than 5.5mm, you should use polyurethane adhesive(joiners mate etc)

Make sure you give the shiny hardboard a good sanding with 60 grit or you'll busy be sticking it to varnish and it won't take

Yup, probably need 20 clamps plus weight for a door!