[Closed] Trad Climbing Gear?

Ukclimbing.com for classifieds.

Rock and Run - be very wary of secondhand climbing kit unless you know where it has come from.
Textiles degrade over time and with use. Most really don't know just how much they do until you show them how little it takes to break a sling rated at 22kn thats been looked after/stored incorrectly - as little as 2-3kn with UV damage! Then theres edge cuts, abrasion, etc.
Before anyone pipes up about it - It's what I do for a living and have done for 24yrs and for some of the largest manufacturers in the business.
For what they cost from the likes of Rock and Run nowadays it really isn't worth buying most stuff used.

We discussed used climbing gear a few weeks ago. Consensus seemed to be that textile components are a no-no but metalwork is fine. Personally I wouldn't chance either of them, doubly so for trad.

Here. It was actually someone wanting to sell some stuff, so you might find something you need on there. I'd suggest reading the comments though (there's also some links to other sites).

http://singletrackworld.com/forum/topic/stw-climbers-pricing-help-please

Before anyone pipes up about it - It's what I do for a living and have done for 24yrs and for some of the largest manufacturers in the business.

I heard that some tests have shown that UV degradation might be much less important than previously thought. Do you know anything about that?

To OP, nuts and the likes don't tend to be found at massive discounts. Just decide what you want and Google it. Are you in a club? Some places offer discounts for BMC membership or membership of an affiliated club.

Its massively detrimental to fibres - especially the likes of Spectra and Dyneema.
Nylon (which 90%'ish are made from) holds up better but it is still the single worst thing for anything after actual fibre damage (edge cuts/abrasion). Chemical damage is unlikely in trad/sport climbing unlike Rope Access.
I've seen slings give at under 2kn from UV exposure (admittedly longer than normal) but thats 200kgs not 2200kgs that it should've been. Freaked a lot of very high level people out that day!
Cam slings that've been used for a full season for example have gone at around 13kn in testing before now.
Thats why the industry put lifespans on kit. Even with ideal storage conditions and ZERO usage there is a "measurable deterioration" after 5 yrs on fibres.

Hmmm, maybe those 80's Friends I've got lurking under the stairs should be sold to someone I don't like...

Joe Brown and needle sports another couple of good shops. Also banana fingers but never used them. I usually get most of my stuff from needle sports - proper good shop, very decent staff and on the one occasion something went wrong, they went way way further than they needed to in order to sort it out.

Second Needle Sports.

Hexcentics 2nd hand are OK as you can rethread them, maybe some of the larger wires if the kit is obviously little used equally with large screwgates and friends. There's not anything else I can think of that I'd risk 2nd hand.
IMO buy wire gates rather than the old style snap links, you can never have too many big screwgates and nylon tape/slings any day over dyneema.

Not sure why would want to save a few quid on equipment whose sole urpose is to save your life.compared to mountain biking climbing is a cheap sport.

This might get you started
[url= http://www.rockrun.com/wild-country-wild-wire-quickdraw-5-pack ]http://www.rockrun.com/wild-country-wild-wire-quickdraw-5-pack[/url]

[quote=chickenman ]Hmmm, maybe those 80's Friends I've got lurking under the stairs should be sold to someone I don't like...

I've re-slinged the one I own (and all my hexes and larger nuts on cord). As discussed previously, the metal bits don't deteriorate with age - falls might be an issue for something more delicate like a Friend, but I know mine has never had a fall.

Sorry, meant to link to the same offer for WC quickdraws of all the same length, not those oddball lengths.

I agree with them. Pro isn't for hanging on your harness to look cool. It's to save your life. Buy it new.

I hate these threads. They remind me that all my climbing gear has sat unused for years and I really should sell it. Got the biggest blue barrel in the world jammed and I bet half of that it metal and worth selling. Just can't bring myself to as it means that another part of my adventurous youth has gone.
Same with the two 10 foot long, 1960's Bilbo surfboards.

I agree with the points re the relative cost of new v old (there's not much in it so just go shiny)...but just curious...I assume those who would never buy used gear would also never climb with anyone?

I can't remember ever having to refuse to get on a route with someone because their gear wasn't brand new 🙂

I know the people I climb with look after their gear to a high standard, so I have no issue climbing with them.
I have refused to climb with due to dodgy gear or dodgy practice.

If I'm happy enough to climb with someone (as an equal, not 'taking' someone climbing) then I'm generally happy enough with their judgement and risk assessment, including of their own gear. Buying or using gear that someone no longer wants to use themselves and are outing is another matter.

This thread reminds me I really must get round to re-slinging my old friends, and the hexes are over due for new cord too 😐

I found a seventies JB helmet a few months ago, hiding in my garage. I think it's fibreglass. I don't plan to use it any more.

Dick's Climbing looks like good value, worth a look.

http://www.dicksclimbing.com/

Where/what are you planning on climbing? A rack for grit will look very different to one for the lakes/north wales/lime/the county. You don't need to spend a fortune on stuff. but it's help to know what you might need.

I got my gear out of the loft recently (small boast: to clean up a new route actually). I was amused by the Hex 10 - one of the first things I bought - I think I've placed it a handful of times ever. Don't buy one of them 🙂

I love my hex 10. It's been placed half a dozen times as far as I can remember but it's seen far more service threatening the feral children at Baildon Bank and fending off attacks from seagulls.

edit: actually, not to go all spinal tap but I think mine's an 11.

edit2: They're a godsend on narrow offwidths.

I used my hex 10 a few weeks ago for belay on Tryfan bach. Even used my friend 4 there too. Hex 10/11 generally best for awkward yorkshire grit cracks.

Love the distinctive sound of large hexes clinking around the crag 🙂

I loved my 11. Made sure I used it when ever possible. Good on mountain routes and once it was placed you didn't have to carry it, your second did 😀
A the other end of the scale I was always trying to find uses for my ground down Crack n Up's

My least used bit of gear is a 'slug' I won in a climbing comp back in '89

Big hexes: the human cowbell. Once placed an RP on the ungraded approach pitch of a Lakeland Hard Severe. Pro.

My least used bit of gear is a 'slug' I won in a climbing comp back in '89

There's a couple of routes in the county guide where they're suggested as essential gear. How are you on scrittly sandstone e5s that haven't been climbed since the ninties?

Big hexes: the human cowbell

I've still got moacs from my original rack, rethreaded they're as good as new, never use them anymore other than occasionally as runners. Never owned a massive hex, a girl I climbed with had one and it was ridiculous, handy on Yorkshire grit tho as I think someone says

Once placed an RP on the ungraded approach pitch of a Lakeland Hard Severe. Pro.

Placed a Swedge on a V Diff at Crag Lough. In my defense I was very hungover and I think the block which would normally have provided bomber gear was sitting at the bottom of the crag.

I'll ask beck for you; she uses Rockrun though, I know that much. There's a flash sale on at the minute, think you need to be a member to see the items though. Often very cheap stuff on there though, by the sounds of it.

Yer borrowdale stuff looked good! You need to get a climbing trip organized with holden....

If you join the BMC you'll get 15% of at Cotswold Outdoors (most people have one nearby). It really is a case of trawling the web though if you're after the very best deals, and not being fussy about brands.

How are you on scrittly sandstone e5s that haven't been climbed since the ninties?

I think I'll pass, especially as I haven't climbed so much since the 90's 🙂

The largest hexes can be great for belays and for dropping into cracks on easier climbs on gritstone.

Hexes are a godsend for winter climbing.

I've also used a couple of large ones to secure my car on a slope 🙂