Teenage kids x2
I exaggerate but their console/PC usage is pretty noticeable on the bill, as it is in the local environment. When we had a hot summer a couple of years back it was roasting in both their rooms so we had them play phone/tablet games for a while, to try and keep a lid on temperatures. We noticed it on the bill.
Not on an EV tariff as our two vehicles aren't big enough batteries to warrant it but interesting read as I'd not thought to use the app to work out average; both November and the average since going to Octopus Tracker in July is 16.8p.
So that I'm not entirely off-topic, one is a 2015 PHEV. Ran it through a dongle to discover my usable battery has gone down from 7.5kw to 5.3kw in the 5years we've owned it. Hey ho, I plan to hold it for another 5 years so will make interesting reading! 🙂
I got an ohme home pro charger installed yesterday, and I'm having trouble getting the electric tariff switched over to intelligent octopus.
In order to switch to intelligent octopus you go through a process in the octopus app where you select your charger type (ohme home pro), then select your car (merc EQC - which I know is not compatible with IO, hence using the ohme home pro), then the app asks you to log into your ohme home pro account to grant octopus access to control the charger, and this is the point where it all falls down. I log into my ohme account succesfully, and i get a page where it asks if I really want to give octopus access to the ohme account, I select "Confirm" to confirm I do, then octopus complains that it cant talk to the charger , I cant get past this part, so cant switch to IO.
The error message says to:-
- Check the charger is set up in the ohme app - it is because I can control the charger just fine from the ohme app
- Check the charger has a mobile signal - it does because I can control the charger from the ohme app
I've logged a ticket with ohme support, but I now fully expect technical support hell.
Anyone been through this and can help?
I note the charger firmware version is V1.32_202212011 - which (if that last part is a date) appears quite old - so is there a newer version available - what version do you have? and how can I force an update.
I'd be speaking to Octopus. FWIW mine linked fine.
^^^ different charger and car (Easee charger and an i4), but I had very similar messages when I tried to set up IO. I had to do it 3 times to get it to work, and then it just did !
I’d be speaking to Octopus
yeah, am going to
different charger and car (Easee charger and an i4), but I had very similar messages when I tried to set up IO. I had to do it 3 times to get it to work, and then it just did !
have tried about 30 times now - no joke - same issue.
My Ohme Pro linked to Octopus on first go. I've found Ohme customer service very responsive, haven't tried Octopus CS.
for anyone else who has trouble getting intelligent octopus up and running , I Managed to get it working by first clearing the storage for the octopus app, then removing and re-installing the app.
I had tried separately clearing storage, and removing the app, but never tried both together in that order.
Anyway, it all seems fine now, will see what the bill says at the end of the month
Just an FYI for an6 Ioniq 5 drivers on Sal Sac schemes who don’t have the car serviced by a Hyundai garage. My map software needed updating as it stopped doing predictive traffic. As I was passing my local Hyundai garage I popped in and asked about software updates.
1. They were horrified it had never seen a dealership in its 25k miles for software patches/updates.
2. They said don’t bother with the faff of going through Tusker and have booked it in direct to update the whole software system, including OTA infotainment updates going forward.
3. All free.
"Check the charger has a mobile signal – it does because I can control the charger from the ohme app"
Wait, what? Can the Charger not just connect to your wifi? If not, is there a specific network for this? Probably one of the other ones that doesn't work at my house.
After a couple of weeks searching, finally got a deposit down on a '19 plate i3S today.
Possibly the easiest sale the chap at the dealership will ever get. Next up, try and sort out some cheap home charging...
Wait, what? Can the Charger not just connect to your wifi? If not, is there a specific network for this? Probably one of the other ones that doesn’t work at my house.
No, the ohme chargers dont use wifi for their Internet connectivity they have a sim card built in and use the mobile networks. Apparently it's a roaming sim so can connect to any of the big 4 networks.
Good news. Unlike the ****ing idiocy of selling the contract for smart meters in the South to Telefonica then.
All the discussion here is about the running costs Viv á Vis the electricity used. I haven’t seen any references to the costs of insurance for EV’s…
I think that's what a lot of people don't take into account..
I mean you can buy a nice M4 for less than 20k..
But when you factor in fuel, insurance, servicing.. and what do the tyres cost on them, about 250 quid a piece?
I think talk of running cost generally is fairly irrelevant as it gives no real indication of efficiency and doesn't allow for cost of any solar, battery etc that a user may have invested in. Equally, it doesn't work in depreciation/cost to get into an EV.
I'd rather just talk about miles per kw as its definitive but then people have put effort into their set up and it may encourage others to know how cheap they can make the running cost with time/money invested upfront
I think both are important. It’s also something that needs thinking about differently to ICE cars, where the only thing that really matters is efficiency as fuel cost is relatively fixed. With an EV you need to think about the whole package, not just the car itself.
A very efficient car could be expensive to run if you only ever use public rapid chargers and choose them poorly. Equally a very inefficient car could still be very cheap to run if you charge at night on a good deal and never exceed the range.
The other thing that matters is range itself / my charging costs have dropped despite the work chargers that I use most of the time going from 4 to 22p/ke.hr and my IONITY rate going from 32 to 40p simply because when swapping from an ETron to an i4 the range is sufficient for me to now rarely use public chargers whereas I used to have to use public chargers every weekend.
My insurance went up £180 when changing from 6 year old 3 litre jag diesel to a new iX3. That was about two tanks worth of diesel. Home charger plus longer cable were equivalent to 11 tanks. 6 months of driving and almost exclusively home charging and that’s already been paid back. Savings on road tax (including the £450 a year luxury surcharge for 5 years) and I’m well into savings. Depreciation at the other end is a unkown though. <br /><br />
Had the winter tyres on a week and slight drop in efficiency but not done a longer journey yet. Nowhere near as bad as the drop due to last weekends -3 temps though.
I didn't find my insurance particularly expensive. But maybe I was overpaying previously. I used Hastings with a black box because they gave me the best quote and I'm not at all bothered about having my driving assessed. Quite interesting to see when it marks me down, actually - the only real black mark was when the crash avoidance did a sudden stop as I was passing someone on a narrow road. Other than that it tells me I'm a driving god, which I already knew of course, but it's nice to have it confirmed officially and reap the benefits in cheaper insurance. Though it's worrying to think that some people might drive sufficiently poorly to be flagged up for it, given how low the "acceptable" standard seems to be.
Back over 4mi/kWh yesterday when we didn't bother putting the cabin heating on for some short trips. That has a min temp of 17 which is a bit much when we've got warm clothes on, the hot seat and steering wheel are pretty comfy by themselves and don't affect range noticeably.
secondhand Audi etrons & jag ipaces are looking remarkably good value right now if you dont need the range or efficiency that a more smaller/lighter/modern/more efficient EV can give .
Polestar 2 at 0% finance also looks attractive. Anyone got feedback on what they are like?
If we go electric then we need a decent range but would prefer to avoid Tesla (I don't like the styling, partner doesn't like the person).
secondhand Audi etrons & jag ipaces are looking remarkably good value right now if you dont need the range or efficiency that a more smaller/lighter/modern/more efficient EV can give .
cant edit my post for some reason - but was going to add the audi looks especially good value given the ~£2k dealer deposit contribution and free home charger offer they current have on.
"I haven’t seen any references to the costs of insurance for EV’s…"
I was interested that, so sanity checked my Polestar 2. It was cheaper to insure than any equivalent ICE car. But it's an expensive, relatively fast new car. EV's statistically will tick those 3 boxes more than ICE.
"Polestar 2 at 0% finance also looks attractive. Anyone got feedback on what they are like?"
I've had one for 4 months now, lease deals were good on the outgoing 23 variant, mine is LRDM Pilot/Plus. It's pretty serene to drive and far too fast if you boot it. Cabin is a very nice place to be, google maps integration is great - you can run what you want on the big screen and GM will still be on the driver display. If you're getting the 24, I'd probably not bother with DM and get the LRSM. Range wise I was getting 250-260 mixed in the summer, about 210 now. Efficiency varies quite a bit with heavy right foot, hence me recommending the LRSM. Anything specific you want an opinion on?
I get my new 2024 LRSM Pilot/Plus Polestar 2 in a week’s time and given the We’d Like To Pretend range is 370-406 miles, I’m expecting a solid 300 miles whatever the weather. That 0% offer looks pretty good, although it’s PCP only with a chunky fixed 13% deposit, 10000 miles and 48 months.
I was impressed by the test drives, and I’ve always liked the styling. Originally got a Model 3 instead because the range of the previous Polestars just wasn’t good enough. Happy bonus is the charge port is on the left side, which is the right side, not the right side, which is the wrong side, so you can use Tesla Superchargers without pissing off precious Tesla drivers who think Superchargers are still only for them.
Looking forward to a car with adaptive headlights and windscreen wipers that work.
Anything specific you want an opinion on?
General driving impressions and range, which you've highlighted, thanks.
Also interested in whether the packs give anything worthwhile and how irritating the screen based heating controls are.
Finally, can you get a bike in the back easily?
Cheers
Polestars are one of the cars that can tow so they're one of the ones I am watching. I saw one for £22k the other day. I need them to be significantly under £20k for me to consider chopping both my cars in for one.
EDIT there are great deals on the i-Paces and e-Trons. The latter can tow a lot but it's only a 190 mile range on a 70kWh battery so that's low enough to be a problem.
I've had a bit of a strange one with insurance quotes. I've had a claim in the last 5 years and have no No Claims, so I'm expecting insurance to be high whatever I buy.
Polestar2 was £900
Ioniq 5 was £1300
Peugeot e2008 was £700
Tesla M3 was £3300 on the first quote (meerkats) and £900 on the 2nd attempt at a quote a few weeks later (money supermarket). I'm pretty certain I put all the same info in. There wasn't any price diff between the SR+ and LR
Oh, insurance is simply average for the Leaf. I maybe surprised next year.
I wonder if insurance companies are putting up the prices for EVs on the pretext of them being hard to repair, because they know that people will still buy EVs and hance pay the insurance because they are saving overall. I'm not normally that cynical, but insurance companies are total bastards.
the ipace and e-tron only looks good value till you realise 3 year old ones are available for ~ £20k. Used EV prices are taking an absolute hammering, £45k loss (after discount applied) in 3 years has got to sting. I wouldn't want to be owning a new-ish EV at the moment (leasing is a different matter)
Slackboy, not likely to be putting a bike in the back. but the rear hatch is pretty wide and I'd say you'd be OK wheels off.
Don't find the heating controls irritating as you don't have to dig through menus to find them and you can also use voice control.
Plus pack gives you upgraded stereo, pano roof and heat pump, plus an upgraded interior. Definitely wanted those things. I wouldn't be fussed about the pilot pack but mine doesn't have the adaptive lights and they are raved about by some.
the ipace and e-tron only looks good value till you realise 3 year old ones are available for ~ £20k.
That's what makes them good value!
leasing is a different matter
Not really, the lease companies will cotton on pretty quickly and you'll pay for the depreciation either way.
@richpenny. Thanks, very useful info. Need to go do some man maths now.
the ipace and e-tron only looks good value till you realise 3 year old ones are available for ~ £20k
That what I said, secondhand they look great value, new they look terrible value
That what I said, secondhand they look great value, new they look terrible value
That's a lot of car for £25k (I think the i-Pace looks the better of the two personally).
I'm guessing the 280 miles of the i-Pace probably looks more like 200-220 real world in all weathers at this point - allowing for brochure optimism + degradation.
Wonder what the tail off looks like from here in?
I think part of the problem with range figures is that WTLP involves a range of speeds which presumably represent the typical driving that people will do, however with an EV the discussion is slightly different because the only time most people care about range is when you are on a long trip and generally you're driving faster on long trips. If you weren't charging at home and did your commute full to empty to then recharge at a rapid charger, I think you'd see figures much closer to WTLP than if you are on a motorway for 3hrs.
That’s a lot of car for £25k (I think the i-Pace looks the better of the two personally).
Yes, ipace looks the better car to me,but it is a bit more expensive than etron when comparing similar age/mileage.
Range on the ipace is probably 190 to 240 miles depending on how fast you travel and external temps, range on the etron probably 150 to 190. So pick your compromise.
I looked at an ipace when we bought our eqc, would have preferred the ipace, but the insurance was eye watering at £4k per year vs £1k for the eqc. We recently had both cars stolen in a burglary so not surprising that our insurance is high.
I ran an ETron 55 for 9 months - from Aug 22 to May 23.
They are very nice indeed in terms of a premium cabin, extremely quiet and a simply excellent long distance cruiser*
It is capable of going very quickly and goes around corners well, but there is little "driving pleasure" to be had - pretty much any sensation of driving has been dialled out (clearly this is deliberate).
They're pretty big, so not much fun on a narrow country road, and the range is pretty poor which rather ruins it as a long distance cruiser.
If you're after something comfy and luxurious and don't exceed the real world range much between home charging sessions then it would be an excellent car. Personally the range didn't work for me and I was very happy when I changed to an BMW i4.
IMO the best place to find real world range is evdatabase they have real figures for each winter/summer and urban/motorway/general they then give an overall real average. I've found it to be the best source (certainly true of the two EVs I've had). There's also an archive, so old models are still available. Obviously you need to be certain that you've got the correct year/model/spec. and the other thing is if heat pumps were an add on, tyres changed, a bit of battery degradation, etc etc.
I never noticed any battery degradation on the two cars I had at 2 years old from new (model3 & ID3) and they were both always DC charged (rarely above 90% or from below 10%).
That's a good point from molgrips.
We easily get the full value in a normal week or two of driving round the neighbourhood but it dropped noticeably when we went to Scotland in the summer. That was also with a bike on the roof and 3 adults, and quite understandable that the range was lower, but that's still the one time a year that the max range actually matters. We barely made it home from Stirling, partly also due to the charging slow-down over 80%.
IMO the best place to find real world range is evdatabase
Not IME. They include people with heavy right feet who don't have heat pumps, buy crappy tyres and whack the heating up to 25C, along with people who draught lorries.
interesting (to me) article here on measured real-world range and charging speeds - at the moment there's a huge variety
https://www.caranddriver.com/news/g46011090/fastest-slowest-ev-charging-times-tested/
the lucid can add 100 miles of range in 7(!) minutes of charging, and the (more reasonably priced) korean lot isn't a huge amount behind. The lucid has so much range to start with that you can do ~600 miles with only a single <20 minute stop for charging
I appreciate this may have been asked but this thread is 129 pages long so I'm not reading it all.
Would I be off my rocker to buy an older Tesla Model S - specifically one which has the free supercharging (pre-2017)? I'm doing around 24k miles a year so the savings could be huge. I imagine range would have reduced from new but as long as I can see around 200-240 miles from a charge I can cope with that. I'd be looking at something like this, or preferably an 85 if I can find one in budget that hasn't done moon miles.
They include people with heavy right feet who don’t have heat pumps, buy crappy tyres and whack the heating up to 25C, along with people who draught lorries.
Id rather a representative range like that than a website that quoted just driving gods figures.
Yeah but you don't know how many of each one has submitted evidence and you don't know if people have favourable commutes or what. I find real world economy websites far worse than my real experience and I don't take the piss at all, I just drive the speed limit everywhere.
