MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
New house, so bike storage and workspace need sorted. Current metal effort (Yardmaster) is 8x10 and thinking of replacing with a 12x10 wooden effort from a local supplier. I am thinking single door, three windows and some extra height- maybe 2m at the eaves?
Anything you would get added in/considered at this stage rather than add as a modification DIY at a later point? Happy improving security etc but open to ideas before dropping £1400 on the wrong thing..
Windows should be too small to get a bike frame or wheel through. Have piano style rather than external hinges. Strengthen the hinge side of the door on the inside and ask for a mortice lock inside the door as well as external hasps.
Less/small windows. Heavier gauge wood if an option.
How many bikes?
I'd definitely design it so you can put them in vertically...
Get ground anchors but not accessible if your worried about security better having some mahusive chain to lock to that's attached to the ground anchor under the floor.. (much harder to cut something not firmly clamped to the floor that rattles about with an angle grinder)
EPDM (rubber roof) is the best thing on my shed.
Sex swing obvs...
Does a shed need windows? Does your bike or lawnmower need to see anything??? No windows equal higher security!
Having bought a new shed last year it was suggested I spend more on the roof. Felt starts to deteriorate the moment its laid down. I got what is known locally as a Steadmans roof (after Steadmans the local manufacturer). Basically it is what agricultural building are roofed and clad in. Its sturdy and consequently makes the shed more sturdy. Looks good too.
Windows are nice, but yes its another thing to secure. I do have the option to work outside if the weather allows, which reminds me- canopy over the entrance might be nice to provide a bit of additional shelter if I want to leave the door open while working.
Base wise, there is currently a paved area (two layers of slabs on top of some sleepers) which is relatively level and just under 10ft square. Easiest option would be to extend this 2ft, any reason to lift it all and start fresh? Concrete slab probably not cost effective for a wooden structure...
Heavier wood. Cheap sheds will rot. You don’t need windows. Pay more for decent roofing.
Tanalised timber would be my recommendation.
After a few break ins, the last through the roof we lined the inside of the shed, including the roof with sheets of 8" concrete reinforcing mesh. Cheap, good to hang things off and will take more time and make more noise if another break in.
Oh and put some time and money into a good base
Back door that opens onto the Cairngorms
EPDM (rubber, like inner tubes) or onduline (corrugated bitumen stuff, often used on stables) will cost a bit more but save you replacing felt down the line. Or if you do felt, get the better quality stuff.
My shed rotted down one side, a flat slab will probably pool water so chunky tannalised bearers can hold off the rot for longer.
We've just had one made , 3"×2" frame, reinforced floor and a door n half 4' total on the 12' side.
I don't like sheds with door on the end , you loose to much space in the entrance.
Yeah thinking door on the wide side, Apex roof. Happy to get a good base and yes it'd be on treated timbers on slabs if that's that's what happens.
A concrete base I just see being a further delay and expense, happy to be told otherwise but the two shed suppliers don't feel the base is overly critical.
Current company I am favouring is local and use sarking and felt for the roof. I guess with Onduline etc you still need a board underneath and the a appropriate fixings? Happy to DIY that now/later if it's straight forward. Do the joints need sealant or similar?
My bike / worksop shed is 11' x 7', it needed to fit in a certain space, has a single door on the end for the workshop end, bench and storage racking, and double doors on the long side at the bike garage end.
It's now too small. I've got a fifth bike being built that's hanging from the roof, but I'm struggling to find space and be able to get bikes in and out without playing jenga.
Go as big as possible.
Current company I am favouring is local and use sarking and felt for the roof. I guess with Onduline etc you still need a board underneath and the a appropriate fixings?
My shed came with felt roof. I just didn't fit it and put EPDM on.
Whatever else you do with the shed a leaking roof will wreck it.
Edpm roof, overhang with ventilation for the roof, thick tng walls
If you have external style hinges screwed on, replace some or all of them with coach bolts that can't be undone from outside. If you do have some small windows add frosting so you can get light without being able to see in. Poss add security bars (inside).
Do you want to make it look like you have sometging to protect?
Also tempted by the plastic base option (with gravel fill given size). Thinking might be better avoiding any pooling issues. Will probably fit gutters too..
The Maker? The big beardy guy upstairs?
Roof overhangs to minimise wetting out at the bottom.
Ply over the normal roof for something to nail felt in to without going into the shed itself (leaks galore).
Coach bolts & uprated hinges & hasp on the door.
Thicker timber panelling.
Well secured roof (screwed & strapped if you can).
Plenty of uprights to fix stuff too.
avoid OSB roof and floor its like shredded wheat useless in the damp, when shed arrives coat underside wit Creocote quite a few coats and allow to dry, as you'll never see that again.
Fit gutters,and down pipes and builders band or strapping to secure the roof down,ply line and insulate inside.
Strong door, strong hinges bolted through reinforced door frame inside.
Alarm to house, lighting, paved area outside door.