[Closed] Rusty Lintel

"crumbling" how bad, a spot of rust or two is no drama, any photos?

I'd be very surprised if a steel lintel had corroded to the point it needs replaced

It does seem pretty bad - bits flaking off rather than just rust spots. I would put a picture on but I don’t have anywhere to host it!

Oh, I thought this was about a Caribbean tv chef getting remarried...

I'd be very surprised if it was structurally unsafe.
Chances are it's just cosmetic. Is there any cracking in the brickwork above the longer lintel?

And in terms of cost, probably quite a lot!
The only time I've heard of a lintel needing replacement is when it's a wooden one that has rotted.

www.singletrackworld.com/classifieds/advert/rusty-lintel/

https://singletrackworld.com/classifieds/advert/rusty-lintel/

Some pictures here. Rusty lintel in the classifieds

Holy crap!
How the hell has that got like that?!
Lintels shouldn't really get that wet.
Fixing it is going to be not pretty and you may also need to adhere to the latest building regs which could require a larger bearing at each end than you currently have.
😬

No cracking really. Lime mortar beneath the render is powdery to touch in places but that’s a different problem.

Yikes. That's had water on it for decades to get like that. Personally I'd replace although it isn't a small job.

That is pretty bad. I was hoping I could suggest that the alkalinity of new cement mortar would prevent further corrosion, but it's going to need new steel. Supporting the brick above will be crucial to a good job. Sorry, I don't know enough to price it.

I may be wrong but I think that the windows would also have to come out which does make it really quite a job.

That has delaminated quite spectacularly.
Whoever you get to replace them , make sure they get them galvanised

Had a wooden one do something similar at the ends. Engineer did calcs because modern softwood wasn't rated high enough for the size of the gap. Also needed hardwood gallows brackets at each end to support the lintel/floor-joists/wall above. Dunno if that's the same for steel/modern regs.
Window stayed in, lots of strongboy prop heads. Repair included leadwork over the fascia above the lintel because water had been getting in behind the original. A day's work once they had a plan, calcs and materials. Twenty years ago so no idea on price

I think the rusty steel is the tip of the iceberg there must be water pouring in somewhere, probably major cracks in the masonry letting more rain in . I'd get that building shored and braced up fast

Not necessary to take the windows out, but that is quite an involved job.
You need to support the brickwork up above the lintel obviously to gain access for the new one. You may be able to get away with using strong boys and acrows, but it is possible you may have to use steel "needles" inserted through both skins of brickwork to prop the house up, a needle setup is basically 2 acrows, 1 inside and 1 outside with a piece of steel ontop like a goal post structure inserted through the wall. You'll need these approx every 800mm apart.

It's an involved and specialist job. We do this all the time when doing large knock throughs for house extensions.
You'll need a competent builder and maybe worth talking to structural engineer.

Firstly you need to work out how it has got in that state, that is very corroded

Thanks all - seems like a can of worms!

I guess bricking up the corner windows will simplify and reduce the cost a lot?

One of those why did I buy this place moments!

I would have thought your first step is to get a structural engineer in to specify the steels.
I think galvanised might be specified (it was on our recent work and added considerably to the cost 😖)

Just brick it back up and ignore it, what you can't see can't hurt you right?

Might need two bottles

I pulled out of a sale recently. 180k house.

After survey, collapsing lintle, failed rendering on the same side of the house, possible failed wall ties due to the neglect.. 20k plus work needed doing just on that wall.

I dropped my offer to 130k..they didn't sell.

It has since sold, I guess to a builder for about 140.

Might need two bottles

One to cover each eye ? 😂

@airvent - I meant fill in the small windows to remove the need for a small lintel. And hopefully simplify things. There is still the problem of how to support the wall when removing the lintel but I guess it could be cut out bit at a time as it would be supported by bricks Below (having replaced the window with bricks. The larger window still needed though!

The larger window still needed though!

And if you bricked up the side window you would need a new big one as it would no longer fit!

I was thinking the opening for the big one would stay The same size. Although It’s a bit ropey upvc that’s past its best With the mechanisms a bit knackered. So I should probably replace now anyway.

Don't start bricking things up just yet 🙂 Depending on how the sun comes around you might cut light out during several hours of the day. That basic design has been fine for decades, just needs the water ingress sorting once the structure is done
Get a structural engineer to do the calcs as things are and see how it goes from there; the wall can always be propped temporarily if that's needed.
If you want to change the design then you might consider incorporating a porch (if that's a door to the left) which would allow you a longer straight lintel that can be supported by the porch structure (as one example)

So.. the chap who owns the other flat has suggested removing the outside skin of brick entirely and replacing with a wooden frame. Presumably with rendered particle face. It’s semi detached so there would need to be a means of “finishing” the outer skin somewhere before converting to timber. Crazy?

@Timba sorry I missed your reply. Yes that’s front door but it’s set back such that there is already a concrete slab creating a porch

Is your neighbour a builder, architect or structural engineer?

Removing the outside skin of a two skin cavity wall would take all the strength out the structure , the inside skin carries the roof and needs the tied in brick outside skin to give it strength and stability
Timber frame house you could go ahead and do it

He’s a plumber I think. Architect coming to look. @redmex- crazy then!