[Closed] Rock climbing

Is this on rock or at the wall?

It's frigging scary.

Depends on the holds you are attempting, they will hurt till your fingers get used to the holds. Watch you don't tweak a finger by attempting a problem above your skill set too soon. Its all about small steps (no pun intended)

Yes. It's ace.

Yes. Muscle groups you've not used before. But if it persists you might want to start a little slower.

Where are you climbing?

Molly > I've been given the all clear to climb by my physio, fancy a trip to West View at some point?

Glad you are enjoying it. The more you go the less pumped your arms will be. If you don't go for a while you almost end up back at square one.

DO NOT push it in terms of fingery holds early on - too many pals cannot climb any more because they pushed it early on and knackered their tendons. Strengthen up slowly for a few months before beasting yourself.

It is great, belaying on a sunny evening after scaring the sh't out of yourself leading is the best feeling in the world. Well, top 3.

^^ that.

Pinchy moves can be evil. Choose your battles.

Cheers for the advice. It's indoor, DD, at [url= http://www.nusportcentral.co.uk/facility/sport-central/climbing-wall ]Northumbria Uni[/url], Cougar. We're climbing grade 5s at the moment. Yesterday's session included non-jug type holds which i why i guess my fingers are sore - not crimps, just big stuff you use your whole hand on.

I also broke my first hold traversing! The bloke on duty was well impressed. Fortunately it was very low.

Didnt realise they had a wall there, I climb at [url= http://www.climbnewcastle.com/ ]Climb Newcastle[/url]. They guys that run it are great

at Northumbria Uni, Cougar. We're climbing grade 5s at the moment.

Interesting. I've not been there.

With respect, I'd suggest considering dropping back a grade. IMHO you're better learning good skills, practices and techniques on easier grades when you're starting out, rather than killing yourself climbing at the edge of your ability. You won't learn anything that way, it's demotivating, and you risk injury. </2p>

I've never climbed anywhere else so i can't judge how good it is, but it is literally across the road from my office and i get staff discount. The wall(s) is 12m, with textures stuff with natural features, as well as flat stuff. It doesn't get used much at the moment because the students are away.

Molly > I've been given the all clear to climb by my physio, fancy a trip to West View at some point?

Sadly I'm going back down south for the remainder of the year...

scaring the sh't out of yourself leading is the best feeling in the world.

I love to climb but this ^^^ I absolutely hate. I do not like to be in genuine danger of death.

Cougar - Member
at Northumbria Uni, Cougar. We're climbing grade 5s at the moment.
Interesting. I've not been there.

With respect, I'd suggest considering dropping back a grade. IMHO you're better learning good skills, practices and techniques on easier grades when you're starting out, rather than killing yourself climbing at the edge of your ability. You won't learn anything that way, it's demotivating, and you risk injury. </2p>

That's where the instructor left us, as he said we picked it up pretty quickly and he seemed to know what he was talking about - if you're familiar with climbing people in the NE its a guy called James who used to work at the wall in Sunderland.

I climb at craggy in Guildford mainly. I've been going for a year or so and have done a few climbs in the peak district. In my (limited)experience,by the end of the session you should ache like hell but not be in real pain. (unless your shoes have been on too long) 😆

I've been a regular at Craggy (both G'ford and Sutton) for 3 years and yes, throbbing anything is gonna become normal straight after the climb. Don't you remember the feeling you had in your legs when you first started hillclimbing with intent???
Best I can suggest is get yourself a finger board ASAP (about £50 online) and exercise, but be xtra super careful not to strain your finger tendons. They take ages to recover.

Good stuff CJ. Tbh, everything will hurt a bit at first. Your hands are doing stuff that they're not used to (not sure if maybe you have office hands, with respect 🙂 ) You can enjoy climbing 5s without getting too crimpy. Two things I'd advise you at this stage are (though your instructor will probably have told you): rest on a locked straight arm and before each move, see if you can get your feet a little higher. You can push a lot more with your leg than you can pull with your arm. Enjoy, it's great fun.

I love to climb but this ^^^ I absolutely hate. I do not like to be in genuine danger of death.

Most of the time it is/should be a calculated risk though. Although I concede that even when considered, things sometimes feel more scary than they should.

With regards to trying too hard too soon, as long as it is sore skin rather than sore tendons, that's no drama. Try and open hand as much as you can as opposed to crimping (google for pictures if needs be), as open handing things is much more tendon friendly. Remember that footwork often holds the key over brute strength too...

I love climbing. Would spend pretty much a whole day there during a winter weekend. Never had any pain from my hands, other than my skin being a bit rubbed from the rope. No time to climb due to racing once a week but can't wait to get back into it.

@DD I didn't know you climbed. #manofmanytalents 🙂

deadlydarcy - Member
Good stuff CJ. Tbh, everything will hurt a bit at first. Your hands are doing stuff that they're not used to (not sure if maybe you have office hands, with respect ) You can enjoy climbing 5s without getting too crimpy. Two things I'd advise you at this stage are (though your instructor will probably have told you): rest on a locked straight arm and before each move, see if you can get your feet a little higher. You can push a lot more with your leg than you can pull with your arm. Enjoy, it's great fun.

I might be an academic, but i'm a geography so i leave the office for the field every now and then 😉

I've looked at finger boards - naturally, being a cyclist i'm used to the temptation to buy new kit - but a rented flat means there is nowhere to put one. I do have some big door frames, however...

I would add that on 5s the footholds should be plain to see - the idea is to get yourself into the habit of looking for them now and getting a feel for how easy the route becomes when you've got your feet right. As olii says, later, it'll be ALL about the feet.

EDIT: crossed posts. Was only teasing about the office hands. 😉 As for finger boards, I don't think they're necessary right now. Just get used to body and feet technique. Honestly, fingery stuff is a while off yet.

olii - Member

With regards to trying too hard too soon, as long as it is sore skin rather than sore tendons, that's no drama. Try and open hand as much as you can as opposed to crimping (google for pictures if needs be), as open handing things is much more tendon friendly. Remember that footwork often holds the key over brute strength too...

Yeah. I keep forgetting to use my legs more!

There are three of us who learnt together and we've all got different strnegths and weaknesses. I'm a relative weakling but with great reach, Stuart is strong but with poor reach, and Vanessa has footwork like a dancer.

If in the north east, get yourself out to Bowden Doors and Back Bowden.
Real rock is much better.

Sadly I'm going back down south for the remainder of the year...

Bother. Ah well. Whereabouts?

if you're familiar with climbing people in the NE

Unfortunately not. I've climbed all over the place but never made it over there.

As for finger boards, I don't think they're necessary right now. Just get used to body and feet technique. Honestly, fingery stuff is a while off yet.

+1, absolutely.

Yeah. I keep forgetting to use my legs more!

Remember, legs are for power, arms are for balance. When in doubt, feet first. If you're constantly stretching, you're going to fall off.

You can run on upper-body power for short runs (eg, bouldering) but it's not sustainable until you're really good.

In related news,

Any NW climbers want a couple of years rusty climbing partner one evening?

I've looked at finger boards - naturally, being a cyclist i'm used to the temptation to buy new kit - but a rented flat means there is nowhere to put one. I do have some big door frames, however...

There are three of us who learnt together and we've all got different strnegths and weaknesses. I'm a relative weakling but with great reach, Stuart is strong but with poor reach, and Vanessa has footwork like a dancer.

This for me is one of the beauties of climbing. Three people will approach a problem in three different ways. Reach, power, flexibility, balance all have very separate advantages.

There's no bigger complement IMHO than "you climb like a girl."

I haven't done indoor climbing for years. However, one just opened a few hundred yrds away from my house, so tempted to return. I used to go to Huddersfield and Leeds regularly and both were a great crowd and friendly.
As cougar alludes, the best climber in our gang was a girl, by a country mile, incredible to watch her on a wall or crag, inspiring, yet she was physically week and girly pathetic off the wall, it was difficult to compare her as a person/girly to her climber altar ego.

There's no bigger complement IMHO than "you climb like a girl."

Aye, I remember getting properly pwned by a French girl at one of the Glasgow Climbing Centre winter bouldering league nights. They always set one or two "novelty" problems. In this case, one going right up a pillar, with fairly juggy, horizontal holds. Rule was you had to climb it one-handed.

I did the Captain Caveman thing, took a big grip on each hold, heaved on it and jumped my way up to the next one. Missed a hold, fell-off, lost points.

French girl ballet-ed her way up using the one hand in all kinds of contorted positions + cunning footwork to stay in balance the whole time. Poetry in motion!

Also used to watch a teenage girl (whose name escapes me now) who was doing European-level competitions cruising her way up massively overhanging 7b or higher stuff. Depressing!

Fairly new to climbing (a couple of years seriously, i.e. not stopping and starting every few months!), but absolutely love it.

Spent a winter leading indoors working on basic skills etc, then straight on to trad as soon as things started drying out (then learning that 90% of what you have been practising in the gym isn't very relevant to multipitch trad!).

It's awesome how methodical and procedural many aspects of climbing a multi pitch trad route are (buliding belays, rope work, gear placements, communication etc), yet it is still completely unpredictable - every move is totally up to you, just moving on rock. The problem solving aspect is amazing, that's what really has me hooked.

I only started leading trad fairly recently. Out of everything I've ever done, leading trad is probably the thing that has scared and excited me the most (in equal measures!). It's impossible to begin to explain how different it feels being on the sharp end of even a fairly straight forward route compared to seconding it - everything changes, welcome to the biggest head game of your life.

But when you top out at the end of a long multi-pitch route and start building the final belay...it's just unreal. I'm often shaking with adrenalin for quite a while!

Anyway, I'm rambling 🙂

I only started leading trad fairly recently. Out of everything I've ever done, leading trad is probably the thing that has scared and excited me the most (in equal measures!). It's impossible to begin to explain how different it feels being on the sharp end of even a fairly straight forward route compared to seconding it - everything changes, welcome to the biggest head game of your life.

But when you top out at the end of a long multi-pitch route and start building the final belay...it's just unreal. I'm often shaking with adrenalin for quite a while!

Cracking description. Its an entirely different emotion to anything that you'll ever get from biking. I need to get back out on the rock...

Cracking description. Its an entirely different emotion to anything that you'll ever get from biking.

Yes, because you might well die.

Yes, because you might well die.

I get what you're saying Molgrips, but provided you check and double check the basics, the risk of serious injury isn't any higher than thundering down a trail with trees on either side.

Most of the "death" risk aspect of climbing is psychological, and I would imagine that a large number of the serious injuries and deaths are down to basic human error rather than gear failures or unavoidable things (loads of experienced climbers are injured/die abbing off stuff for example).

I watch someone belay off a gear loop in June. The guy leading was about 10ft above his last piece of gear when his belayer realised and shouted up "aw ****, i've not got you on belay mate!" Bad move, the leader nearly decked it immediately as he panicked in what was otherwise quite a comfortable position.

Both were at fault. Simple error that should have been spotted before he even put hand to rock. Provided you've got an attentive belayer and a couple of good bits of gear - you'll be fine 99% of the time.

yeah it is great....

[img][url= http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/7745267866_0f41d448e3.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7112/7745267866_0f41d448e3.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/66541880@N03/7745267866/ ]aguilette[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/66541880@N03/ ]passtherizla[/url], on Flickr[/img]

[img][url= http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/7745273066_34a6a1d3f6.jp g" target="_blank">http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8436/7745273066_34a6a1d3f6.jp g"/> [/img][/url]
[url= http://www.flickr.com/photos/66541880@N03/7745273066/ ]aiguilette 2[/url] by [url= http://www.flickr.com/people/66541880@N03/ ]passtherizla[/url], on Flickr[/img]

Aiguilette D'argentierre not difficult but so much fun!

Provided you've got an attentive belayer and a couple of good bits of gear - you'll be fine 99% of the time.

On good rock. I like a bit of excitement though, so ice and big mountain stuff is where it's at.

That said, I've hurt myself way more on (off) a mountain bike.

Cougar, have a look at the Karabiner Mountaineering Club website, kmc.co.uk, loads of weekday & weekend meets, nice people.

the risk of serious injury isn't any higher than thundering down a trail with trees on either side.

I don't agree.

Gear has a habit of wiggling out when I do it, leaving me one slip away from certain death often.

I don't like those odds.

The other thing that bothers me is that most belay devices are not fail safe. All it takes is for my belayer not to be paying attention and it's curtians. I don't like those odds either.

Gear has a habit of wiggling out when I do it

You're not doing it right then 😛

Gear has a habit of wiggling out when I do it, leaving me one slip away from certain death often.

I don't like those odds.

The other thing that bothers me is that most belay devices are not fail safe. All it takes is for my belayer not to be paying attention and it's curtians. I don't like those odds either.

If there is only poor gear sitting between you and a death fall then you're definitely doing something wrong (unless you happen to be climbing at the top end of the sport)

Belay devices are just a bit of metal which add friction to the system - they are pretty fail safe (not talking about Gri-Gris etc, just the regular ATC syle).

Your belayer is the most important part of the system, and yes, [i]they[/i] can fail. But if you're climbing with a belayer who isn't paying attention when you are on lead, then you need a new climbing partner. I know the old school guys tend to pour themselves a cup of tea while belaying for a leader who "never falls", but I tend to be 100% focused when belaying, even more so than when leading, since I never take a rest.

Capt - I know what you mean in the OP. I returned to climbing a couple of years ago after a long break and also went to Craggy Island that others mentioned. Had a real blast until after an hour or so, my arms realised that it had been a long time since I had climbed. I was near the top of one route (and top-roped obviously) when the muscles (?) simple stopped working!! Weird feeling and strange to fall off as a result!!

But is takes time to develop the muscles properly and I would agree with others about being careful with strains/tendinitis. Slow and steady! Have fun and stay safe.

You're not doing it right then

Clearly!

Lead climbing for me is a terrifying race against time to place gear before my arms get pumped and I fall to my death.

I love the actual climbing part, but I spend about 10% of my time climbing and 90% of my time thinking I am going to die.

Your belayer is the most important part of the system, and yes, they can fail.

That's exactly my point. Any safety system that is useless when the operator isn't 100% concentrating isn't much of a safety system in my book.

Fail-safe systems exist, but no-one wants to use them 🙄

I love the "you're not doing it right" replies when someone says he or she is afraid of lead climbing.

It's perfectly natural to be afraid when lead climbing, especially on trad rock. I'm sure there's a statistic to say that going for a drive is more dangerous but when something goes wrong when you're climbing, the consequences are often very serious.

It takes some people ages to get used to leading in the (relatively) safe environs of a climbing wall. Telling them "you're doing it wrong" is a surefire way of getting them up those walls like a mountain goat.

If there is only poor gear sitting between you and a death fall then you're definitely doing something wrong (unless you happen to be climbing at the top end of the sport)

What about poor rock / ice / rockfall? All present in the mountains whatever grade you are climbing.

Clearly!

Lead climbing for me is a terrifying race against time to place gear before my arms get pumped and I fall to my death.

I love the actual climbing part, but I spend about 10% of my time climbing and 90% of my time thinking I am going to die.

I don't want to sound like an experienced climber here, just as someone who has been through the same sort of feelings quite recently......

drop a few grades - get back down on to really easy Mods and Diffs where you could solo it no problem. You don't have to worry about getting pumped when placing gear because there will be nice comfortable positions to do so.

Then just keep doing that until you find yourself picking higher grades without even realising it. That's what I did. The mods and diffs allow me to focus on my head game, practice placing gear in less stressful environments, and allow my partner and I to really get a slick system working between us...all without too much pressure.

You're spot on about the 90/10 though - lead climbing is almost all in the head. It's the biggest head game I've ever come across.

Fail-safe systems exist, but no-one wants to use them

If you mean gri-gris, they are used, but mostly in sport where falls are more regular. I don't like them for two reasons - it's not difficult to thread them incorrectly (bad!), and I'd rather my belayer was stopping the rope, rather than expecting a device to help them. it changes the mindset of the belayer to an extent.

What about poor rock / ice / rockfall? All present in the mountains whatever grade you are climbing.

Point taken, but I'm still at the stage of picking easier routes which are described/known for having good gear. The point I was trying to make, is that if you're head isn't allowing you to lead at all, then drop back to a level where it will, which is in the easier and well protected routes. Local knowledge is awesome for that, the first time I seconded The Flying Dutchman at Polldubh, I was bricking it, despite it being (just) within my grade to lead it. Someone knew it well and told me it was a tricky and exposed lead for the grade, so i seconded it.

drop a few grades - get back down on to really easy Mods and Diffs where you could solo it no problem

I used to lead S when I could do 5c or 6a indoors. The problem is that there's not much choice in the lower grades, and what there is is often polished to hell and busy.

I'd rather do long V Diffs in the mountains but my partners weren't that interested.

If you mean gri-gris

No, there's a wild country one that is safe for trad gear and can also take a double rope (afaik). It's harder to use than an ATC though, but it's worth practising with imo.

Re gear - yes, I am doing it wrong, but for whatever reason I often think I've placed good gear and it falls out. Plus whilst there are plenty of placements at lower grades, one of the things that makes higher trad grades higher is lack of gear. Je n'aime pas.

I love a difficult climbing problem, but I don't want the problem to be overwhelmed by the safety gear cos for me it destroys the whole experience. I don't wake up in the morning and think 'what a lovely morning to struggle to make myself safe'.

The best days I've had have been either long mountain easy route like the Cyfry Arete or at places like Stanage where it's not very high and you can whack in some gear ahead of time and concentrate on the problem.

Molgrips, how about a bit of bouldering?

Bridestones is nice at the mo.

Re gear - yes, I am doing it wrong, but for whatever reason I often think I've placed good gear and it falls out. Plus whilst there are plenty of placements at lower grades, one of the things that makes higher trad grades higher is lack of gear. Je n'aime pas.

I love a difficult climbing problem, but I don't want the problem to be overwhelmed by the safety gear cos for me it destroys the whole experience. I don't wake up in the morning and think 'what a lovely morning to struggle to make myself safe'.

Yeah, it's often a choice of an easy route which is poorly protected, or a tricky route which is well protected - often a lose/lose feeling first thing in the morning! 🙂

To be honest molgrips, I often get the feeling of "I'd just rather not lead today" and second up everything, just enjoying the climbing. I reckon quite a lot of climbers do.

If that happens I tend to just drop waaaay back to a [i]really[/i] easy multi pitch route. I'm quite spoiled having big easy routes nearby (Polldubh is just perfect) that are generally quiet and in good condition.

Have you thought about taking out an instructor to work on gear placements, from both a technical perspective and for giving you confidence? Anna and I tend to do a weekend with an instructor every few months - it really helps both of us (especially to give confidence). I can't imagine not having clocked up those hours of an expert telling me my gear was good, my confidence would be no where near high enough to lead.

Bouldering, yes I've done a bit of that. Not as much fun since it's all fingery tiny holds which I don't like, but still a good way to spend a day.

Have you thought about taking out an instructor to work on gear placements, from both a technical perspective and for giving you confidence?

Hmm, perhaps. I do know when my gear isn't good, but I tend not to have much choice. What I need is regular experience and good training, and I never really got that even when was climbing. Just didn't get out often enough.

The big issue then was lack of a regular partner, and the issue now is family 🙂

Hmm, perhaps. I do know when my gear isn't good, but I tend not to have much choice. What I need is regular experience and good training, and I never really got that even when was climbing. Just didn't get out often enough.

The big issue then was lack of a regular partner, and the issue now is family

I just spotted the part in your other post about wanting to do easier big mountain routes...that's the main reason I got into climbing. Cragging is good fun, but the mountains are where I want to be. I'd happily take the satisfaction of a really long mountain Diff over just having pushed my grade on a roadside crag.

Not having a regular partner would probably destroy my confidence. I can see where you are coming from, I can't imagine having to worry about my belayer as i'm fumbling with a bit of gear. Not having to think about that allows you to really clear your head and just focus on the rock.

I know this sounds daft, but I tend to practise gear placements at ground level. Just wandering along a bit of rock, placing all my gear and trying to find the sweetspots and checking how they react to different movements/pulls. I've probably placed more gear on the ground than I have on routes! 🙂 It's great for technical practise and means that when you're on a route there is less time faffing and getting pumped/flaking out because something doesn't fit and you've tried for 5 mins to get the right wire!

In the NE Cap'n ?
YGM
Always looking for new members !
G.

Don't know if you've thought about this, but what gear are you placing? Friends and other cam devices can be easier to fit, but they can also wander out - old-fashioned nuts and hexes don't do that as long as you set them with a tug.

Definitely practice at ground level a lot until you get confident setting gear.

Going back a bit, I think this is worth picking up on.

Both were at fault.

Couldn't agree more with this. The belayer made a frankly retarded error, but the climber should've checked his second before climbing.

When I first started climbing regularly, this was hammered into me by my (much more experienced) climbing partner. I questioned the folly of *me* checking *his* gear when he'd been doing this for years and I hadn't, he told me that it didn't matter, anyone can make mistakes and it's a good habit to get into from the start.

When I take new people out now, I always impart that same information (and usually get the same reaction back that I gave Rob all those years ago).

Cougar, have a look at the Karabiner Mountaineering Club website, kmc.co.uk, loads of weekday & weekend meets, nice people.

Seemingly http://www.karabiner.org/ . Looks interesting, and they meet in The Briton's Protection so gets my vote. (-: Ta.

TBH though, when I asked I wasn't really "looking for a partner" particularly, so much as just idly wondering if anyone here fancied hitting a wall sometime.

Glad to see this thread!

I used to love climbing back about 10yrs ago, always went out with some friends to some rocks in the area, only tried the artificial rocks once. Got out of it when I had to have knee surgery but have been keen on giving it a go again. 😀

hmm, not to be too down - but anyone climb and wonder what all the fuss is about?

Don't get me wrong, I don't hate it. But y'know, rather be out on the bike.

Plus whilst there are plenty of placements at lower grades, one of the things that makes higher trad grades higher is lack of gear

I'm going to have to disagree with this. A harder trad route will not necessarily have a lack of gear. There are so many harder routes that have perfect gear and the difficulty is in the climbing rather than purely being in the head. Look at things like London Wall, Bat Out of Hell,, Right Wall etc.
This is a common misunderstanding of the British grading system, that a high adjectival grade = a dangerous route when it's not the case. This then helps propagate the myth that trad climbing is all death on a stick. Good for kudos when among euro sport climbers, but not necessarily ideal.

Be off with your London Wall! This is a thread for bumblies. Whilst my mate seemed to get plenty of wires in, I was content to belay on that occasion. Then he sauntered up White Wall. Git. I fell off Tippler later that day. I was tired alright.

But y'know, rather be out on the bike

I climbed more than biked for quite a few years at one point in my life.

A harder trad route will not necessarily have a lack of gear

No, of course, but the E1s with decent gear are far too difficult or scary for me, and the ones I could climb are the ones with little protection. I don't have the skill, the endurance or the minerals.

Cougar - I'd be up for climbing sometime. I used to go to the wall in Preston a bit though it's not amazing.

Don't get me wrong, I don't hate it. But y'know, rather be out on the bike.

I used to climb a bit but most of the time I'd rather be biking. Doing multi-pitch routes in the mountains feels like a proper adventure though, I'd like to get back into that side of it.

I've only lead up to Severe but I found trad leading the most rewarding part of climbing - nothing I've ever done is quite as intense/committing as going for a move you're not sure about high up on a trad lead.

I'm kind of a climber.

Of late, sadly, it's mostly been cranking plastique at the wall although I did manage a couple of days trad last week. Should have done my first on sight HVS (bouldered out the first couple of moves of what looked liked the crux) but lack of mileage this year put me off.... 😳

I find sport I can climb til I drop but trad mentally I'm done before I'm physically stuffed.

I'm off into the Cairngorms tomorrow for some multi pitching. I paid for a couple of days guiding a couple of years back but the last day was rained off. Tomorrow is that day. Need to brush up my technique, all that stance stuff and route finding is the hardest bits!

Use to love doing it but several injuries put paid to it 🙁

Ah, yes, I got the address wrong.
Not good, seeing as I'm on the committee 😀

Everyone welcome btw, plenty going on, excellent hut in Snowdonia, Alps trips etc.

Grum > might just take you up on that. Need to shake this cold first though.

To the OP: ignore whoever suggested getting a fingerboard. They're really designed to train existing finger strength and are likely to lead to injuries if you're just starting out. There really isn't a shortcut to finger strength so just be patient and it will come. At your stage fo the game, just keep getting mileage in and you are bound to improve and make sure you enjoy it.

If you do progress to successful outdoor leading, you'll find a feeling quite unlike anything else.

Grum > might just take you up on that. Need to shake this cold first though.

Yeah just give me a shout - I think my email is in my profile.

I warn you though that I'm as bad at climbing as you are at mountain biking. 😛

UKclimbing is a good forum

It was scorchio in the gorms today.

Did fallout corner (it was wet the first half) and savage slit (well apart from the last 10m pitch).

That's all...

I love to climb but this ^^^ I absolutely hate. I do not like to be in genuine danger of death.

sport climbing then go for the difficulty without the worry of iffy gear.

or decent highball bouldering

or deep water soloing....THAT IS ACE!

[img] [/img]

I don't get this genuine danger of death thing. Yeah, you can get seriously freaked out some days, but then again others the same thing won't even ruffle the mental feathers... You just need to get over that.

Tazzy hits the nail on the head though, go sport climbing and buy a cheat stick. On a good day I'll climb 6b but that doesn't stop me having a go on 6c+ or 7a 'just see how it feels' if I'm on a roll. I would never think, oh I'll just see how this E2/E3 feels though...

Lead my first proper route of the year last weekend, amazing terrifying and wierd but slipped right back into it.
[img] [/img]

As for gear a wise man once told me:
Your first 1000 pieces are utter s**t,
the next thousand aren't much better.

Climbed up to HVS/E1 on Grit and loved it. Pushed me mentally in ways biking can't and was always much more flexible when I climbed.
As for people looking for quiet unpolished low grade routes they are there just a little off the main crags. Get the comprehensive guides for an area.

As for belay devices and the belayers, I have no issue with a traditional device so long as I know the belayer. If I don't know them you wont see me on the pointy end. GriGri's are spawn of Satan though and should never be let near a novice.

Looking forward to getting back into it.

I warn you though that I'm as bad at climbing as you are at mountain biking.

Thanks for that (-: I used to be a reasonable climber but it's been at least a year since I've been so I'm going to be very rusty I suspect. IIRC West View isn't particularly taxing though.

if anyone fancies some brutally slopey thug stuff, I'm happy to show folks some great little bouldering spots in the peak and churnet valley. I also have the biggest boulder mat in the world so no worries about taking a screamer from a high ball problem 🙂

The Churnet's mega. Some great problems there, that are surprisingly though. High Speed Imp Act is probably the best there I reckon. Ina's Rock is a stunning little crag too.

High Speed Imp Act is probably the best there I reckon.

there's much much more tucked away!! I always like wrights traverse and there is super bold stuff in the quarry higher up the valley. 😉

Inertia Reel and the traverse in the peak were my old targets

Fair one, I haven't explored that much. Is the quarry where Soul Survivor (?) is? Always wanted to have a go at that and the Pride.

I made it halfway up a 6b tonight!