MegaSack DRAW - This year's winner is user - rgwb
We will be in touch
Hi all, wife was driving my 2010 2.2 idtec Honda crv this morning and clutch decided to plop it's pants.
Rac took 5 hrs to rescue me (we swapped cars) and in that time I rang around 5 local garages and my usual one.
In short - needs a new clutch. DMF can be checked for tolerance but being reccomended to replace at same time (make sense at 120k miles)
The dmf / clutch and labour cheapest quote from all garages Inc vat =£1800 (in South East so everything bloody expensive). This is using OEM spec parts.
Car is prob only worth 2.5 to 3k absolute tops. I have had car since 2017. No other major issues, serviced yearly, just had new tyres.
It's old.. 2010 and done 120k. I don't have the time / space / health to attack myself these days (annoyingly 10 years ago I would have fixed myself as I know my way around cars well but that's not relevant here)
Would really appreciate some thoughts if I am doing the right thing in getting it fixed or should I just cut my losses now. Perhaps this is one of those "do you feel lucky punk" situations.
Anyone have a 2010 2.2 I-dtec engine in their car at decent miles 🙂
Just interested in what you guys thinking process would be in my situation....
Thanks for taking the time to read
If the rest of it is good, 120k miles isn't that much and £1800 isn't going to buy you much. Probably £3-4k to get similar, but you won't know if the clutch is about to go on those either. So I am in the get-it-fixed camp and carry on.
It's a 15 year old car. Spend £1800 and you have no guarantee of a year trouble free motoring.
Not a bad life span.
Me I would sell it for what you can get and use the £1800 as a deposit for sonething newer.
yup, if everything else is good, get it repaired and enjoy another 120k out of it. Unless the budget for a replacement vehicle is significantly higher, you could be buying a dog/lemon.
Cheers guys so far 🙂 2 for fix and 1 for sell. I do have budget for new car but I don't really care about cars all that much to be honest - just a tool for me. Gets me where I want to go and I can fill the boot up with crap / rubbish and park where I want not worrying about little dents / scratches and all that. So long as it works and is safe then that's cool with me.
How far South East are you? North or south of London.
These guys really are the dogs-what-nots when it comes to Hondas and they don't just do performance models.
You may even find it cheaper to get it sent on a transporter to Birmingham (I'm sure they have connections for this as they do work for people all over the country).
Got to be worth a phonecall.
Our 14 plate diesel Octavia on 120k needed a new DMF and subsequently a new clutch, about 2.5 years ago. That cost £1,200.
Car is now on 146k. For us it was worth getting done as we knew the car, it was regularly serviced and we wouldn't have got a better or similar car for the £1,200 it cost us.
Interestingly I previously had an Accord Diesel with the previous gen 2.2 diesel engine (I-CDTI) and that was known for having a chocolate clutch pressure plate. It was about 10 years old at the time and also on 120k and the clutch started to slip. That was going to cost me £1000 nearly nine years ago. No DMF but the lower subframe needed dropping as part of the work, hence the cost. At that time I got a company car allowance and needed a newer car due to rules.
Checking the MOT history that car is now on 210k and the MOT is valid until Feb 2026. Lots of rust though https://www.check-mot.service.gov.uk/results?registration=BN06+VFW&checkRecalls=true . So if you don't have any rust issues and the car is otherwise sound I'd say go for the clutch.
I'd bin it and buy an automatic so that it's driveable by someone who lacks sufficient mechanical sympathy to operate a clutch without boiling it.
In ~35 years of driving I've had one clutch failure, and it was my first ever car which had been laid up for several years prior due to the death of its previous owner.
Better the devil you know.
Have a look at Mr Clutch if you havent already, Ive used them for 2 cars over the last decade and they were always loads cheaper than other garages. Good service and warranty too.
Cheers all
Cheers guys
I will ignore cougar as his / her reply is not constructive to this conversation. 120k miles out of a clutch seems to be pretty good.
Muffun man - no linky? I am rg12 near reading
Awaiting quote from Mr clutch!
Hmmm - should have been a Facebook link - here's a screenshot!...
In ~35 years of driving I've had one clutch failure, and it was my first ever car which had been laid up for several years prior due to the death of its previous owner.
In 30 yrs of driving I've had zero clutch failures - I must be much better driver than you.
Interesting the only time I've driven a car where I've noticed the clutch was slipping was a Honda Civic. I was specifically looking for it on a test drive as had read clutches in that model were a weak point.
On topic; I'm in the 'better the devil you know camp' if all else is good with the car.
Have a similar dilema myself today. 65 plate XTrail failed its MOT on a section of exhaust, a tyre, lower ball joint and a sticky calipar.
Exhaust section is £530 + fitting so going to be nearly £1k to fix and there's a whole host of advisoris for other front/rear suspension part.
Given it was Cat N'd a few months back I'm just going to spares/repair it on Ebay and move on.
If you'd had a good run and not spent on it, they'll be other stuff around the corner at that age/mileage. Cut your losses, treat yourself to something newer.
Dooosuk - yeah this is my devil on shoulder. Car has served me well so far, nothing really spent on anything apart from tyres and brake pads. It's a great car and taken me all over Europe. I guess now I am paying the price for 8 years of low cost motoring!
In all honesty I don't actually think my question can be answered as far too many variables / uncertainty
Sorry to hear this OP.
Engine wise they are pretty bullet proof. Our 07 Civic with the same engine made it to 198k before a minor shunt saw it written off 😥
That car was on its original clutch! but whilst 15 years old at the time of the accident and as abobe just shy of 200k we would've probably replaced it had it have gone. It was a great car.
I'm in the camp of replace the clutch.
Repair cost seems tantalisingly close to the likely value of the vehicle.
Would YOU buy that car for £1,8k? If so, get it fixed.
If you fancy a change, sell it spares/repair.
Can you buy the same cat, but with the clutch already done for £2500? Do that. If not, I would harrumph a bit, fix it and drive on.
other things to consider, with it being a diesel are clean air zones and the like. I’m hanging on to our S-Max as long as sensible because it has been so useful and reliable.
Back in 2022 we bought a 107k 2011 BMW X1 as it looked to be in really good condition. Clutch went pop three months later in France, which was fun. No choice but to get it fixed and cost a fortune but after that outside of service cost it was very cheap to run and passed every MOT. Sold it to a pal a few months back and it's trucking on.
Saying that I'd probably cut my losses and buy something newer although it sounds like fixing it is the best option for you, if that makes sense?
Cheers everyone - food for thought. I am not a **** so will not sell any issues
If I'm not sure in these situations I cast the "better the devil you know" deciding vote - assuming the car has been serviced properly along the way.
My two penneth. Was in a similar situation 4 years ago, 9 year old VW Touran, 9 years old, 140k, had it from new and had been fairly reliable. Major failure, completely stopped, exhaust system and turbo completely sorted up. We sold it for 250 quid scrap. Person that bought got it running, cost a couple grand in parts. Would have cost us what it was worth to repair. Something else went wrong later and it's still going now.
For me if you have money for a newer replacement I'd go that route. Cars are a tool for me as well, not a hobby so I want them to work when I need them.
I'd say if you know the rest of the car, it's probably worth fixing. Especially if you can get it done cheaper.
But for balance, we just got rid of a Honda FRV of a similar age that was really starting to suffer from rust. Once it hits that point, for me it's time to bail.
£1800 does seem on the steep side for a clutch and DMF change
The clutch slave cylinder went on my 2011 VW T5 in Feb, decided to fit a new clutch, DMF and slave cylinder which was £1050 fitted, the subframe had to dropped to do the work, original clutch had done 169'000 miles
This was in the south east (Hampshire)
If it truly is going to cost £1800 and the car is worth 2-3k then id look to scrap the car or advertise it for 1k stating it needs a clutch and use the £1800 for a deposit on something newer
Depends. Do you want a new car? DMF was rattling on one of my old cars and then it failed the MOT needing new brake lines. £1500 ish would’ve seen it good again for a few more years but I fancied a change so it was the perfect excuse 😃
I’ve also spent out on big repairs on vehicles that I’ve liked and wanted to keep. If you like it and everything else seems good then I’d repair it.
Cheers all... Yeah the dmf for the I-dtec is stupid money (I have checked luk pricing from usual Internet suppliers) and with clutch / gb oil it's coming close to £1k just for parts. Can find clones on ebay for about half price of that but never really like using crappy aftermarket parts (and garages I spoke to won't fit them understandably)
Got 5 quotes now and all over £1800 (highest being £2400) so don't think I am having my pants pulled down (well I am but that seems to be the going price!). Labour is around 7-9 hrs (depending on garage)
No sign of rust and rest of car solid as a rock so I think I will get it done. Looked on auto trader and 2010 crvs around same milage about £2.5k for average one. I will prob keep it for a couple years and have a proper good look at something a bit newer when I am not so rushed (another deciding factor in decision)
Thanks all for the input (apart from cougar ha ha)