[Closed] I think my axe might be too sharp...

.

Damn, I was hoping for pics of a severed foot 🙁

It'll slice paper

It should

It'll slice paper

Yeah but can you shave with it?

What did you use to blacken it? I'm restoring two old axes at the minute and they are disgustingly shiny. Was considering oil/quenching but it seems like a dirty big fuss.

What did you use to blacken it?

Can never be too sharp.

You'll not cut the paper like that. Use the sharp bit.

Cardboard harp for a junior school project.

It was nearly as tall as my daughter at the time, a full octave of elastic strings that were properly tuned and a large hollow box base to give it a bit of volume.

Ever other child made a shaker or 'guitar' made from elastic bands stretched over a shoe box. Harp was too large to display with the other pupils efforts. 😳 😆

What are your tales of going a bit far with something?

I met a woman in a shop. We’ve been married 14 years this June 🙂

@stevied , what kind of place do you work at? Or what's in your blackening tank?

What are your tales of going a bit far with something

Using an axe to break up an old sofa of mine, swinging it a bit too hard so that it went right through it and into my shin.

what kind of place do you work at?

Jimjam, don't get it too hot and lose the temper. I've read you can oil blue safely using the oven but haven't tried it. I'm considering a soak in tea for a hatchet I'm restoring, saw buckin' Billy on you tube try it and the finish looked nice.

For STW, I'm disappointed you didn't forge it yourself... which reminds me, I really ought to sharpen mine properly...

It should

Not for making kindling it shouldn't!

Mine's blunt as boots, works fine!

neilnevill - Member

Jimjam, don't get it too hot and lose the temper. I've read you can oil blue safely using the oven but haven't tried it. I'm considering a soak in tea for a hatchet I'm restoring, saw buckin' Billy on you tube try it and the finish looked nice.

Yeah Neil, that's another reason I don't want to use that method (although it does look like fun). I saw Buckin' Billy doing the tea method too so I'll probably give that a go, but I have a pair of smedbergs handles on the way so I better get on with it. It takes a few weeks doesn't it?

Yeah I think so, think Billy had his brew on for a week.

I've read you are ok up to somewhere over 400F and that is hot enough to oil season cast iron so should do for the axe. Wipe of oil then oven for 30 mins at 180-200, repeat.

Whatcha doing? I got sent an unmarked but likely Scandinavian 700g hatchet/small axe head. Think I'll practice a few things on a cheapo eBay hardwood handle (blowtorch to blacken the grain, more hanging practice, may make an overstrike guard)

At which point does "touching" become inappropriate?

For the blacking you can use rust converter, active ingredient is usually Tannic acid, so has an etching effect.

neilnevill - Member

Whatcha doing? I got sent an unmarked but likely Scandinavian 700g hatchet/small axe head. Think I'll practice a few things on a cheapo eBay hardwood handle (blowtorch to blacken the grain, more hanging practice, may make an overstrike guard)

I'm refurbishing these....

[img] [/img]

[img] [/img]

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Both belonged to my Grandfathers. I can't discern a name on the big felling axe, it appears to be about 4 1/2lbs. I intend to put a short(ish) handle on it and use it for punding in wedges when I'm felling and just as a general purpose work axe. Better than it gathering dust. I'm reprofiling the edge with a file. Slow work. It was in terrible shape to start with.

The little hatchet was given to me by the other grandfather and he taught me how to split kindling with it when I was about 4. Times have changed. Anyway I assumed it was lost , but found it in my sisters garage last year in a very sorry state so I bought her a new hatchet and took that one. They were both in horrible shape, I wish I'd taken photos of them before I started working on them.

I got sent an unmarked but likely Scandinavian 700g hatchet/small axe head. Think I'll practice a few things on a cheapo eBay hardwood handle (blowtorch to blacken the grain, more hanging practice, may make an overstrike guard)

Long time since I've hung an axe so I'll probably balls these up too. I'm considering making an overstrike collar for my Husqvarna splitting axe but tbh electical tape and mastick work fine, although it looks ugly.

I was thinking abs waste pipe might make a good guard. It's tough, impact resistant, softens with heat so should be shapeable and it's easy to cut and file. Although a tin guard looks far nicer.

I like that felling axe particular, looks big.

I thought the active ingredient in most rust removers was phosphoric acid, the iron phosphate is the black stuff left behind.

You can blacken steel using hot apple vinegar, I treated a carbon steel Opinel knife blade, to give it a patination before using it. Worked quite well.

If you are on Instagram, you might enjoy this guy's feed. He restores classic axes and does a bit of trail maintenance with them in New Hampshire.

https://www.instagram.com/cooperhill

neilnevill - Member

I was thinking abs waste pipe might make a good guard. It's tough, impact resistant, softens with heat so should be shapeable and it's easy to cut and file. Although a tin guard looks far nicer.

What kind of wall thickness would it have and how would you secure it from rattling around? Let us know what you decide and post pics or start a thread about it either way.

I like that felling axe particular, looks big.

Yeah it's huge. I have a hankering for a Gransfors American felling axe (even more for a Hults Bruk Arvika) but then I probably wouldn't want to bang wedges with it, and that axe head would still be sitting there. I'll probably still want those other axes when I'm done anyway.

mcmoonter - Member

If you are on Instagram, you might enjoy this guy's feed. He restores classic axes and does a bit of trail maintenance with them in New Hampshire.

https://www.instagram.com/cooperhill

Will check him out, thanks.

My thought was 32mm solvent weld waste pipe, which is abs, it's a couple of mm thick. For large handles you may be super lucky and after warming the pipe just slide it over the haft, getting it to deform and fit.... But that would be too good. Assuming the pipe is too large, slit it, warm and deform, then clamp and glue in place, or maybe a couple of small screws, or drill a set of holes either side of the split and lace it up.

Count, have you any more info on the cider vinegar method please?

My axe head is only lightly/surface rusted but I'd like to remove that and patina it and do it without removing the remnants of blue paint that remain (and suggest it's Scandinavian origin)

I think [i]my[/i] axe is too shark...
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Am I doing it right? 😀

neilnevill - Member

My thought was 32mm solvent weld waste pipe, which is abs, it's a couple of mm thick. For large handles you may be super lucky and after warming the pipe just slide it over the haft, getting it to deform and fit....

Interesting. Definitely sounds like it would be worth a try.

Brick acid takes rust off nicely. Then grease it.

Artisan axe restoration tips?
We have reached Peak Singletrack.
Where do we go from here?

stwhannah - Member

Artisan axe restoration tips?
We have reached Peak Singletrack.
Where do we go from here?

I think peak STW is probably buying a giant artisan restored axe from the chap in Mcmoonter's link then keeping it in your £200 store bought log shed beside your kiln dried firewood, perhaps stroking the axe occasionally of an evening, when you go out to get wood for the stove.

After stroking and oiling the shaft you put the axe back down again, pick up your hand made wine glass and twirl then ends of your well oiled moustache and consider whether an A6 Avant or a T5 should be your next vehicle.

Just sayin.

twirl then ends of your well oiled moustache

You all have moustaches? Dammit, that’s all my fantasy scenarios ruined.

You all have moustaches? Dammit, that’s all my fantasy scenarios ruined

Oh hells yes!

My handles arrived today. Unfortunately one of them was the wrong model, I ordered a 29" curved handle and a 13" curved but the 29" handle which arrived was straight. Happily I contacted Woodsmith Experience and they told me to keep the straight handle and are sending me the one I had initially ordered FOC. Great service and very happy with that as it'll be a handy spare.

Also I offered the handle up to the little hatchet and it feels amazing. It honestly might be my favorite tool when finished. So the handle is soaking in tea now, can't wait to get it it finished and hung. The bigger felling axe head still needs work to get it looking good but I'm excited to get it finished too.

I've got some new handles to fit so a couple of non-fancy heads, after I broke the original ones.

I have the steel wedges etc.

Any tips on how to do it?

Presumably shave down the head end so it just squeezes in to the head. Do I pre split the end? Do I soak it in fair trade yak milk?

Mary Hinge - Member

I've got some new handles to fit so a couple of non-fancy heads, after I broke the original ones.

I have the steel wedges etc.

Any tips on how to do it?

Presumably shave down the head end so it just squeezes in to the head. Do I pre split the end? Do I soak it in fair trade yak milk?

Yes you'll need to cut a kerf in the handle if it doesn't have one already, and you'll need a wooden wedge in addition to a steel pin or wedge. You'll probably want a wooden mallet or deadblow hammer, a chisel or decent knife, lots of sand paper and a vice would handy.

Beyond that youtube tutorials are probably the best way to go as it's a fairly repetitive rinse, repeat process and I certainly don't feel qualified to speak on it. When you are done you will want to oil the handle in some way, linseed oil is the consensus best oil to use.

Count, have you any more info on the cider vinegar method please?

Some of you may like to see this

I've watched that at least once before and almost got sucked into watching the whole thing again. Something oddly therapuetic about watching people make axes.

Jimjam, I presume you meant your head is in the tea.... Not the handle?

When fitting handles take your time, keep filing, fitting, and filing some more. You want as much wood in contact, and as tight as possible before you drive the wedge. I've only done one so far but seemed to get it pretty tight without taking an age. I glued my wood wedge but lots don't, that way if the handle shrinks and loosens the wedge can be driven further. If you use a stepped steel wedge as well then the glue isn't necessary.

Blo, lots of it, will finish the handle nicely.

neilnevill - Member

Jimjam, I presume you meant your head is in the tea.... Not the handle?

Aye. I was so excited to get the handles I was obviously confused. The bowl with the head and the tea has turned totally black now. I don't want to cut the process short but I can't wait - the wee handle feels beautiful.

Blo, lots of it, will finish the handle nicely.

I've been thinking about this a lot recently. A few years ago I bought boiled linseed oil from Homebase or B&Q. It smelled lovely, dried in quickly and left my Gransfors Bruks handles looking great. Recently I had been treating my handles with raw linseed oil and wanted to buy some more boiled stuff, just for that darker colour but the stuff I got from screwfix smells like bleach and doesn't really seem to work well on the handles.

After a little research and some youtubing I am led to believe that modern boiled linseed oil is just linseed oil with chemical drying agents added and can be quite toxic. Now, it wasn't that many years ago that I bough my last batch of BLO but it smelled exactly like raw linseed oil and did a great job. I'd certainly welcome any leads as to where I can buy nice, non chemical BLO in the UK or Ireland otherwise I think I'll be sticking to raw linseed oil or flax oil from now on as it genuinely seems like a nice oil to use and from what I can discern is non toxic.

Bump. In case anyone is interested, my axe head blackening in tea hasn't gone great. The untouched parts of the head that had surface rust are completely jet black but the rest of the head (which I had cleaned up) has only darkened slightly. It's not bad looking, it's a nice looking little head anyway, but I would prefer it was properly black so I might try a different method.

I'm considering starting a general axe modifying/restoration thread as I have three lined up, this thread might do, or is the title and the op too vague?.

girl showed me this at work

I believe you are right about modern blo. Raw lo will polimerise, it just takes a little longer. Longer can be good, it means more time for the liquid oil to penetrate deeply.

I have a bottle of old blo, smells great.

Oh dear re the tea. Try the warm vinegar etch?

I was thinking Oak is full of tannins and hence iron stains it....a load of Oak saw chips in a stew of tea and vinegar.... That won't smell great.

http://www.wood-finishes-direct.com//search-site?q=linseed&search_submit=

Try these guys. Normally give really good advice and there's always someone in the office that seem to have an answer for *any question.

(*That is related to wood finishes)

Oh dear re the tea. Try the warm vinegar etch?

I was thinking Oak is full of tannins and hence iron stains it….a load of Oak saw chips in a stew of tea and vinegar…. That won’t smell great.

I'll post pics after a while. I might give it once more go in some fresh tea, after that I think I'll just order some gun blue, seems like least messy way to go about it.

It doesn't look too bad today. Quite a bit darker than yesterday, I guess removing it and cleaning it aided the process. I offered it up to the handle and it feels really good. I'll be jumping it on quite a bit more than this but thought I'd share

I cleaned up the edge a bit to see how it would contrast....hard to catch the light to show it though.

This is what I'm aiming for though, bit of a way to go yet.

That looks nice. I believe you are right, i think with any etching process you wipe off the black muck and keep going for a deeper etch.

I knocked the remaining stub of handle out my hatchet head. It had an odd fit (which I'm told suggests Scandinavian origin). The haft was glued or resined on! The eye is weirdly shaped, tapering and then flaring again as it goes through the head and the haft had 2-3mm of resin around it filling the flare, and no wedged Kerf. So I'll be filing the constriction in the eye away and fitting a haft as normal. Made a start and the steel is fairly hard, but it does cut with the round file so I should manage it in 20-30 mins.

neilnevill

That looks nice. I believe you are right, i think with any etching process you wipe off the black muck and keep going for a deeper etch.

Aye, seems to be going well today, although it's kind of random as to which parts seem to darken.

I knocked the remaining stub of handle out my hatchet head. It had an odd fit (which I’m told suggests Scandinavian origin). The haft was glued or resined on! The eye is weirdly shaped, tapering and then flaring again as it goes through the head and the haft had 2-3mm of resin around it filling the flare, and no wedged Kerf. So I’ll be filing the constriction in the eye away and fitting a haft as normal. Made a start and the steel is fairly hard, but it does cut with the round file so I should manage it in 20-30 mins.

Sounds weird, do you mean like a tomahawk fit? Post some pics up if you can.

I don't know what a tomahawk fit is.

This is a small axe/large hatchet, 700g according to the marking although I haven't weighed it, it's about the right size for that weight though. It had the epoxy resin filling the top of the eye over the end of the haft as many cheaper axes do, to seal the grain on the haft I assumed. I knocked the cut off haft out and found the epoxy was maybe 3mm thick in places around the haft as well. Cleaned it off and went to retrieve what I thought was a metal wedge to find it was just a bodged in nail and to find there was no Kerf and wooden wedge, no wedge at all! Confusing. Inspected the eye too see/ feel it constricts then widens again, quite a bit. I put a rule against the back of the eye, the constriction pushed it some 3 mm away from the back of the eye by the top. Clearly there is no way of getting a tight fit and wedging a haft on, the epoxy was to fill the gap left as the eye expanded again and secure the haft. Weird I know but as I say, I was given this head for free so I'm not fussed.
it was posted from Canada where it was bought at a garage sale by a guy that has a hobby restoring axes, and out there Scandinavian heads are very common, he's regularly picking up SAW or HB heads for $5-10. This head is unmarked (other than '700') but has clearly original blue paint and he reckons the epoxy is another sure sign it's Scandinavian. In good condition too, poll is unmarked bar one nick and cutting edge has minimal wear.
With a bit of time and care I should be able to file the eye to straight, then wedge it normally. We shall see.

Not sure if this image will post... its the remains of the handle (head just in frame o the left). as you can see it tapers rather, and the epoxy is thick!

[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/vSrkYVu2EWI-GasDikx7jU8PyG7iaIRpDo5_138Ut8sKy3IVXDClbFoXbz1tDrCsJ6dE3-HTtL37naDSe7PCez0UJyzUyfDA90GmrHEctF7OheOCuNMy0lEWk4kbcFme6pFgOkuKokLi7m3S0Mi_0-eobC3hnhzCkEZs88_kE0biYqqfEI9TDOVhFyIrr5VYC1XN6Xe3hxa2CNWliK1aC4PxLIBdNCEJmDpkFKl92l-LmeeobcghrQy9JVZSgf1jaqWdY2cNTouca7AbdESk_XX5BV2SbLbzuzt02lsOYSxgRjHW29K8gCW_YXDpL7nSI2Iv-8llB8DKk-sZGA9QU7IdgPFYZnzDKQWORdjOd5ygSXtgwqvSKIlf1lXWGGQMTgBAh5vQPdNQGs8QfP29OFZF_BBL1x_UYabnrXZoUj9gdFmTyBb4xbTaom1iVxGP2nicbjPCamoN-3aloZi_W3mUdsS4mx2ZYQm6AwExpWg98nT9Rn-3T5ITlMcpwX25lGMMgJtkWt4DpvoU3cgbQkJsk0B1gi_lmdxMHuRQ9TRa6tNTmBaK5zzffgymKLYnxh-xviRgWtyHqFM7sa47ZRsRt_4OQJqI7Q_2Fi0=w1320-h990-no [/img]

Ohh it worked, good.

[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/rdo-KqqH8c4r5keKEnqJlyoR6jIpzoieQCVdgojPdEzZQ6pjd11FXVdfO2_rq5njY6tyE_LOB5LJG302FMufvM_dzSHxfj5XDH8UGLnxKjW6W0-EWv5SMxLQx9MXJuvfPOK7PcwZhSHKJzp8u6Nsv9Gh46-NrIqGDl3a5jh9Y8AWBI8PUJXNkijK1Btu7kc1gLMRFqSnrXC4RwlGOBOLnZsMDzVokDX0MHLg5ginTgUN43b0Rtzlj_n0vo5RHLK9M74yG-TNFgrqlEyLh7SeNFY6EuITLY9c74WGBHJVr-foTwzQMpUxpLw-pX3RmbRO2CZZwzQrOoHT_F8v2C8RXn3bhz5-OiAuPYFLsE52PPyOQeN8Y0THWzxDO_FAtCvuGr_rbKqX-HfoHn_HaakCso7gMEhcR3pUpr_lFWibc8Xiez-fBsO2-wh-juwtmjLqqZx1faKb_dyKwi4y_CdGnzMWnDXCODaNeOureq2VTrKX68q6kqaRAfU2GZXOflbUPjw1uibPaqProR0mF_mnQOtVl2RF2iCibGAb1ME6X91BYjyZyq_gssALQPzfeY1p1anm6vA4Oeclz84GRK62ZbDgYfVyW1EEZamcrqU=w1320-h990-no [/img]

that's the head and the top of the haft, what i thought were mertal wedges were just nails, a bodged attempt to get a loosening head tight i guess.

a couple of picks of my only other rehanging work. My bison pickaroon

[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/nd5dKFvKzPZMgoVoDRFFVCHJr4C0YkSKSsxSm05FGSsiC46eK6kPJOTD7d7c_8IbeifybIE_I6R__YqxjrzSxzIiAeid4kQ_sNDlyo4hWshkf4HARO-GI7CBO0mIoTulw4pKGmRHAAPY5i1h6xtJ20OZx3SThQlOa7hFGftHz7NOQG1X9lxxJB0c_Dd6aSzqfsvUJZJPrbwNk72BrDyhWaFtF_Y-Z5Dum3KmylO5Pk1oWhDOzO-nWqbcwtWhYb2WlHn0G0cmBacYnWB81ita8uPImNF6u0B31h2pIAT4WlbK4e65NSCE2FRwnHwP2LtCe7zniDiAP_llsQqTS2gsltA4vPFwv29Vi_Ch5auyDHnmmTBZmFCfwb_nz4-FeA_5tOMojG2y2DmPbh-3X-q0bQiE5o-4egCNqPQwPzQMOi0r34Rti8B3hCQEIoBNfSuuSLriIcRLMEl1uOKDmdDEnJIcUCLsjDaCtfKvX3__zcEfpgcJqILnBYZNxelc_JN3CbcwIa3We9rBjGzIbq2C6FpeIdwnJf5Aj8iabym1HDc9k04M-CZ2Zd7S0Gxxsc1rDt0KdDUKvc-dVCUQiVSW_euQBrFV54C2KrNJy8l0EbWZe8Nr1WtmTo-_6LHs5NGNzbm_79HN-BGmDn1kFaNe1r9RU8svVGig=w743-h990-no [/img]

[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/DUH9LfK3ggvowtYwHbrh_5pOcfCdQPu_GoKhvjvVgT-3yk6qOueyw-gmrqCFRXbNF863KejykpqKpBvWDc146_XmNhBc9hAS3tq_94d4t0fsZ0eD1tHHMqxzA3ft0DdfviOr8GnIHtwR3cWc8Qg-JTWQLIaKN09i-JZoB1uph6axZYuWQmAkhT08eq3Pa0lwd73GP7VtMXuSf67zXMAjtT5g7lQSsSybSFpSsXss3_445yelYb87O8ObRWWgy6ohipZgMNGlVrI4uz58pj0DwfbOF-8Pm2TPxXPLx75U0qaXHz2EN0bBchEU0BtPR4DSUSHYPTR5nj-CzAdc30xKoPBeLEg-PSPAmuOCrTBdbwU5ZTz3_4tLTcP5vgmlaXqFaTPkQ0fLFm5WL5vfVgAhS8Qnen3UPgkY88HZGEYeiEf8v5LSaS2fbzymZrEHrLTKNLYHd6cxEhRbuVnJESkbrsgnDMCobu26WJkAxbCSooP5AuFC9xu7SgcEQ4p6rOokB7pbsAfO_M7XrvU3ScRCvezIUJr8DWPurZVpDzv1UPYk-u3Qw9usE_bsDvSorqrG26ffnp7Co4toHv0QQAg3Y372ULoZ2MkO6ba0T4gcsFmYWjD4BT9uhnArqfgHRzETKKJSq-ubGzrLi_Ewul3-TdRYSLnKOyB2=w1320-h990-no [/img]

awful grain orientation, but a fair tight fit.

I keep meaning to buy a pickaroon, do you find it a big advantage if you're splitting? (especially if you have a sharp axe in your hand to lift up smallish logs).  I can't see your other pics Neil, by tomahawk fit I meant like a pickaxe...if you get me. I think I'll give up on the tea patina. I've seen videos on youtube of people basically burning boiled linseed oil on to steel to give a black finish so I think that'll be may next effort. If it gets rid of some of this shitty toxic blo all the better.

I could see how the tea would work for either a new high carbon knife or axe head that was new or completely covered in rust but I've been working at both of mine and some parts take the patina and others just won't. More pics to follow.

I am sure someone else must have pointed this out but cutting geometry at some point becomes a compromise between sharpness and strength / longevity, so it is possible for something to be too sharp for its intended use.

TheBrick

I am sure someone else must have pointed this out but cutting geometry at some point becomes a compromise between sharpness and strength / longevity, so it is possible for something to be too sharp for its intended use.

Depends doesn't it. As it happens I put a shaving sharp edge on my Scandinavian forest axe last night (rock and roll indeed).  Now, while it's not hard to do that it's also pretty pointless, once I de-limb a tree it won't shave anymore but it will still cut paper and stay that sharp for a long long time. So whatever the edge profile is on my GB axe, it's not compromising the edge to go a bit further and make it shaving sharp.

I like to do that purely as an excercise once every six months or so, more to take down the material on the cheeks and make sure the overall profile of the axe gets worked and reduced and not just the cutting edge.

Oh ffs', sharing from Google photos is so random....I put all photos in the same shared album, posted them here in the same way.... But 2 can't be seen except by me when logged into Google. It's always the same. I'll have another go later.

Ah a 'slide the haft in from the top' fit. It's not that, but they might work. There is a Spanish axe that hafts that way. It results in a narrow haft, probably too narrow with a small axe/hatchet.

As for the pickaroon, love it. I do most splitting with the X27 which at 5.7lb is heavy to use to pick rounds and is to wedged to stick anyway, the pickaroon is handy for shifting rounds about. I also have a dinky one, just a mortar pick I sharpened the point on, which I find great for picking splits.

Ah a ‘slide the haft in from the top’ fit. It’s not that, but they might work. There is a Spanish axe that hafts that way. It results in a narrow haft, probably too narrow with a small axe/hatchet.

right....
[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SNlo2AgREKMg70aMnE4YZ63dTknrHVkys9ZzOVPoE99tuouLqFuEjB4snIVjcRssvJ3AzPoJ_uQa5YsLAIPZsYwoBt0lgwDiaoEg200y9rYOTUummSvxWZVUePnMwBNdywyXYqLimoyZrd9NSWD_G7itutgmNgS8n584Q0nSALG8tT70KvbNQB9u4G8iJ_1c8lqS0CeCtZIUq_0iGgpeurWt4BT_CRk0JKDS98u1_cdGPT1vh7gjBUbBiJ8NMTJu6iulFarZ6s6mYKmcXtXnePd9DIsoMVUKamN60fuEs-hRbdYu6kSXEJ7T1CWKjveduRHFMRT8BzDLvsX4AeKdqQ0vqPCMoLLEQX-ocqj7YEpKTx4HyNU3MOOZx2DGxRTz3S0hnEmNCLAzz99FHMgDrHJw6zQezC1ANjgI8A7x0C3OHbRcGSAL06GmSqsQi3tUNVHm96FrHW4eH4R0F3G3Lnf0kKiZkc39xCYp73rbbi2Qr9OMaWQkpjOIXiUMueXx0a4VdpluED5p4fT7D6GRmbDXGkUUizvCsdhNsCA1wjPB5wduIR6oGNRgHgFbnhcQg295A2EeyDxRAFk8z30ISuLFVmOMvKiupkDsmPOuF-PWsHb6wysnbU-j9koo2Ih0JvwSp8WSKw2jNnVUkT3ipGWCqPipiGX_=w1320-h990-no [/img]
and
[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f0dCJZL1BpYM6DxqQD9KAR28hGF1BduPSy1VDj6PACXpIAUV2uROGXdTlOUodhScctQ250U5NaNK4ZMa06wPSaQZwlCHtTYiHN7vzSbI4gDrGIrUko4ovd-5rBPbXQcH3jT_chxCna0RnasGbi6NI2eU3EOc3P2uW9akhPfXUOFwy-tPzpI1spPb35O7uq-hM3e-tHczM_9JIdqMxK3Y9clpGcz_M6CIPPAMia_0KXX0z5kXzhp4zK3eTvNT-OUC0QXpiUP71PoaUl5RWJioKg0TgbanISpezXDzQBCbBBHgX9LtZIZjigobfxxz45Wop8m2FbEdAthPyJH-lOF7a6xnbMgFWLwiQHNyFs0buBAm1riKOA84sz_aBwLn31e3yzGbJqU66iUUx7IdfK5efPVZW2Ezxx1PKw8iQxteBoM_7dIabVXhCuspOWkzxp9t9vYNje3q6UTJogL3Hw6nfglGhLsZZ4rghLzqp0IbMEOUdJHnjac9fY9h0m2bTi8PuPJwaYjN0n3Qnr5J12hzjl8VVVDcyq7AkgJKMVUHT8Nuxg13sIfpBgWxeZqt09RI4iSJ_JeUQIe8gSFcA7xqdHyqLZjlmvQV855z4ljaRun9YJZVEbPS6TGMUlZ8wU8FS_ThTYtXyDxDeTjrHnPXEsixk7CofpHb=w1320-h990-no [/img]

now to go see if i can see that on another device

😀

Nasty. Hopefully you can learn from my metalurgical misadventures when it comes to treating your axe head. I've given up on the tea and have been experimenting with boiled linseed oil and a blow torch. Strange results to say the least.

"Depends doesn’t it...."

Exactly, it is possible for  it to be too sharp for intended use.

Yes it's odd isn't it! Since it was free I don't mind if it doesn't work out but I think there's a good chance I can file the restriction from the eye and make it fairly straight. Then I can wedge it normally.

Shame the tea didn't work out. I might just wire brush mine and oil it then.... If the remaining blue paint comes off or is no disaster. But first I'll sort the eye out.

Shame the tea didn’t work out. I might just wire brush mine and oil it then…. If the remaining blue paint comes off or is no disaster. But first I’ll sort the eye out.

I think it would work perfectly (apart from the bits of paint) for you since yours looks untouched. The tea / tannin seems to stick to rust very well and just won't seem to stick to other parts.

Here's what the hatchet head looked like after roughly a week

And here's the felling axe.

The hatchet looks better in the photo than it does in the metal as it's quite light across the middle of the head and the axe, as you can see didn't take very well at all. It was only a few days tbh but you can tell which parts are darkening and which aren't.

Here's the hatchet after the boiled linseed oil and blowtorching.....strange doesn't sum it up. Very colourful in real life.

AHH I see, I may try it then, cheers.

Had enough messing around and stuck this on.

Very happy with how it turned out. The feel and balance is superb. I sharpened it till it sliced paper easily then split a small log into kindling with it still sliced paper well after that so it seems like half decent steel. I put a tiny crack in the front of the wood when fitting the wedge so that's kind of heart breaking but I was just greedy with the angle. At least I know it'll be worth re hafting it this works loose again.

And as if that wasn't enough axe excitement this arrived....just tapped it on and obviously it's very high on the handle but it felt incredible. The handle is absolute beauty too, perfect grain, too good actually. I'll be feeling the pressure when it comes time to fit.

Oh and if anyone else is reading please feel free to chime in, even if it's just to let us know you're reading. Feels a bit like it's just myself and Neilneville using the forum like whatsapp 😉

Keep the pics coming. I've only ever rehung an axe once, it was a hugely rewarding experience. Sadly I seldom use an axe these days since I built my hydraulic log splitter.

Pfff. Artisan axes crate better holzhausen.... Maybe 🙂

Looks sweet jimjam. That hatchet handle has a lot of heart wood though, apparently axe handles are best from sap wood, no idea why. Felling axe handle does look a beauty!

Have been clearing trails the past two weeks. Each morning we just take a grinder to each axe head, pick axe and any other tool that needs a sharp edge. Does the trick. Only going to hit a stone at some point anyhow....

Looks sweet jimjam. That hatchet handle has a lot of heart wood though, apparently axe handles are best from sap wood, no idea why. Felling axe handle does look a beauty!

Thanks Neil. I believe sapwood is considered preferable for springiness, it makes the wood come alive apparently. Probably not relevant on such a small hatchet and I'd happily have it full red hickory heartwood as it looks so nice. The axe handle is lovely, I presume they picked it out especially as the grain is perfectly horizontal...tis a thing of beauty. I'm now wondering if it's too good for an old East German head. Or too good for me to make a balls of when fitting.

I recently picked up an axe in a charity shop. Looked well rough but the handle was obviously good quality so I picked it up for a fiver. Cleaned it up and its an Elwell felling axe. I reshaped and sharpened it on a belt sander held in a workmate, bit gentler than a grinder and doesn't get hot it you take your time.

I thought that someone had taken too much off the top of the blade as it curved back but having seen your felling axe jimjam it looks very similar.

I've just given it a clean and put it to use, the handle has a few gouges on it but i'm keeping it for now as its such a nice shape, it it gets worse i'll rehang it.

I have no clue how to post a pic now, and no buttons but i'll try later.

I would use that handle jimjam, unused its just a stick.

https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipMdJ1-f9rqde0sm1En-o4NXTUpZx9fq-qahAUxl

has that worked

I was thinking more along the lines of buying a vintage Gransfors or Wetterlings head for it, but I suppose the sentimental value will trump branding.

No pic sweepy.

i have no clue how to do quotes now so wont, sorry!

elwell, nice. this thread, and another elsewhere, has me watching ebay at the moment. 2 and 1/4 lb elwells seem to go for £20-£30 (head only), larger ones for half that. I fancy a 4.5 lber, just because...well...y0u know.

i suspect it is worn on the top from your description. the temper will go a long way back, far enough to recover the grind, if you have the time. I read a good instruction on how to fie it back from jst this situation just yesterday. I'll copy or link to it if you like. Be warned...a link will likely suck you in to a lot of 'wasted time' reading 30 or 40 pages of thread on axe restoration.

for google photos, I put the photo into an album that i set to share, copy the image address and paste between the img tags....sometimes it works!

jimjam, i like the sap/heart wood mix, it looks neat.

Very happy with how this wee hatchet turned out. I took it to work on Tuesday and did a decent amount of work with it de-limbing and trimming stuff for the chipper and it was a pleasure. Cut brilliantly and held an edge very very well. Which was good because this also happened...

i have no clue how to do quotes now so wont, sorry!

* in front of the piece of text, and *

Oh, buggerit! The sodding edit function is still screwed up!
It’s

before the text, and

*Really?*

Sodding hell! ☠️
(quote) before the text, replacing ( ) with [ ]
and (/quote) with [ ] instead of ( ).