Forum menu
Oh dear re the tea. Try the warm vinegar etch?
I was thinking Oak is full of tannins and hence iron stains it….a load of Oak saw chips in a stew of tea and vinegar…. That won’t smell great.
I'll post pics after a while. I might give it once more go in some fresh tea, after that I think I'll just order some gun blue, seems like least messy way to go about it.
It doesn't look too bad today. Quite a bit darker than yesterday, I guess removing it and cleaning it aided the process. I offered it up to the handle and it feels really good. I'll be jumping it on quite a bit more than this but thought I'd share
I cleaned up the edge a bit to see how it would contrast....hard to catch the light to show it though.
This is what I'm aiming for though, bit of a way to go yet.
That looks nice. I believe you are right, i think with any etching process you wipe off the black muck and keep going for a deeper etch.
I knocked the remaining stub of handle out my hatchet head. It had an odd fit (which I'm told suggests Scandinavian origin). The haft was glued or resined on! The eye is weirdly shaped, tapering and then flaring again as it goes through the head and the haft had 2-3mm of resin around it filling the flare, and no wedged Kerf. So I'll be filing the constriction in the eye away and fitting a haft as normal. Made a start and the steel is fairly hard, but it does cut with the round file so I should manage it in 20-30 mins.
neilnevillThat looks nice. I believe you are right, i think with any etching process you wipe off the black muck and keep going for a deeper etch.
Aye, seems to be going well today, although it's kind of random as to which parts seem to darken.
I knocked the remaining stub of handle out my hatchet head. It had an odd fit (which I’m told suggests Scandinavian origin). The haft was glued or resined on! The eye is weirdly shaped, tapering and then flaring again as it goes through the head and the haft had 2-3mm of resin around it filling the flare, and no wedged Kerf. So I’ll be filing the constriction in the eye away and fitting a haft as normal. Made a start and the steel is fairly hard, but it does cut with the round file so I should manage it in 20-30 mins.
Sounds weird, do you mean like a tomahawk fit? Post some pics up if you can.
I don't know what a tomahawk fit is.
This is a small axe/large hatchet, 700g according to the marking although I haven't weighed it, it's about the right size for that weight though. It had the epoxy resin filling the top of the eye over the end of the haft as many cheaper axes do, to seal the grain on the haft I assumed. I knocked the cut off haft out and found the epoxy was maybe 3mm thick in places around the haft as well. Cleaned it off and went to retrieve what I thought was a metal wedge to find it was just a bodged in nail and to find there was no Kerf and wooden wedge, no wedge at all! Confusing. Inspected the eye too see/ feel it constricts then widens again, quite a bit. I put a rule against the back of the eye, the constriction pushed it some 3 mm away from the back of the eye by the top. Clearly there is no way of getting a tight fit and wedging a haft on, the epoxy was to fill the gap left as the eye expanded again and secure the haft. Weird I know but as I say, I was given this head for free so I'm not fussed.
it was posted from Canada where it was bought at a garage sale by a guy that has a hobby restoring axes, and out there Scandinavian heads are very common, he's regularly picking up SAW or HB heads for $5-10. This head is unmarked (other than '700') but has clearly original blue paint and he reckons the epoxy is another sure sign it's Scandinavian. In good condition too, poll is unmarked bar one nick and cutting edge has minimal wear.
With a bit of time and care I should be able to file the eye to straight, then wedge it normally. We shall see.
Not sure if this image will post... its the remains of the handle (head just in frame o the left). as you can see it tapers rather, and the epoxy is thick!
Ohh it worked, good.
that's the head and the top of the haft, what i thought were mertal wedges were just nails, a bodged attempt to get a loosening head tight i guess.
a couple of picks of my only other rehanging work. My bison pickaroon
awful grain orientation, but a fair tight fit.
I keep meaning to buy a pickaroon, do you find it a big advantage if you're splitting? (especially if you have a sharp axe in your hand to lift up smallish logs). I can't see your other pics Neil, by tomahawk fit I meant like a pickaxe...if you get me. I think I'll give up on the tea patina. I've seen videos on youtube of people basically burning boiled linseed oil on to steel to give a black finish so I think that'll be may next effort. If it gets rid of some of this shitty toxic blo all the better.
I could see how the tea would work for either a new high carbon knife or axe head that was new or completely covered in rust but I've been working at both of mine and some parts take the patina and others just won't. More pics to follow.
I am sure someone else must have pointed this out but cutting geometry at some point becomes a compromise between sharpness and strength / longevity, so it is possible for something to be too sharp for its intended use.
I am sure someone else must have pointed this out but cutting geometry at some point becomes a compromise between sharpness and strength / longevity, so it is possible for something to be too sharp for its intended use.
Depends doesn't it. As it happens I put a shaving sharp edge on my Scandinavian forest axe last night (rock and roll indeed). Now, while it's not hard to do that it's also pretty pointless, once I de-limb a tree it won't shave anymore but it will still cut paper and stay that sharp for a long long time. So whatever the edge profile is on my GB axe, it's not compromising the edge to go a bit further and make it shaving sharp.
I like to do that purely as an excercise once every six months or so, more to take down the material on the cheeks and make sure the overall profile of the axe gets worked and reduced and not just the cutting edge.
Oh ffs', sharing from Google photos is so random....I put all photos in the same shared album, posted them here in the same way.... But 2 can't be seen except by me when logged into Google. It's always the same. I'll have another go later.
Ah a 'slide the haft in from the top' fit. It's not that, but they might work. There is a Spanish axe that hafts that way. It results in a narrow haft, probably too narrow with a small axe/hatchet.
As for the pickaroon, love it. I do most splitting with the X27 which at 5.7lb is heavy to use to pick rounds and is to wedged to stick anyway, the pickaroon is handy for shifting rounds about. I also have a dinky one, just a mortar pick I sharpened the point on, which I find great for picking splits.
Yeah saw that Basque axe on youtube. Looks great but I'd prefer an axe head that just stays on for some reason. The actual axe head and profile looks greats.Ah a ‘slide the haft in from the top’ fit. It’s not that, but they might work. There is a Spanish axe that hafts that way. It results in a narrow haft, probably too narrow with a small axe/hatchet.
right....
[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/SNlo2AgREKMg70aMnE4YZ63dTknrHVkys9ZzOVPoE99tuouLqFuEjB4snIVjcRssvJ3AzPoJ_uQa5YsLAIPZsYwoBt0lgwDiaoEg200y9rYOTUummSvxWZVUePnMwBNdywyXYqLimoyZrd9NSWD_G7itutgmNgS8n584Q0nSALG8tT70KvbNQB9u4G8iJ_1c8lqS0CeCtZIUq_0iGgpeurWt4BT_CRk0JKDS98u1_cdGPT1vh7gjBUbBiJ8NMTJu6iulFarZ6s6mYKmcXtXnePd9DIsoMVUKamN60fuEs-hRbdYu6kSXEJ7T1CWKjveduRHFMRT8BzDLvsX4AeKdqQ0vqPCMoLLEQX-ocqj7YEpKTx4HyNU3MOOZx2DGxRTz3S0hnEmNCLAzz99FHMgDrHJw6zQezC1ANjgI8A7x0C3OHbRcGSAL06GmSqsQi3tUNVHm96FrHW4eH4R0F3G3Lnf0kKiZkc39xCYp73rbbi2Qr9OMaWQkpjOIXiUMueXx0a4VdpluED5p4fT7D6GRmbDXGkUUizvCsdhNsCA1wjPB5wduIR6oGNRgHgFbnhcQg295A2EeyDxRAFk8z30ISuLFVmOMvKiupkDsmPOuF-PWsHb6wysnbU-j9koo2Ih0JvwSp8WSKw2jNnVUkT3ipGWCqPipiGX_=w1320-h990-no [/img]
and
[img] https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/f0dCJZL1BpYM6DxqQD9KAR28hGF1BduPSy1VDj6PACXpIAUV2uROGXdTlOUodhScctQ250U5NaNK4ZMa06wPSaQZwlCHtTYiHN7vzSbI4gDrGIrUko4ovd-5rBPbXQcH3jT_chxCna0RnasGbi6NI2eU3EOc3P2uW9akhPfXUOFwy-tPzpI1spPb35O7uq-hM3e-tHczM_9JIdqMxK3Y9clpGcz_M6CIPPAMia_0KXX0z5kXzhp4zK3eTvNT-OUC0QXpiUP71PoaUl5RWJioKg0TgbanISpezXDzQBCbBBHgX9LtZIZjigobfxxz45Wop8m2FbEdAthPyJH-lOF7a6xnbMgFWLwiQHNyFs0buBAm1riKOA84sz_aBwLn31e3yzGbJqU66iUUx7IdfK5efPVZW2Ezxx1PKw8iQxteBoM_7dIabVXhCuspOWkzxp9t9vYNje3q6UTJogL3Hw6nfglGhLsZZ4rghLzqp0IbMEOUdJHnjac9fY9h0m2bTi8PuPJwaYjN0n3Qnr5J12hzjl8VVVDcyq7AkgJKMVUHT8Nuxg13sIfpBgWxeZqt09RI4iSJ_JeUQIe8gSFcA7xqdHyqLZjlmvQV855z4ljaRun9YJZVEbPS6TGMUlZ8wU8FS_ThTYtXyDxDeTjrHnPXEsixk7CofpHb=w1320-h990-no [/img]
now to go see if i can see that on another device
😀
Nasty. Hopefully you can learn from my metalurgical misadventures when it comes to treating your axe head. I've given up on the tea and have been experimenting with boiled linseed oil and a blow torch. Strange results to say the least.
"Depends doesn’t it...."
Exactly, it is possible for it to be too sharp for intended use.
Yes it's odd isn't it! Since it was free I don't mind if it doesn't work out but I think there's a good chance I can file the restriction from the eye and make it fairly straight. Then I can wedge it normally.
Shame the tea didn't work out. I might just wire brush mine and oil it then.... If the remaining blue paint comes off or is no disaster. But first I'll sort the eye out.
Shame the tea didn’t work out. I might just wire brush mine and oil it then…. If the remaining blue paint comes off or is no disaster. But first I’ll sort the eye out.
I think it would work perfectly (apart from the bits of paint) for you since yours looks untouched. The tea / tannin seems to stick to rust very well and just won't seem to stick to other parts.
Here's what the hatchet head looked like after roughly a week
And here's the felling axe.
The hatchet looks better in the photo than it does in the metal as it's quite light across the middle of the head and the axe, as you can see didn't take very well at all. It was only a few days tbh but you can tell which parts are darkening and which aren't.
Here's the hatchet after the boiled linseed oil and blowtorching.....strange doesn't sum it up. Very colourful in real life.
AHH I see, I may try it then, cheers.
Had enough messing around and stuck this on.
Very happy with how it turned out. The feel and balance is superb. I sharpened it till it sliced paper easily then split a small log into kindling with it still sliced paper well after that so it seems like half decent steel. I put a tiny crack in the front of the wood when fitting the wedge so that's kind of heart breaking but I was just greedy with the angle. At least I know it'll be worth re hafting it this works loose again.
And as if that wasn't enough axe excitement this arrived....just tapped it on and obviously it's very high on the handle but it felt incredible. The handle is absolute beauty too, perfect grain, too good actually. I'll be feeling the pressure when it comes time to fit.
Oh and if anyone else is reading please feel free to chime in, even if it's just to let us know you're reading. Feels a bit like it's just myself and Neilneville using the forum like whatsapp 😉
Keep the pics coming. I've only ever rehung an axe once, it was a hugely rewarding experience. Sadly I seldom use an axe these days since I built my hydraulic log splitter.
Pfff. Artisan axes crate better holzhausen.... Maybe 🙂
Looks sweet jimjam. That hatchet handle has a lot of heart wood though, apparently axe handles are best from sap wood, no idea why. Felling axe handle does look a beauty!
Have been clearing trails the past two weeks. Each morning we just take a grinder to each axe head, pick axe and any other tool that needs a sharp edge. Does the trick. Only going to hit a stone at some point anyhow....
Looks sweet jimjam. That hatchet handle has a lot of heart wood though, apparently axe handles are best from sap wood, no idea why. Felling axe handle does look a beauty!
Thanks Neil. I believe sapwood is considered preferable for springiness, it makes the wood come alive apparently. Probably not relevant on such a small hatchet and I'd happily have it full red hickory heartwood as it looks so nice. The axe handle is lovely, I presume they picked it out especially as the grain is perfectly horizontal...tis a thing of beauty. I'm now wondering if it's too good for an old East German head. Or too good for me to make a balls of when fitting.
I recently picked up an axe in a charity shop. Looked well rough but the handle was obviously good quality so I picked it up for a fiver. Cleaned it up and its an Elwell felling axe. I reshaped and sharpened it on a belt sander held in a workmate, bit gentler than a grinder and doesn't get hot it you take your time.
I thought that someone had taken too much off the top of the blade as it curved back but having seen your felling axe jimjam it looks very similar.
I've just given it a clean and put it to use, the handle has a few gouges on it but i'm keeping it for now as its such a nice shape, it it gets worse i'll rehang it.
I have no clue how to post a pic now, and no buttons but i'll try later.
I would use that handle jimjam, unused its just a stick.
https://photos.google.com/search/_tra_/photo/AF1QipMdJ1-f9rqde0sm1En-o4NXTUpZx9fq-qahAUxl
has that worked
I was thinking more along the lines of buying a vintage Gransfors or Wetterlings head for it, but I suppose the sentimental value will trump branding.
No pic sweepy.
i have no clue how to do quotes now so wont, sorry!
elwell, nice. this thread, and another elsewhere, has me watching ebay at the moment. 2 and 1/4 lb elwells seem to go for £20-£30 (head only), larger ones for half that. I fancy a 4.5 lber, just because...well...y0u know.
i suspect it is worn on the top from your description. the temper will go a long way back, far enough to recover the grind, if you have the time. I read a good instruction on how to fie it back from jst this situation just yesterday. I'll copy or link to it if you like. Be warned...a link will likely suck you in to a lot of 'wasted time' reading 30 or 40 pages of thread on axe restoration.
for google photos, I put the photo into an album that i set to share, copy the image address and paste between the img tags....sometimes it works!
jimjam, i like the sap/heart wood mix, it looks neat.
Very happy with how this wee hatchet turned out. I took it to work on Tuesday and did a decent amount of work with it de-limbing and trimming stuff for the chipper and it was a pleasure. Cut brilliantly and held an edge very very well. Which was good because this also happened...
i have no clue how to do quotes now so wont, sorry!
You just put *
* after, leaving out the * and no spaces.* in front of the piece of text, and *
Oh, buggerit! The sodding edit function is still screwed up!
It’s
before the text, and
after it.
*Really?*
Sodding hell! ☠️
(quote) before the text, replacing ( ) with [ ]
and (/quote) with [ ] instead of ( ).
And breathe...😡
fiskars will warranty the billhook I would think. I've only ever heard good things about their warranty.
That's interesting. I hate the bloody thing so no real loss if they don't.
I am so happy with how this turned out.
That is very fine work, lovely tool!
Thanks Neil. If nothing else it'll stave off the need to buy another Gransfors Bruks, at least for a while 🤔
You need projects.... Beside my axe head I have a box full of bits they once were a ms660. Once that's done the 038avs might get some love. That'll be about 2027 then.
neilnevillYou need projects…. .
And luckily I have two more axe projects on the back burner. I mentioned it back there but I just like to stress it again, I have a spare 29" hickory handle thanks to excellent customer service from http://woodsmithexperience.co.uk/ . If anyone is thinking of buying an axe and is maybe considering spending £30 - £50 on something off the shelf it might be worth considering doing something like this, and if you don't want to do it yourself woodsmith experience will do it for you for £12. There are loads of old heads on ebay, or gathering dust in sheds or in auctions and second hand shops. That handle cost £19 and is really as good as it gets, is almost infinitely customiseable and potentially very special. Caveats if you're a professional user, but I am and I love wood handled axes.
Beside my axe head I have a box full of bits they once were a ms660. Once that’s done the 038avs might get some love. That’ll be about 2027 then
What's the going rate for a rebuild round your way? My mate was quoted £330 for a new piston/cylinder in his ms 150T.
An 038 you say? I highly rated saw. I've got a bid on an 038 Magnum, 71cc of retro saw. They don't make 'em like they used to
No idea what it would cost to get built, I for it to build it. It's all there and fine. Most is a 2014 saw that had the clutch let go and trashed the bottom end, the bottom end is from another saw, feels ok but I'll part the case and replace the bearings probably. Rest the saw is good, although piston had gone to another saw so I got a meteor but for a deal, got it at cost basically. If I build it myself, by the time I've bought a 25" b+c I'll have about £325 in it.
The Magnum is the daddy, mines the super, 67cc. Runs ok but isn't perfect, some Muppet has damaged the spark plug thread and ballsed it by badly helicoiling it. I've currently got it sealed by adding a 1.5mm thick sealing washer to the plug. I want to repair it properly. If you want rebuild tips, if you get that Magnum pm me and I'll link you up with some guys on the opeforum, one has rebuilt several Magnums and is tackling some mild porting.